Coaster Design - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Coaster Design

I did this in Google Sketchup. I hope the dimensions are close. Let me know if you want the model file.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 11:22 AM
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That looks pretty cool bigblue. If I ever decide to remove the factory housing that I plugged I wouldn't mind using that set up. Is it something you are going to make or just mocking it up? I have kept the factory look just in case the inspection station dude knows what it is for. Some places are cracking down on emissions and if modified they will fail inspection.

01' VN750
Jardine cross over exaust
Kyriakin grips and foot pegs
Modified seat and backrest
Windshield
Luggage rack
Crash bar with Kyriakin pegs and extensions
Kumho 758 165/80-15 CT rear Dunlop 404 110/90-19 front
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
Spline lube

93' VN750 getting TLC
Decals and mirrors
Coastered and air/fuel screws at 2.5 turns
ACCTs to MCCTs
Degoated with Harley mufflers
Duro 110-90-19 front 150-90-15 rear
Pick-up coils at .020
Spline lube
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 04:21 PM
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Those look really cool. If i was not already coastered I would buy a set of those.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 06:42 PM
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here are the actual specs of the covers...
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Nice, do you have specs for other parts?

Handle bars, seat?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-01-2010, 07:45 PM
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what you need for seat and handlebar specs.. I don't have them per say.. but can get them, or might know what you need from the top of my head.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 10:40 AM
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I simply took some 5/8" heater hose caps (look like oversized vacuum caps) and attached them to where the hose hooks up. They fit snugly, but I also used the factory wire pinch clamp.

I installed them on the engine, removed the hoses, and also attached them to where the other end of the hose connects.

I paid $3/pr downtown at the local autoparts store.

I thought about removing the apparatus the hoses attaches to, but didn't know if it would be a problem or not. Is removing the air valve the hoses attaches to an issue? I'm assuming the other lines running to it would need plugged...



The 5/8" caps fit nice, snug, and PERFECT.

Good Luck!

05 VN750
Iridium Plugs
Spline Lubed front/rear
ignition pickups gapped
AGM Battery
Relocated MOSFET R/R
Coaster Mod
Pilot Screws at 2-1/4 turns
Slipstreamer S-08 Windshield
F&S Saddlebags/Mounts
Luggage Rack
12V Outlet
Mustang Seat
sissy bar
Oversized Pirelli Front Tire
6k miles

PW50, XR50, TTR90, XR100, DT175 (2-smoker), CRF230F, XR250R (dual sported), XR400R 4 KIDS, LOL!

1966 mustang street/strip
4-speed, nitrous
[email protected] 135.6
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 02:28 PM
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I did the same thing Mike.
I did remove the valve apparatus. I used a wine bottle cork to plug the hole of the pipe that runs to the air box, and left that hose in place. The cork fit perfectly snug. All the other related hoses got removed from the bike. Emission stuff will be easy to re-install if I ever need it on the bike again for any reason.

~~C8> Ratt
________________________
'91 VN750 - Cosmic Splendor/Candy Wine
Done: Coastered, .020 ign., Iridiums, VM
Plexistar II, MCCT's, Relocated MOSFET
Next: LED's
Will Do: Horns, Shave(maybe)

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZCraggRatt View Post
I did the same thing Mike.
I did remove the valve apparatus. I used a wine bottle cork to plug the hole of the pipe that runs to the air box, and left that hose in place. The cork fit perfectly snug. All the other related hoses got removed from the bike. Emission stuff will be easy to re-install if I ever need it on the bike again for any reason.
Cool. I guess you just plugged the small line that goes from the apparatus to the carburetor?

I was a little pushed for time, or I would have removed the tank to see where that big hose went. If/when I do remove the tank, I'll probably see where the big hose goes, remove it, and cap where it attaches.

Personally, I don't know why people buy plates, when all you've got to do is cap the hose barbs. I guess, whatever works...

These bikes do seem to be a bit lean. Throttle response in stock form isn't that good at lower rpm. I'd think, even with the stock exhaust, they would benefit from some carb tuning. I like the bike being fairly quiet, but still might experiment with some jetting. I'll probably just start with the pilot screws, as that would be a decent first move, and those carbs look like a PITA to remove and reinstall! It's a 5 minute job on my dirt bike!

05 VN750
Iridium Plugs
Spline Lubed front/rear
ignition pickups gapped
AGM Battery
Relocated MOSFET R/R
Coaster Mod
Pilot Screws at 2-1/4 turns
Slipstreamer S-08 Windshield
F&S Saddlebags/Mounts
Luggage Rack
12V Outlet
Mustang Seat
sissy bar
Oversized Pirelli Front Tire
6k miles

PW50, XR50, TTR90, XR100, DT175 (2-smoker), CRF230F, XR250R (dual sported), XR400R 4 KIDS, LOL!

1966 mustang street/strip
4-speed, nitrous
[email protected] 135.6
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 03:27 PM
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The small line gets removed with the valve apparatus. I put a common vacuum line plug on the carburator where the hose was.

Capping where that big hose attaches to the air box would be much more difficult than the cork method, and not buy you much return on the investment. Then, though you may never need to, there would be much more trouble re-installing for whatever reason.

I would suggest 2.5 turns on the fuel mix ratio. I know my sig says I have them at 2.0, and I do still have some popping on deceleration. And yes, removal of the carbs is considered by most on this forum to be a PITA.
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