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MCCT Install (Manual Cam Chain Tensioner)

26K views 24 replies 17 participants last post by  VN750Rider/Jerry 
#1 ·
Howdy Folks --

I plan to install the manual cam chain tensioners from TOC. I found some info with a search but still have a few questions:

1. It appears that I need to order two MCCT's, one for each cylinder, correct?

2. Is the install of the actual MCCT and adjustment with the engine running just like demonstrated in this Utube video? (other than the removal of parts on a different bike)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVPbkz3aXR8

3. It appears that on our VN the coolant bottle needs to be removed for the right side install. Is that correct?

4. Is it necessary to set the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center)? If so, how can this be done without removing the engine?

Thanx in advance!
 
#2 ·
Yes two MCCT's, intall them and do a adjustment to them before starting engine. If you read the forum tighten untill you feel resistance and then back them off a half turn about. Engine does not need to be on top dead center. Just pull out the old ones and install the new, no new gaskets are required. Then you can start the engine and fine tune the MCCT's by sound. You may have to adjust a few times to get it just right. Mine would sound good at idle and engine warmed up, but after it really gets hot it would make the ticking sound a little. So had to go back and readjust a few times.
 
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#6 ·
MCCT Conversion for $4.50!!



Hey WEH --

I noticed in your signature block, "Mcct convertion-cost 4.50." :wow:

$4.50 is a LOT less than $100.00 for two MCCT's. How did you do it? :confused: Was it fairly easy to do? Do you have photos.

Thanx!
 
#9 ·
MCCT

Quick question....will it do any harm if I just replace one acct with manual? From what I understand, front one easy access, other one not so much. When I previously "adjusted" the front acct it always took care of horrible engine noise so hoping I can get away with just replacIng this one since the threads broke off :( and can no longer hold bolt. Thanks!
 
#10 · (Edited)
If only the front one isn't working don't see why not.but the space issue on the back one can be fine if you put a spacer behind the overflow tank.holy old thread,BATMAN.just do em both
 
#11 ·
I highly recommend doing what the late Lance328 "The Professor" says. Just replace both of them with TOC manual tensioners. A safe, reliable, lifetime fix for the price of a tire. Like he said, that is not part of the engine where you should be trying to cheap out. You can turn a perfectly good engine into a boat anchor just trying to save a few bucks.
 
#22 ·
I know I'm quoting an old post here. But there was some life to this discussion in October. I'll just see who says what.

Has anyone used the $20 MCCT's off of ebay? I'm not the kind of person to cheap out on anything. But I also don't want to pay more just because it costs more. I hope you know what I mean by that. If the $20 MCCTs are perfectly fine and have no issues, then they're the smarter choice. Right?

Anyway, I put up a video on youtube of my engine running. I have absolutely no idea what an engine is supposed to sound like. This is my first bike. So let me know what you hear here. Does this sound normal? If the ACCT is going, am I going to damage the bike riding like this until I get the MCCTs?
Thanks for the help guys.
 
#13 ·
Hey, does the 2005 Vulcan 750 have an acct or an mcct, automatic or manual. The manual i downloaded, states that the existing cam tensioner can be adjusted, so I assume that means it is a mcct. In which case I do not have to change the tensioner and I can simply make the adjustment.
I guess I can just pull it out and see, but if anyone on the forum knows, that would be awesome. thanks
 
#17 ·
Hallelujeeer
 
#18 ·
Hey, I just got some TOC MCCTs in the mail. Tried installing them today and found it quite challenging! They come with teflon tape from TOC so the "finger tighten until you feel resistance" method isn't really an option (unless I take the tape off, of course). I do think I had them on too tight to start with, the bike was hard starting and bogging down until I backed them off a bit. Even then, I found it really challenging to get them dialed in.

I ended up putting the right side ACCT back on to try to get the left side one dialed in. Thought I had it, went for a short ride, but the bike started idling really low and actually died in the driveway while I was listening to her. Is the Hot/Cold thing an issue? Do I need to have it dialed in when she's warm?
 
#19 · (Edited)
Yes, any sort of adjustment like this needs to be done with the engine at operating temp.

edit: The reason being, parts in the engine expand with heat, and clearances will become tighter. Something adjusted cold, may become too tight at normal temp. Unless the manual specifies to adjust cold.
 
#23 ·
Well anyway, I bought the MCCTs. One person said, "no TDC is needed!!!". But I couldn't tell if he was saying "no" to disagree with the comment that TDC wasn't necessary and then emphasizing that it is needed, or if he was agreeing that it's not needed.

Can anyone confirm?
 
#25 ·
You do not need to have the engine in any special position. Just make sure YOU DO NOT TURN IT WITH THE TENSIONERS REMOVED. I wouldn't even move it in neutral. if it were to slip into gear it could cause the chains to come off the sprockets since they are not under tension. Yes the dimple in the chain guide is normal. I would not even consider using anything but the TOC tensioners. They are cheaper than the stock tensioners. I had to remove the coolant reservoir to install the rear one, but it fit right back the way it was without any spacers. The way I did mine was to remove the reservoir tank and let it hang, then remove the seat, remove the old tensioners, screw the lock nut up close to the head on the new TOC tensioners, and screw both tensioners in. You should be able to tell when they are fairly tight. Then back them out about one turn. Leave the locknuts alone for now. Start the engine, and get down on your knees on the left side of the bike. In this position you can reach and turn both tensioners at the same time (that was the reason for removing the seat)with the engine at idle, turn the tensioners in and out slightly on both sides. It may take several times, but you will get used to the feel and sound. You will be able to get both of them set to just the point where the rattling stops. Hold them in this position and tighten the locknuts. Start the engine. If you hear any rattling, do it over again. If not but everything back together and go ride it. If it feels normal, everything should be ok. I installed the TOC tensioners on my '02 at around 25,000 miles, the engine failed around 108,000 miles. It never did rattle again after installing the TOC tensioners though. It did fail due to an upper rear cam chain breaking, but I suspect I may have done some damage in the beginning by not knowing what that rattling was and not fixing it soon enough.

Depending on how much you ride, there is another option, but it's not cheap. You can replace worn out tensioners with new oem ones. Expect them to last 10-12,000 miles before they need to be replaced again. The oem tensioners are a defective design, and the cam chain hammering against the plunger wears out the threads on the plunger and in the aluminum tensioner body. They will no longer hold an adjustment. It has nothing to do with springs, which simply help the plunger to advance. The DO NOT hold it in place.
 
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