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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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VN750 Starting issues

i have a 87 VN750 and having starting issues

i have but a new battery in every year (just cheap ones)\
only happends when cold(or not cold just when sitting like 8h +)
push starting does not work either

there is new plugs on(Reg NGK)
tank uses Supreme gas


did this morning at 6:30am 4 degrees celcius
after i kill the battery trying to start you push start in 2nd and 3 gear
same issue nonthin

then i hook to car battery and voom starts first shot

any ideas

Thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 08:23 AM
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Yes, \
Those cheaper batteries are great for lawn mowers, but our bikes take a bit more to start. Get a Maintenance free westco or yuasa battery. You will be pleased with the extra CCA and won't have to keep taking the seat off to check battery levels or worry about acid spills.
Also our bikes run just fine on regular gas. (87 octane US equivalant)
And thirdly, How are you trying to start the bike.
When cold the best procedure is 3/4 to full choke, NO throttle and hit the start button. Warm starts are no choke and just a blip of the throttle.
Also, are you getting anything at all when trying to start or just clicks or does it try to turn over but not catch?
Are you starting in gear or in neutral? If you are trying to start in gear you could have a sticky clutch lever or kickstand switch.

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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it just rolls over and over and over, in nutural it some times catches but if i hit the gas it kills

my choke is not working also
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 09:08 AM
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Sorry, but you need the choke for cold starts. Get that working and the cold starts will work.
What is wrong with your choke? Cable? Adjustment?

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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the metel clip is not holding the cable at the carbs so when i move teh choke it moves the cable and the cable housing

i did not think there was a diff between opwning the choke and opeaning throttle half
lol

Last edited by rcmpayne; 04-23-2006 at 09:32 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 12:24 PM
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yep there is a big difference.... fix that and do what dianna suggested, you'll see a huge difference in ease to start...4 deg cel that is what like 38 deg far..... you may also later find a way to block a portion of your radiator. i am in texas and under 45 deg far i find i need to block a portion of it. i will be making something before winter comes back around (thinking leather or pleather with velcro straps)

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2006, 12:20 AM
 
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Very good tips/hints and sugestions. My '91 was a hard starter and very cold natured, EVERYTHING was checked tweeked and tuned, but the problem just got worse and was compounded by poor idle, pops and backfires, after doublechecking I noticed my carb rubbers (dont know the correct word) had loose clamps, long phillips screwdriver and problem solved.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2006, 08:30 AM
 
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Trouble starting when hot

My bike is hard to start when the engine is still hot. This is especially a problem at the gas station. You stop, fill up, and it won't start. Well, it will eventually, but it takes a few tries. I have thought it was a fuel delivery problem, like flooding or something. But reading posts either here on the yahoo group, I came across something about the rectifier getting too hot under the battery, causing weak fire. Has anyone here had this specific problem? I have already gone to a Yausa sealed battery. I have a '93 VN 750 with just under 18,000 miles. I have read up on the rectifier relocation, but since I don't have any extra electronics on the bike, I didn't think I would need to do this mod.

Russ
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2006, 08:34 AM
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See the pick-up coil adjustment I just posted https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1580
This has solved a lot of hot starting problems

Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
VROC # 11628 / 25000-H
ARVROC # 12 Coordinator and Crowd Control
OKVROC # 18 (H)
TNVROC # 45 (H)
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 12:35 PM
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I'm building a bracket to relocate the r/r even with no electrical additions to the bike, but as part of my preventive maintenance. Just bought the bike three weeks ago. No problems starting, but when it's hot, it takes a couple trys, sometimes. I'll also be adding inline fuses to all three of the stator wires.

The problems with the r/r are mostly from heat from the location above the pre muffler, but adding any additional electrical components can excellerate the life of the r/r and if the r/r goes, you've more than likely lost your stator $$$. It's best to relocate the r/r to a cooler location no matter what your electrical load might be. The gel cell MF battery is also a must do! You'll spend less in the long run.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


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