Totally confused on MCCT - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Totally confused on MCCT

First let me say thank you to all you guys for the great advice. My new to me bike is running perfect. Pulls 10,000 rpm like nothing, 48 mpg all around, splines happy, rectifier way cool. I want to quiet the engine down by doing some form of Kanucks modification. I cannot understand the threads on doing it. Bolt lengths vary- 4 inch,3 1/2 inch, 1 1/2 inch, diameters vary 6 mm- 8 mm, one part goes then seems to stay. I can't grasp the procedure. I don't want to ruin a great running bike so any clarification would be appreciated.
Jim:
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 09:42 PM
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The stock Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners seem to be a bit on the weak side, and when the internal spring loosens up, it tends to make the cam chain slap inside the engine case - not a good thing. There are various means and methods to address this (repacking or replacing the spring) and one method is to replace the whole thing with a manual adjuster. I've done this on my Vulcan instead of messing around with it. The bolt length is needed to introduce the correct amount of pressure against the cam chain, and once you get that you tighten the locknut and the cam chain is properly tensioned and quiet.

My advise is to do nothing unless you're getting a cam chain slap - you'll hear it, don't worry. If you don't hear it, you're good to go (at least for now) and if you do hear it, I can recommend the MCCT as a fix. It worked for me.

Vulcan 750 is a great bike, isn't it?

Happy Riding!

Chaos

Mike
2005 Vulcan - bought used August 2007
Memphis Shades Classic Deuce Windscreen
Willie and Max Saddlebags
Kaw saddlebag bracket set and taillight relocation
Kaw Rear Rack and extended backrest
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TOC Manual Cam Chain Tensioners
19,000 miles and counting...
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaos View Post
The stock Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners seem to be a bit on the weak side, and when the internal spring loosens up, it tends to make the cam chain slap inside the engine case - not a good thing. There are various means and methods to address this (repacking or replacing the spring) and one method is to replace the whole thing with a manual adjuster. I've done this on my Vulcan instead of messing around with it. The bolt length is needed to introduce the correct amount of pressure against the cam chain, and once you get that you tighten the locknut and the cam chain is properly tensioned and quiet.

My advise is to do nothing unless you're getting a cam chain slap - you'll hear it, don't worry. If you don't hear it, you're good to go (at least for now) and if you do hear it, I can recommend the MCCT as a fix. It worked for me.

Vulcan 750 is a great bike, isn't it?

Happy Riding!

Chaos
Thanks Chaos, I would like to try it. I am just trying to make sense of Kanuck 69 three pages on the mcct modification, Under Forums, Engines, 2nd page.
Jim
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 09:56 PM
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it makes since if your doing it while reading the write up.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 10:09 PM
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I cheated and bought pre-manufactured MCCTs, so I can't speak to Kanuck's instructions, but I can tell you my engine is quiet now.

Good luck!

Mike
2005 Vulcan - bought used August 2007
Memphis Shades Classic Deuce Windscreen
Willie and Max Saddlebags
Kaw saddlebag bracket set and taillight relocation
Kaw Rear Rack and extended backrest
Lubed Splines
Toolbox Hinge Repair
Interstate AGM Battery
Bulldog's R/R Relocation Kit
TOC Manual Cam Chain Tensioners
19,000 miles and counting...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaos View Post
I cheated and bought pre-manufactured MCCTs, so I can't speak to Kanuck's instructions, but I can tell you my engine is quiet now.

Good luck!
You didn't cheat,you just could afford the good stuff ,main thing is you fixed the problem.




If you see it on my bike I did it
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:31 AM
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Good to hear you resolved the problem. Sorry you couldn't follow the write up. I am more of a do'er than an explainer. Sorry about that but yes, my method is for those who don't want to fork out the cash for the true MCCT's.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanuck69 View Post
Good to hear you resolved the problem. Sorry you couldn't follow the write up. I am more of a do'er than an explainer. Sorry about that but yes, my method is for those who don't want to fork out the cash for the true MCCT's.
Kanuck, Does the cap screw just come off and then the new longer screw just screws down into that opening and pushes against the plunger screw. This would only require removing the cap screw right?
Thanks Jim
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:42 AM
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Technically you could do that. I'm not sure what would happen with the spring if it's left in there & there's
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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What needs to be removed then? The piece under the cap screw?
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