eaten camshaft - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-16-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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eaten camshaft

so while the base gaskets were getting changed, I realized that one of the camshafts on the rear cylinder was really badly worn. the lobes had massive flat spots and were angled off to one side. any idea how this could have happened? the rest of them were fine. i replaced that cam and the rockers and the ticking tapping noise i was led to beleive were ACCT noise was gone. a couple thousand miles later..... noise is back. just like before. at idle and low rpm under light acceleration. so i think it ate this cam to.... WHATS HAPPENING. these bikes are really dissapointing. cus i love it, but its so junk how you have to work non stop and nothing lasts.

i have a 2005 with now almost 12 thousand miles

also the final drive is leaking its gear oil and splashing it onto the rear wheel over time. endless bs.....

its making me consider trading it in and getting a honda again. any help plz?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 03:05 AM
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Sounds like the lash adjusters are not sitting square with the cam. If they crooked, it will eat the cam up in a few thousand miles.
I had a similar problem with a 400 HP small block Ford I built. 1 lifter bore wasn't square with the cam lobe, and it would eat the lobe off of the cam.
You need to check to see if the lash adjuster is worn on one side, or offset in the head.
Another thing is weak metal in the cam, but highly unlikely.
You will most likely need to pull the engine if you haven't done so already, and look it over closely. Especially where the adjusters set in the head.
As to your final drive leaking, there is an o-ring that sits in there, and it could have hardened, or cracked, and allowing the grease to leak onto the wheel.
Check the level in the final drive to see if it's overfull, I'm not sure if that would cause it to leak or not. Have the bike sitting on the centerstand, remove the fill plug, and if the level is correct, the oil should be right at the bottom of the threads.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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im gonna do an oil pressure test and go from there. if its good which im hoping then ill lower the engine enough to get the rear cover off and make sure all the oil passages are ok and that the little filter screen is perfect. then ill inspect the cams, rockers, and lifters. if all is well and the cam looks ok still ill just do the lifters for that cam since i dont have the tools to do a leakdown test except for my eyes.....

thats the plan anyway. i think that'll be this weekend. I know im tired of throwing money at this thing.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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and what do i do if the lifter bores are infact crooked or oblonged. it would of been that way from the factory!?!?!?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 09:48 AM
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Why don't you go with the grambo trick first and go from there???

02 honda sabre 1100
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost-Rider View Post
and what do i do if the lifter bores are infact crooked or oblonged. it would of been that way from the factory!?!?!?
The ticking sound may just be the ACCTS. If so, then they are easily fixed with new stronger springs from TOC manufacturing or switch to MCCTS. Sometimes the GAMBO trick will solve it as well, but usually only temporary (few thousand miles). The cam wear issues and failing gaskets (on a 2005) sounds like you may have gotten a defective bike from the factory or one of the hydraulic lifters failed over the passed 12K miles (bad oil pressure, blocked oil path, debris, rust, etc.). If the hydraulic lifters on these bikes are similar to those used in automobiles (and I don't have the answer to that), then the damaged/stuck lifter can be bored out and replaced with an over-sized lifter. I've had this done to automobiles where a hydraulic lifter is a hydraulic lifter regardless of size.


Chris Glennon - Portland, OR

Last edited by cglennon; 02-18-2011 at 06:11 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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it has NOTHING to do with the cam chain tension. as i have already installed manual tensioners which did nothing. good to see im so unlucky i have big problems no one else ever needs to think about.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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so i took the valve covers off and the lifters were just fine however the new cam was getting eaten. i took the hold down for the cams off and noticed the two tink holes in the middle were blocked. idk what with, but i cleaned them out and everything else and put it all back together changed the clutch and oil with 20-50 and used a pure one filter and it seems to be ok with oil now (no oil light coming on.) but the cam is still ****ed. anyone wanna buy my bike? lol
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