BIG "oops" on exahust pipe removal - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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BIG "oops" on exahust pipe removal

Ok - today my impatience has done me in. I was trying to remove the right-side exhaust pipe, and instead of being smart and soaking the nut and bolt with some WD40 and waiting when I encountered resistance, I tried pushing just a little bit harder, and then - SNAP. Yep - snapped the dang bolt clean off (pic attached).

So now, I am pretty freaked out obviously, and wondering what I need to do. First question is this : it looks to me like there is some kind of exhaust manifold maybe? Or is it the cylinder head, that the bolt actually comes from? There is some fixture with four similar looking nuts on the front of the cylinder, just behind the radiator, and I am wondering if I am going to need to replace it...? And if so, what it entails.

Another question would be (and I seriously doubt this) if I took it to a shop, could they tap it out, and resink another bolt or something? I am REALLY hoping there is some fix that isn't all too hard or all too expensive. The weather is awesome, the bike was running great, and I was merely trying to put on some brackets for mounting highway pegs I got from Chad. Ugh! I knew I should have soaked it - I was just in a hurry, and as the old adage says - haste makes waste.

As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated. In fact, it is so much appreciated that I am becoming a site supporter as of today. Lord knows, this is one thing in my life that is worth far more than I have (not yet) paid for it!



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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 07:29 PM
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Looks to me like you can take the 2 collar pieces off the exhaust pipe and the broken off stud will still project from the manifold.
Soak the stud with PB Blaster for a day or two and give the end a couple of good whacks with a hammer to break any corrosion seizure on the threads.
Try gripping the stud with vice grips to turn and "worry" it back and forth until you can turn it all the way out.

Clean out blind hole with a metric tap and compressed air.
Use anti-seize on the new stud when you install it.

Gordon

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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 07:45 PM
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Try heating the stud with a torch, also. Might have lock-tight on it.....doubt it, but its possible.
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Gordon - you rock! I got so freaked out, I couldn't imagine something so simple. I appreciate it man. I will do exactly as you said and let you know how it goes.

And I SOOOO wanted to ride this weekend, as it is gourgeous. Dang it all anyway! Lol : )


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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 09:31 PM
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and please don't heat the studs... this works with steel on steel bolts, but on aluminum on steel... not such a great idea... you will get the bolt out easy, but you won't be able to clean up the whole well enough to add a new bolt with out welding the hole closed and re drilling and tapping the hole.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Installing new stud...

Thanks for the replies all.

Gordon, I was wondering - how will the new stud be installed? I mean, is it threaded on both ends, such that it will screw into the manifold? Or is it simply a press fit?

Forgive me if I am mis-stating this, or if I seem a little ignorant about this stuff. I have some mechanical skills, but there are a number of things I have not yet done, and this is definitely one of them. I am familiar with replacing the mounting studs on car wheels, but not sure this is the same type of deal.


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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Kev View Post
Thanks for the replies all.

Gordon, I was wondering - how will the new stud be installed? I mean, is it threaded on both ends, such that it will screw into the manifold? Or is it simply a press fit?

Forgive me if I am mis-stating this, or if I seem a little ignorant about this stuff. I have some mechanical skills, but there are a number of things I have not yet done, and this is definitely one of them. I am familiar with replacing the mounting studs on car wheels, but not sure this is the same type of deal.
AZ Kev
I imagine the stud is threaded on both ends, but haven`t had the pleasure of replacing one yet.

Can`t be a press fit like an auto wheel stud.
Wheel stud is pressed in from the back of the hub, and has a rim like a bolt head to hold it and tighten the nut against.

To install a new stud - screw two nuts on the top end of the stud and jam them tight together with a pair of wrenches. Then you can apply torque to the top nut with a wrench to install into the blind hole.
Remember the anti-seize.
Two wrenches to unjam nuts and remove.

If you need more help, just ask.

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
Approx.19,300km (12,000 miles)

H-D windshield
Relocated R/R
MF-AGM battery
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns
F&S luggage rack and engine guard
Kury Offset Hiway pegs
July 13, 2016, Riding on the DARKSIDE now, Classic Radial 165/80-15


TOP TEN THINGS A NEW RIDER/OWNER SHOULD DO. Click on link.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9127

Last edited by OlHossCanada; 03-04-2011 at 11:32 PM.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 12:34 AM
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In response to your original question, there is a manifold mounted to the head with 4 bolts.
If you have to, you can carefully remove the manifold to get at the broken stud easier.
If you can't get the stud out, there are several places to get a replacement. Most bike salvage yards have them for pretty cheap. There are several on E-Bay as well, and there is a link on this site for Vulcan parts for sale there.
As was stated earlier, you can soak the stud with PB Blaster or the like, and work the stud out if there is enough "meat" to get hold of.
Good and happy riding.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 08:56 AM
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the studs are threaded into the manifold, not pressed in... the reason you work the stud back and forth as you twist it out is to help keep the threads clean of rust and lesson the binding.
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 09:03 AM
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I would use threadlocker rather than antiseize on the internal threads. It will minimize corrosion and help hold the stud in place. Use antiseize on the external threads so the nut doesn't grab again.

I'm keepin' all the left over parts. I'm gonna use 'em to build another bike!
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