Engine has a knock - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Engine has a knock

I just rescently got my 2001 kawasaki vulcan running after it being down for three months. When I finally got it running again it had a knock coming from the rear cylinder. I have no lose of power and no hesitation on the throttle. The only difference in how it runs it the idle drops to about 5-600 rps instead of about 1000-1100 once it finally warms up. I am thinking it is nothing more than my engine running lean due to gunk in the carbs due to sitting for three months without being started. You guys have helped me out before so I am turning to you guys for help once again.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 11:01 AM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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If you haven't already, either modify your ACCTs to manual, or just buy some manual ones. I had a knock in the front cylinder and it was a loose tensioner. The loose cam chain seemed to affect idle on mine.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Next questions 1) How do I do that and 2) does it require an engine pull

Sorry still new to working on bikes.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 11:33 AM
Crap, I WAS in 5th gear.
 
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Manual Cam Chain Tensioners

Start with the Vulcan Verses (do a search.) And then search for manual cam chain tensioner. It's an easy mod, no engine removal. You will want to buy the pre-made ones if you don't have much mechanical experience. Also, you will have to cut the rear tensioner bolt down to clear the coolant reservoir.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 11:46 AM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goobie006 View Post
Next questions 1) How do I do that and 2) does it require an engine pull

Sorry still new to working on bikes.
Nope, no engine pull. Not a hard fix but in the meantime, to see if it is the tensioner, remove the cap screw on the end of it and turn the litlle slotted screw in there. You should feel some spring tension in it whe you do. Let it spring back and see if that helps free it up. It might just be hung up from sitting. Search "grambo" trick and you'll find posts with pictures to help you. This is very common on these bikes. Also, you should turn the black idle screw on the left side under the carbs clockwise until you idle at 1100 again. If whatever is causing it to idle low clears up then she'll start revving and you can turn it back down then, but idling low is not good for these bikes. Good luck.

Dave

Mods:
Jetted, shaved & coastered
Home made under-tank single filter
Converted ACCT's to manual (thanks wib714)
Dual vac lines on petcock (my cure for ticking)
LED tail/plate lights
Relocated helmet lock to license plate

Added stuff:
Customized hard bags w/ lights
Chrome levers
Hellcat windscreen
LED running lights
Home made 'Vita-Volt' meter
Foot rests on engine guard
Tunes

Hmm....she was on the back when we left.... ??
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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I am guessing that if this is the problem then it will only cause major damage if it goes unchecked for long periods of time or if I really dog the hell out of my engine?
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly2001 View Post
Also, you will have to cut the rear tensioner bolt down to clear the coolant reservoir.
I managed to get a 30mm allen head bold in there without any cutting. The knurled head makes it turnable by hand against the bonded sealing washer too. The coolant overflow tank rests against the bolt head, but there are no sharp edges and I used a lock washer with a longer bolt to firmly reattach the tank. Some have also heated the overflow tank and molded it ever so slightly around their tensioner bolts.

If it ain't broke... well I'm sure I can find something that is
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 03:51 PM
If only it had 6th gear..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goobie006 View Post
I am guessing that if this is the problem then it will only cause major damage if it goes unchecked for long periods of time or if I really dog the hell out of my engine?
well I've redlined mine fairly regularly before I converted them to manual. They weren't 'bust outa the block' noisey but they definitely made me embarassed when it idled lol.

do the grambo trick first if you're worried. people have good luck with that. then keep in the back of your mind about looking into replacing the tensioners or converting them to manual. Also, one guy here just tightened that little screw I mentioned and drilled a hole in the side putting another screw in that way to hold it. Check out member Wib 714's thread 'my acct to mcct conversion and about the 3rd page in you'll see what I'm talkin about. Might be an option for you. Had I seen that I would have done the same thing (althoiugh with a much shorter screw) but I had already torn mine apart. Peace

Dave

Mods:
Jetted, shaved & coastered
Home made under-tank single filter
Converted ACCT's to manual (thanks wib714)
Dual vac lines on petcock (my cure for ticking)
LED tail/plate lights
Relocated helmet lock to license plate

Added stuff:
Customized hard bags w/ lights
Chrome levers
Hellcat windscreen
LED running lights
Home made 'Vita-Volt' meter
Foot rests on engine guard
Tunes

Hmm....she was on the back when we left.... ??
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 09:25 PM
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Garage
My chain got real noisey at the first of summer with the heat coming on. Spring 10 years old will loose their tention and won't tighten as needed. They won't back off any though. I bought a new spring kit from TOC that came with a tention holding key for reinstalation, 2 springs, and new O-rings for both tentioners. Seems like it was around $20. That Baby is quit now, was really load before when the engine was cold.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 11:57 AM
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Well the Gambo trick on the ACCT's finally quit working and the VN750 was getting a bit loud, especially when she was cold. so I thought about doing a conversion to manuals, but I had some stripped threads on one of ACCT caps. With that option out the door, I ordered some replacement springs from TOC. The springs were about 15% larger or so that the OEM's and really didn't take long to replace. I didn't order their key that is needed to preload the ACCTs, but made one myself out of some sheet metal scrap that I had. The key is a must as the springs must be wound and the plunger retracted as the ACCT's are reinstalled. So it you can't make one, you will need a grinder and a thin cut-off wheel, get theirs. All in all, took me about an hour to do the job.

The result was great. Really quiet now, no chain slap, knock or rattle when cold or hot, at any rpm. Good $20 investment, springs only. The complete kit, o-rings, springs and key is $35.
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