Slight Tap in Front Cylinder - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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Slight Tap in Front Cylinder

Hi there. After pulling and cleaning my carbs out, I brought my 93 750 back to life. Now I am noticing a slight tap in my front cylinder. Performance is not hindered, but I am noticing the RPM's like to fluctuate at idle, one minute at 1100 rpm, the next minute at 2000 rpm. Does this sound familiar to anyone. Other than doing the carb cleaning I did nothing else except change the plugs and the oil (the tap was there before changing the oil)
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 09:39 AM
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Is it a gradual increase and decrease or is it a sudden swing on the needle? Is the engine actually reving up, or is the tach indicating something the engine is not doing?

This tap, is it sudden and rapid or slow, etc? Was this tap before you changed the plugs as well?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsuredDisaster
Is it a gradual increase and decrease or is it a sudden swing on the needle? Is the engine actually reving up, or is the tach indicating something the engine is not doing?

This tap, is it sudden and rapid or slow, etc? Was this tap before you changed the plugs as well?
The RPM increase/decrease happens all of the sudden, the engine is actually reving up.

The tap doesn't sound like it is consistent with the engine, it seems slower than the rpm's. At higher speeds I don't hear it, at idle and low speeds I do. The tap didnt start till a few days after cleaning the carbs, the plugs were changed a few days before cleaning the carbs. The tap and the idle problem happend all at once while sitting at a light the other day and hasn't went away.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 05:43 PM
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Could the tapping be an air leak that you're hearing and not a tapping at all? Vacuum leaks can cause eratic idle, and sometimes vacuum leaks make strange noises.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2006, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Good news now and yet another question

Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy
Could the tapping be an air leak that you're hearing and not a tapping at all? Vacuum leaks can cause eratic idle, and sometimes vacuum leaks make strange noises.
I checked all the vacuum lines all good.

Now for the good news. This morning I went checked the air/fuel screw, set it to 2 and quarter turns. Still had the tap.

Then went to walmart and picked up some rotella synthetic and a oil filter. Changed the oil and filter, took it for a drive, and now I don't hear the tap...hmmm.

Now for an odd question. Per the yahoo groups tech page I used the walmart supertech st7317 oil filter. It spins on great and has a good seal, but the diameter is a bit smaller than the old filter that was on it (a fram). Now while reading The Vulcan Verses here, they say its ok.

WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH THE EARLIER AND LATER FILTERS ?
The filter for the later models (95 and up) is a smaller diameter and shorter. The only difference is the physical size. It will work fine on the older models. Mating surface identical. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Honda did the same thing with their filters (same filters as Kaw uses). The large filter is specified for the earlier years, and the smaller one is specified for the later years. The smaller one is used on Gold Wings and sport bikes due to space limitations under the plastic. Some dealers only stock the small one and say it has replaced the large one


I just want to make sure I'm not going to screw up my bike. I did take it on a test drive and no oil leaks at all. Before I go on a trip tomorrow can someone verify I am ok? If not, which filter should I get (preferably from the auto store since I live close to one). Mine is the older filter type, its a 93 vulcan 750.

Now for the last question. When I cleaned my carbs last weekend, some of my coolant did drain out while taking off the hoses to get to the carbs. AFter that my coolant gauge quite working. The yellow wire to the thermostat is attached and in good condition... Any clues on what I did?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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possible problem?

Out of curiosity I did a test with my bike yesterday. At 55 my rpm is 4000. Sounds a bit too high, I also get some pretty bad vibration. Any clues on what could cause this? I have cleaned the carbs, using rotella synthetic, changed the plugs, no earshave and the vent hose is cut at 45 degrees. The weather here is in the 90's. Also yesterday after traveling around 50 miles in the heat when I was coming to my parking spot the main fuse blew, I replaced it and it did not blow again... Help????
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006, 09:49 PM
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RPMs sound OK. Is there vibration if you are in neutral, stopped? How about if you are in gear, with clutch in, stopped? If not there, then might be related to drivetrain or tires.

I've heard of other people losing the main fuse, but no one has ever posted why. At least none that I've read about.

Seems like a lot of people have had trouble with the 93 and 94 year models. Not just our forum, either. All sorts of random glitches. Maybe the guys in Nebraska were partying too much those years.

2000 A16
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cegodsey
RPMs sound OK. Is there vibration if you are in neutral, stopped? How about if you are in gear, with clutch in, stopped? If not there, then might be related to drivetrain or tires.

I've heard of other people losing the main fuse, but no one has ever posted why. At least none that I've read about.

Seems like a lot of people have had trouble with the 93 and 94 year models. Not just our forum, either. All sorts of random glitches. Maybe the guys in Nebraska were partying too much those years.
No severe vibration in neutral or in gear with cluth in at a stop. Vibration comes on about 50mph. Tires are in awesome condition, but will check the splines and final drive tomorrow.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2006, 02:09 AM
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While you've got it up on its center stand, get on it, start it, AND WITH THE FRONT BRAKE ON, get the rpms up to about 4K - 5K with it in 5th gear. If the vibration is there, then you have ruled out the front tire. Of course, it could be related to the suspension, which will only present itself when riding.

Make sure you got that front brake on. I don't wanna read in the paper where some guy was testing his bike on the centerstand, and it jumped off the stand and the guy ran through the door of his garage. BETTER YET, get the annoying guy down the street on it, and don't tell him about using the front brake. Make sure you video tape it.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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All fixed Now= Manual Cam tensioner

All is better now with the bike. The tap did come back and was the ACCT after all. I ordered the manual cam tensioner off ebay from Victory Lane Motorsports. Since the guy was local to me, we cut a deal where I picked up a part for him and he delivered the manual cam tensioner to my front door this morning. It only took about 15 minutes to put in and adjust. The bike sounds sweet now.

The vibration I found out was from my windshield and me hearing every noise the bike made. When I took off the windshield, cruising at 60 felt way better. Yesterday I rode an older honda silverwing, and I will tell you the Vulcan feels way smoother.

The only quirks I have to work out now is my temperature gauge, it quit working when I did my carbs. The wire is connected to the thermostat housing, but it looks corroded.

Also need to adjust the shocks to my liking, since they are bit to stiff.
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