VN750 Engine Rebuild Videos - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
the exhaust. If it has to do with the cooling,
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post #21 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 06:31 PM
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Awesome Roach!! Thanks a bunch for part 3!! I would never have thought to use oven cleaner. You make all this look so simple. Dunno if it's just that your engine is in better condition than mine or what. Mine has just been badly abused, so everything on the teardown has been a fight and I'm being super patient with it, so as to salvage what I can.

New rider/mechanic of '85 VN700 Vulcan. (25k miles)

Link to bike restoration blog:
http://trailofthewolf.blogspot.com/s...%20Restoration
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post #22 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolflrv View Post
Thanks for the link! I'll probably try the Kroil and also another product Freeze-off, if the nut splitter won't get in there..I got the smallest splitter I could find, but it's gonna be tight on clearance. I really hate to cut them off with a Dremel and all 4 are in same condition. Doesn't seem to be rust so much, as probably seized from heat or severe over-tightening. I plan to replace both the studs and the nuts when I do the rebuild.
Try a 50/50 mix of Automatic transmission fluid and acetone. It has been proven in laboratory tests to work much better than Kroil, PB, and all the others. I can tell you that it works.

JM2001

" Loud Pipes Risk Rights "

2001 Vulcan 750
marbled
TOC upgrade on ACCT
Air/fuel mixture set to 2 1/2 out
rectifier relocated
splines lubed
iridiums
decals removed
upgraded mirrors
Pic up coil mod done
degoated
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Upgraded Mosfet rectifier
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post #23 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolflrv View Post
Awesome Roach!! Thanks a bunch for part 3!! I would never have thought to use oven cleaner. You make all this look so simple. Dunno if it's just that your engine is in better condition than mine or what. Mine has just been badly abused, so everything on the teardown has been a fight and I'm being super patient with it, so as to salvage what I can.
Mine has pretty low mileage so it wouldn't suprise me if other engines were a lot worse off. I ended up using the razor blade on the valves quite a bit also. I think they are hard enought steel that it won't hurt them.

The video editing probably makes it look more simple than it is. I don't film things like scrubbing parts as it doesn't add much value.

Street
1985 VN750 Acquired Feb, 2011 - 13,676km
Mods - Ear Shave, Pickup Coil Gap, Drilled Clutch Basket, Shift Tie Rod, Mosfet R/R, MF Battery, De-Goated (H-Pipe), MCCT, Heated Grips, Plexistar 2 Windshield

Dirt
2004 KTM SX 125 - 1979 Can-Am Qualifier 250 - 1971 Kawasaki F6

Video Tutorials - Engine Rebuild - Fork Seal Replacement - Grease Swing Arm Bearings - Carb Rebuild - Spline Lube - Refilling Rear Shocks - Grease Steering Bearings
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post #24 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 10:07 PM
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I'm waiting on a 18mm x 1.5mm bolt to remove the flywheel. So it'll be a couple days before I get to the crank case.
Excellent videos Roach.

My local Case/International farm dealership says they stock a 18mm X 1.5mm by 50 or 60mm long bolt that you can use to remove the rotor/flywheel. If you are located near farm country you can pick one up locally too for about $10-12, the same as I have seen them on ebay. Just check the kaw manual or ebay to see what length you need. I`m sure 60mm is long enough.

I like your method of bagging the valves, springs and related hardware for each valve. I have also used the cardboard template to keep bolts in order.

You don`t show how you are keeping the other parts separated and in order.
I will make a few suggestions for newbies with little or no wrenching experience.

Collect any old bread baking pans, muffin tins, cookies sheets or other large and shallow metal cookie/candy containers with or w/o lids, to keep parts in.

2nd choices are assorted sizes of cardboard boxes, cut off 1 gal plastic bottles, etc. will all be useful for storage and organization.

Egg containers are good for keeping small parts in order as the engine is dismantled. If you can find them, a few large plastic flats that hold 2 1/2 dozen eggs stand up better to use in the garage than the cardboard or styrofoam cartons.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
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F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
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post #25 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 11:29 PM
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This gets my vote for Thread of the Year!! Excellent!

What did you use to produce the video/ Web cam, video camera? What video editor?
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post #26 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 08:03 AM
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Thx for the tip on the ATF/acetone. I may try that too. I did find a can of the Freeze-Off...but the nuts just laughed all the harder! My nut splitter set should be here this afternoon and I really hope it does the trick. It's as much a problem of no way to get any torque to the nut, as it is corrosion, so the nut splitter stands the best chance of getting it off, if I can get enough clearance to get it in there. I've already tried about 4 diff sizes/styles of vicegrips, a pair of vice style channel locks, banged on it good with open wrench and hammer, etc. I get absolutely no budge whatsoever. On most of the stubborn nuts and such, if I can get a socket on there, I use an old worn-out torque wrench as my breaker bar. It works very well.

The problem with my bike is that I can tell, due to missing parts and gaskets, that someone at least partially tore down this bike(not my brother) and then decided to quit and then just put it back together, skipping gaskets and several parts. It seems they then must have run the engine at some point and it leaked like crazy as evidenced by the very thick oil buildup all over the engine. It then sat outside for an unknown time under a carport, then finally sat for a couple more years in the back of my brother's barn/shop. It's not a complete basket bike..but close. For what's it's worth though, I'd still rather start from this point for free(brother gave me the bike) and build a nice custom ride of my own for a couple of grand, than just go sink the same money into something that would still potentially have issues and wouldn't be nearly as custom and mine.

As to bagging, tagging and organizing...I'll try and get a shot of my setup and post sometime today. I agree with OlHoss, not only do I bag and tag, but I organize each set of parts, into boxes(tons of amazon shipping boxes) and tubs. I have big containers for the bigger parts and for the engine, I bought some cheap kitty litter pans to keep everything sorted in. I line the bottoms with shop rags and will wrap parts to keep them from scratching or bumping together.

As to cleaning and such...scotchbrite pads, sandpaper, various buffing/sanding wheels with air tools and also bench grinder, my fav find so far has been a product called Evapo-Rust. It works great and is non-hazardous. I plan to use it on my gas tank and will soak many other parts with it too. I've also got various spray cleaners and a bucket of Chem-Dip w/basket. I'll definitely be adding oven cleaner to the arsenal as well!

I'm really glad that Roach is taking the extra time and effort to document this teardown and hopefully the rebuild too..(hint, hint!!). Salute!!

New rider/mechanic of '85 VN700 Vulcan. (25k miles)

Link to bike restoration blog:
http://trailofthewolf.blogspot.com/s...%20Restoration
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post #27 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
Excellent videos Roach.

My local Case/International farm dealership says they stock a 18mm X 1.5mm by 50 or 60mm long bolt that you can use to remove the rotor/flywheel. If you are located near farm country you can pick one up locally too for about $10-12, the same as I have seen them on ebay. Just check the kaw manual or ebay to see what length you need. I`m sure 60mm is long enough.
Thanks.

I bought mine at the local Bolt Supply House. They didn't stock it, but it was here in a couple days. $7.00.

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Originally Posted by OlHossCanada View Post
You don`t show how you are keeping the other parts separated and in order.
I used the same method for everything. I bought a pack of small and large zip-lock bags. I've just been writing a description of the parts on the bags before filling them. Each section of the engine get's it's own cardboard box.

I think I'll start doing what kc_matt suggested and add the corresponding service manual page number to the bags.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VoIP Doc
What did you use to produce the video/ Web cam, video camera? What video editor?
I'm using a Kodak Playsport as the camera. It's a great little handheld unit. It's sitting on a flexible tripod.

I'm using Windows Live Movie Maker on my little netbook. I have to record on the lowest setting as the netbook doesn't have enough processing power for editing the high def stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolflrv
I'm really glad that Roach is taking the extra time and effort to document this teardown and hopefully the rebuild too..(hint, hint!!). Salute!!
Yeah, I plan on documenting the entire build.

It's not that much extra work to record what I'm doing. I find it forces me to take my time, and that is a good thing.

I know how much I've relied on YouTube videos in the past. It makes a huge difference if you can watch someone (even if they are not doing everything properly).

Street
1985 VN750 Acquired Feb, 2011 - 13,676km
Mods - Ear Shave, Pickup Coil Gap, Drilled Clutch Basket, Shift Tie Rod, Mosfet R/R, MF Battery, De-Goated (H-Pipe), MCCT, Heated Grips, Plexistar 2 Windshield

Dirt
2004 KTM SX 125 - 1979 Can-Am Qualifier 250 - 1971 Kawasaki F6

Video Tutorials - Engine Rebuild - Fork Seal Replacement - Grease Swing Arm Bearings - Carb Rebuild - Spline Lube - Refilling Rear Shocks - Grease Steering Bearings
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post #28 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 02:27 PM
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http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...-organization/

As promised here's a link to a few photos of my shop and organization method. It's a nice place to work on the bike. The bigger bins look a bit rough, but most of those parts are easily identifiable and I only bagged and tagged the smaller bits.

I also included a couple of photos at the end, to show evidence of the lack of gaskets on this bike. I'll know more for sure once I get these stupid nuts off..but I can't see any gaskets at all.

New rider/mechanic of '85 VN700 Vulcan. (25k miles)

Link to bike restoration blog:
http://trailofthewolf.blogspot.com/s...%20Restoration
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post #29 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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1985 Kawasaki Vulcan Engine Rebuilt - pt.4

Street
1985 VN750 Acquired Feb, 2011 - 13,676km
Mods - Ear Shave, Pickup Coil Gap, Drilled Clutch Basket, Shift Tie Rod, Mosfet R/R, MF Battery, De-Goated (H-Pipe), MCCT, Heated Grips, Plexistar 2 Windshield

Dirt
2004 KTM SX 125 - 1979 Can-Am Qualifier 250 - 1971 Kawasaki F6

Video Tutorials - Engine Rebuild - Fork Seal Replacement - Grease Swing Arm Bearings - Carb Rebuild - Spline Lube - Refilling Rear Shocks - Grease Steering Bearings
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post #30 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 07:10 PM
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Cool!! You're way ahead of me now..but keep 'em comin'! I'll catch up if UPS ever gets here with this tool!!

New rider/mechanic of '85 VN700 Vulcan. (25k miles)

Link to bike restoration blog:
http://trailofthewolf.blogspot.com/s...%20Restoration
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