oil drain plug - broke it - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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oil drain plug - broke it

My first oil change went well earlier this year, but today I managed to break the oil drain plug. Fortunately I was able to remove the half that was still in the engine; i.e. the threaded half. It looks like no damage other than the plug.
Earlier I just used a wrench and tightened it.
Today I figured I would be extra perfect and attempted to use a torque wrench. But it is extremely difficult to get a socket on the plug, due to the stand and frame. I'm guessing it wasn't on exactly right and too much torque was applied, and the plug snapped off.

Anyway, where is a good place to get a replacement. Others done this before?

Also, the filter I installed today has a diameter slightly less than the mounting plate. Is this ok? The filter was mentioned in the Vulcan Verses.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 06:14 PM
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Filter diameter less than the size of the mounting plate ok? Yes, as long as it's a good fit, there's no leakage, etc. But whatever you do - if there is leakage, HAND TIGHTEN only. If there is still leakage after that, you either need to take it off and wet the seal with a little oil and put back on, or get a different filter. I use a Mobile 1 110 I think it is.

As far as the drain plug, I would first check a local junk yard if you have one, if not there, then Ace hardware, if not there, then check eBay. Of course I'm sure there might be someone on here who might even have one. Oh, you could always check a local craigslist for anyone parting out bikes too.

Good luck, and remember that you don't need to - in fact you shouldn't torque the drain plug bolt.

Take care and ride safe : )

PS - oh, and one more thing : always use the correct-sized open end or socket wrench on any bolts or nuts such as this. Rounding is very common issue, and though you were fortunate enough to get the other piece out this time, you may not get so lucky in the future. A good set of metric sockets and/or open end wrenches will save you a lot of money and headache in the future ; )


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Last edited by AZ Kev; 10-18-2011 at 06:17 PM. Reason: added content
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 07:27 PM
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Question for you. Why not use the oil drain on the lower left side of the engine or is that the one your talking about. There is a screen inside that can be pulled out to see if there is any excessive metal from the internal parts of your engine. Maybe could diagnose a engine problem early. There is the cap/spring/washer/filter screen.

As far as the oil filter I go to the auto parts store and use a FRAM PH6017A. Alot cheeper then the $15 one I used to get from the kaw dealer.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 08:29 PM
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Yes, which drain plug did you break?
The one on the bottom of the engine case? Bad boy! Plug it and never touch it again!!

If it was the proper drain plug on the lower left side, that is a Kaw part that will have to come off a donor bike or get a new one.
#11012 in the diagram here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...m4555#sch50086

Here is a link to info on motorcycle oil filters:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html

I use Wally World ST-7317 filters which cost less than $3, but are rated a good second choice after Pure One, Mobile 1 and Bosch in the above link.

Fram oil filters have gotten a bad reputation for failure on just about every MC and automotive forum I have visited in the past 3 years. I have used Fram in the past w/o any problem on cars and p/u trucks, but would avoid them now just because I don`t really trust them anymore.

Quote from above link:
Quote:
Oil Filters come basically in three qualities. Very good, with excellent filtration; normal; and really incredibly bad. This last category, really incredibly bad, should obviously be avoided. Accordingly, never use a Fram, Pennzoil, Penske, Castrol, or Quaker State oil filter in any motor you like. All of these filters are made by Fram. The filter element itself is a normal paper element, and probably no better or worse than anyone else's paper element. However, the end caps on the filter element are made of cardboard in these filters. There are numerous stories of these cardboard end caps getting saturated with oil and coming apart, putting little cardboard fragments directly into the oil flow into your engine bearings. As they say in GhostBusters, this "would be bad." Personally, I don't consider cardboard a suitable material for my engine internals. In the interests of fairness, below I reproduce a letter from Fram to me.

Gordon

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.
Yea, I broke the left side plug, and found the part at cheap cycle parts, #11012, as you noted.
I also used the ST-7317 filter, which is slightly less diameter than the mounting flange.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 12:42 AM
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Cheap cycle parts is probably your best bet for the side plug, unless someone here has one. You don't see them come up much on ebay.

"Show me a man who makes no mistakes, and I'll show you a man who doesn't do things." Theodore Roosevelt."

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 01:46 PM
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First of all FRAM filters and any filter made by them are BAD Not only will you wind up with cardboard in your engine, but these filters have been known to plug up completely, cutting off all oil flow to the engine, with the expected result.

I don't know why there is a drain bolt in the bottom of the engine, I guess it is just another VN750 mystery. But don't use it, the bolt is threaded directly into the aluminum cases, and if you strip the threads, you're up the creek. Big time.

There is no need to use a torque wrench on the side drain plug. It seals with an 0-ring. I use a box end wrench on it, with a piece of blue cloth/paper shop towel between the wrench and plug, to prevent cosmetic damage to the plug, and because the correct size wrench feels just a bit loose on it.

As for oil filters, let the confusion begin. Aside from not using any of the above brands, I have found quite a few part numbers of the same brand of filter (Emgo) that supposedly fit the Vulcan 750. I get my Emgo filters from DK, and use Emgo part# 1024420 on my Vulcan 750. I used part# 1082230 on my recently departed '09 Ninja 500. Heres where it gets weird. After selling my Ninja, I realized I still had a couple of brand new oil filters for it. I did a cross reference, and found that filter also fits a '94 Vulcan 750, but only the '94. Now, as far as I know, Vulcan 750s have been the same from the beginning to the end. I do know about the filter change by Kawasaki, I never knew why, but both filters still fit all years. So I am assuming that a filter designed to fit a '94 will also fit my '02. At least I am planning to use them.

Do you have a name brand or part number for the filter you used?

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 06:46 PM
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The filter should be slightly smaller than the mounting base....as slight larger would cause leak.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 12:32 AM
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I broke the ACC cap on mine and had to order it from Kaw. It torques at 13 ft lbs,

2000 VN 750
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