Oil Question. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Question.

Hey All-

I have read the verses and it appears that plenty of people are saying that normal synthetic motor oil is ok for use on our motorcycles.. I plan on changing my oil every 1 to 2k for a while while using sea foam to clean it up as much as possible. I have noticed a considerable price difference vs the two types of oil. I don't want to start a huge debate just wanted to make sure I wasn't hurting anything on this almost 18year old bike by using normal oil.

Thanks all

Jay
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 06:34 PM
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I use Castrol GTX 10W-40 and Purlator PL-14610 filter and change both at 3K miles like clockwork.

I am not against synthetics, just don't see the need for them if you change at 3K miles.

I've put 10's of thousands of miles on many different vehicles using Castrol GTX.

Just my $ 0.02.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 06:44 PM
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If the oil came out of the new-to-you scoot looking really dirty on the first oil change, you could try doing one or two oil and filter changes at thousand mile intervals to flush the rest of the dirt out of the engine.

After that, oil changes at 3k miles with conventional or synthetic oil is sufficient.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. So to be absolutely clear, by saying conventional oil you mean normal motor oil.. like 10w40? So neither of you actually pay the extra cash for
'motorcycle' oil?? The trade of here being you should do your oil and filter change like clockwork every 2 to 3k..

OlHossCanda - I am doing exactly what you recommended actually.. The only difference is I will add some sea foam for extra cleaning. But the plan is every 1k for 2 or 3 changes.

Thoughts?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 09:41 PM
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You want to avoid the XW-20 and XW-30 weights as these are "Energy Conserving" are not recommended for M/Cs' because they contain "friction modifiers" (moly, additives) which can affect the operation and longevity of the "wet clutch".

Jon

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Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 09:50 PM
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If you haven't changed the old oil, and it doesn't look like chocolate syrup, just add some Sea Foam to that oil, ride bike for 1/2 hour, and change the oil and filter. Put 3,000 miles on the bike, add some Sea Foam ride for 1/2 hour and change oil and filter. No need for additional Sea Foam in the oil.

You shouldn't need to change the oil before 3,000 miles or add Sea Foam to a clean engine that is getting regular oil changes. Two Sea Foam treatments should be sufficient to clean the engine. Keep in mind that SF thins out the oil.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:00 PM
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I use synthetic (Rotella T6) in my trucks and the VN750. The main reason is that I like to go 5000 miles on the bike, and 10,000 or 1 year with the trucks, between changes. I would have used a conventional oil for the bike, but the oil pump would lose its prime with anything under 10w when cold. My 4.6L V-8 is burning 1 quart every 1500 miles now, but not bad considering it towed Bobcats around for 100,000 miles. I have 217,002 on it as of today. Sorry to go off topic.
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