Brand new AGM battery - STILL can't get it started - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Brand new AGM battery - STILL can't get it started

Ok guys - I need some help here.

Bought this bike last weekend, weather was beautiful (60's), rode it home, no problem.

Went out once this week to start it in the morning, was a little tough, but it strarted. Went out this morning - bike would not start, and sounded like battery was dying. Went down, bought brand new AGM battery, put it in, bike still does not turn easily, and will not start. Every now and then, get an extremely loud backfire out of the exhaust pipe.

Read all the other threads on here, tried everything I can think of; won't start, and can hardly get it to even fire. Temp has now warmed up, don't know what to do.

Any ideas or advice? The bike is in great condition, only 7700 miles, and ran beautifully just last week...???

Help!

AZ Kev
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 01:12 PM
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If you did not charge the batt before installing that could be the problem. It is also not unheard of for a batt to be non-op right out of the box. Not common, but not unheard of. I'd start by charging it and if that doesn't work, take it back for a trade in.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 02:31 PM
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If the stator is bad, the battery won't charge, and as soon as it runs out of juice... you're done.

Once the battery is re-charged, check the battery voltage with the engine running and revved up to around 3k rpm or so. It should read close to 14V. If it's less than 13V, it's not charging, and you need to address the seller.... as a stator (alternator) is a PITA to change if bad, as the entire engine needs removed.

Good Luck!

05 VN750
Iridium Plugs
Spline Lubed front/rear
ignition pickups gapped
AGM Battery
Relocated MOSFET R/R
Coaster Mod
Pilot Screws at 2-1/4 turns
Slipstreamer S-08 Windshield
F&S Saddlebags/Mounts
Luggage Rack
12V Outlet
Mustang Seat
sissy bar
Oversized Pirelli Front Tire
6k miles

PW50, XR50, TTR90, XR100, DT175 (2-smoker), CRF230F, XR250R (dual sported), XR400R 4 KIDS, LOL!

1966 mustang street/strip
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 02:39 PM
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Check your grounds at the frame. Also check all the big cable connections. Especially the ones going to the starter. And the ground from the frame to the engine.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 02:47 PM
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You should really use a voltmeter here to see if the battery is fully charged... and then to see what kinda voltage you're getting elsewhere, like at the starter solenoid and such.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 03:48 PM
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And while you have the meter out, check the amps. Had a battery that tested around 13 volts, but had zero amps.

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 04:06 PM
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Just remember that for checking the amps you have to put the meter in line (in series) with the circuit, not parallel like with checking volts.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceal View Post
Just remember that for checking the amps you have to put the meter in line (in series) with the circuit, not parallel like with checking volts.
Alternator (stator) output cannot be checked like this, as the voltage regulator will limit the current (amps) so the battery does not get overcharged.

It will read the full output if the battery is nearly dead, as it can accept the full current, but other than that, it won't read the full amount, as it's limited by the voltage regulator.

Best bet is to check the battery voltage with it running. Typically, it will be around 13.8V to 14.2V with it revved up to 3-4k rpm. If the bike is not charging, it will generally be around 12.8V or less.

Good Luck!

05 VN750
Iridium Plugs
Spline Lubed front/rear
ignition pickups gapped
AGM Battery
Relocated MOSFET R/R
Coaster Mod
Pilot Screws at 2-1/4 turns
Slipstreamer S-08 Windshield
F&S Saddlebags/Mounts
Luggage Rack
12V Outlet
Mustang Seat
sissy bar
Oversized Pirelli Front Tire
6k miles

PW50, XR50, TTR90, XR100, DT175 (2-smoker), CRF230F, XR250R (dual sported), XR400R 4 KIDS, LOL!

1966 mustang street/strip
4-speed, nitrous
[email protected] 135.6
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 08:33 PM
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I meant what I said towards measuring amps going from the battery to the starter system... not the stator's output... I'm not that great on electric stuff though, I might still be wrong.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011, 01:52 AM
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Assuming that your battery is ok, you may check the starter. I think the previous posts were getting off course. A bad stator will not stop you from starting. And an AGM battery should be sealed and fully charged. So I think you may need to run through the fuel system and the ignition. If you got a backfire, your probably getting fuel and spark. But I would start with the Carb. You may have a stuck float or something, and your carb is super rich. If you are putting the choke on and your carbs are running really rich then it will be hard to start and will backfire. If you think this may be the case, dont choke it. While you are starting it open up a throttle a little. This will help lean out the air and get it started. If you are already giving it throttle and it is not making a difference, you may have the oposite problem. You may be gummed up. Try rhe Seafoam trick. I havent done it but many of the members here swear by it.
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