Engine Rebuild - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-06-2006, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Engine Rebuild

Hello,
I just received my 700 Kawasaki today. When I started to change the oil, I pulled out the oil screen it was full of metal. So my best guess is the engine needs to be rebuilt. Does any one know where the best place is to get a rebuilt kit?

Thanks
Indy Racer
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-06-2006, 10:12 PM
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There isn't a "rebuid" kit. You have to make a parts list and make your own. It may be easier/cheaper to find a replacement engine and if it is from a 750, it will a little more power.

Before you rebuild, is it running? If so how does it sound? A couple of things that make noise and create metal in the screen are bad cam chain tencheners and another is the balancer. Another thing to check is if the metal in the screen is magnetic.

Deuce (Loran Naperville IL)
1995 VN750 (Black w/ 2004 tins - no teal)
2003 VN750
Both have: - F&S Bags & brackets
- Corbin seat w backrest
- Progressive suspension.
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2 1983 V65 Magnas
2 1985 V65 Mangas (1 which is in many parts)
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-07-2006, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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The metal in the screen was magnetized big time. The oil had metal in it also, however the bike had been sitting for 2 years. The bike is a 1985 VN700. I did not want to put new oil in and damage the bike more. The person I got the bike from said he was riding it when it lost power and he put it in the garage. I will put some oil in it and battery and see if I can get it running. Is there a sequence to starting the bike? I was told there is a special way to start the bike? I don’t know much about these bikes. Could not beat the price free.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2006, 01:00 AM
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well to start the bike you first stand on your head.....nah just kidding. ummm its just like you would any other bike, key in and in "on" position, fuel petcock on, run switch on, choke if needed (3/4 works well on cold days), and turn her over.

the metal being magnitized can be a good and bad thing. good that it is steal, so the block isnt gone, or not yet if he put her up right after it happend. how many miles on it? any wierd noises? have u started her up yet?

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2006, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have had the bike running and there is a noise coming from the front cylinder. It appears that the cam chain tenchener may be at fault. I removed the two nuts however there is a clamp holding it on and I have to go to work. Any suggestions on how best to remove the chain tenchener cover or where to purchase a new one? Thanks for the replay. The milage is 17,000, and yes it has been upright.

Last edited by Indy Racer; 05-08-2006 at 06:27 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2006, 07:17 PM
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I think you are talking about a bracket which supports a metal oil line. If you have a long nose vice grip or some other tool, just bend the "clamp" out of the way - you may need to start bending it with a screwdriver.

Deuce (Loran Naperville IL)
1995 VN750 (Black w/ 2004 tins - no teal)
2003 VN750
Both have: - F&S Bags & brackets
- Corbin seat w backrest
- Progressive suspension.
- Kury iso goldwing grips
2 1983 V65 Magnas
2 1985 V65 Mangas (1 which is in many parts)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Still standing on my head

I removed the cam chain tenchener and it appeared to be fine according to the photos in the service manual. There was no damage on the tenchener. I am hoping I do not have to remove the engine from the bike. Again thanks for the help.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 12:43 PM
 
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With the tensioner on (remember to wind it before replacing) and the bike running, give the internal screw a little counter clockwisae pressure and see if the noise changes.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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I put it back on without winding it. I will take it back off and wind it. Just a question is there a lock washer or something keeping the tensioner from moving before I start winding? May be it will be easier to the tensioner on this time. Thanks for all of the help.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 01:21 PM
 
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You gotta wind the tensioner clockwise and hold it while replacing it. If it seems bound up you should take it apart and re-preload the spring (which I would do anyway since you have it off.) There are some great instructions on here if you do a search.
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