Oil Cooler for a VN750? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Question Oil Cooler for a VN750?

Sacramento gets *hot* in the summer. The fan comes on even cruising at 60mph. I burned up a stator on a new 750, and I think it's because of the hot oil. When the fan comes on, it cools the coolant, but that just adds current drain to the stator and heats it up even hotter.
I'd like to cool the oil. But I can't find any adaptor to screw on under my oil filter. Neither do I know how to plug into the oil system with a bypass to attach a generic oil cooler.

Anybody know what might be done?
Angky.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 02:06 AM
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This may or may not be helpful.

I am also a VW buff and know of a filter relocation kit for the older air-cooled motors. It basically is a round plate dimensioned like an oil filter but with fittings plumbed for outlet and return.

I would, personally, start with something like that and toss on a smallish trans-oil radiator from some late model wreck. Mount that in front of the coolant radiator and call it good. Anyhow, hope it sparks an idea for ya. Someone here may know that something like this already exists. I'm still a noob =)
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 07:51 AM
 
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You say your bike is new Angky?
Either way (because you haven't said you did already) you might want to check the thermostat/cooling system. Just to make sure there's no air in the system or nothing is sticking.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2006, 07:07 AM
 
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I to would also look to the thermostat and cooling system, also check the oil level as it aids in cooling also. Maybe even try a syn oil they do tend to run cooler than dino oil.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-22-2006, 08:15 AM
 
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Lightbulb

Another thing to check is your rad cap. Make sure it's sealing. A bad cap can cause loss of pressure and overheating.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Air in Coolant???

Thanks, guys, for the suggestions.
This idea about air in cooling system intrigues me. Maybe I need to know more.
The bike is new--2004 model, bought last April 2005--about 12,000 miles (all of them mine).
Oil is syn--no dino juice ever in it except for break-in. Kept topped and changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Always new filter.
I pulled the stator--inside the engine is pristine clean--*no* carbon deposits in engine, nor coking on stator. (Stator is shorted, but no carbon buildup on it.)
So none of those things should be the problem.
But air in coolant? How does air get into the cooling system? Where is it at? More important, how do we get it out????
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2006, 10:54 PM
 
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I'd open the coolant filler cap (of course when the system is cold) and make sure there is coolant right under the cap so you could see cooling system is filled up with the coolant. If it isn't full, fill it up and ride for some time, then check if the level is the same as it was.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-24-2006, 10:13 AM
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if you dont keep the overflow bottle full, when it sucks in coolant and it runs out it will start to suck in air....and since air doesnt move like water in a closed system like that it makes the coolant move very slow and sometimes not at all.....

to properly "de-air" the system i found it is best to fill 'er up to the top...then squeeze the hose just a tad when putting on the filler cap....gets out every last bit.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2006, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn750angky
Thanks, guys, for the suggestions.
This idea about air in cooling system intrigues me. Maybe I need to know more.
The bike is new--2004 model, bought last April 2005--about 12,000 miles (all of them mine).
Oil is syn--no dino juice ever in it except for break-in. Kept topped and changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Always new filter.
I pulled the stator--inside the engine is pristine clean--*no* carbon deposits in engine, nor coking on stator. (Stator is shorted, but no carbon buildup on it.)
So none of those things should be the problem.
But air in coolant? How does air get into the cooling system? Where is it at? More important, how do we get it out????
There's a bleeder valve located on the thermostat housing. I haven't changed the coolant yet (going to this summer) but Clymer's says to remove the gas tank to get to this valve. Open the valve, air bubbles out. If you haven't replaced the coolant, it's probably time anyway. Get a copy of Clymer's or another manual. There's a couple of drain bolts on the engine that have to be removed to get all the coolant out.

My bike's stator was defective when it went into the bike. Had it replaced under warranty. Maybe they just had a bad batch of stators. Apparently it's cheaper to replace the bad stators than to make sure they're all ok in the first place.

I've never heard of anyone putting an oil cooler on a 750 and they've been running around for over 20 years. I doubt it's worth the trouble.

'04 750A- and loving it!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2006, 03:43 PM
 
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I bought a cooler that staps on the oil filter and has ridges all aournd so that the heat is disipated eaiser. I have seen prettier models in different magazines. I think JC Whitney has a few. Mine is aluminum and seems to work fine. I think it cost about $20 and it came from someone on the internet. K
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