Head Gasket Orientation? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
the exhaust. If it has to do with the cooling,
engine or exhaust, discuss it here!

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
 
Head Gasket Orientation?

I just tore into my engine and replaced the head gaskets which were worn out, which I concluded from the coolant dripping out the tailpipe. I just reassembled the engine, and when I drained the oil- it is still milky looking (was brand new oil). Is there a proper orientation for the head gaskets which could be preventing them from sealing properly, or is there more likely a leak elsewhere?

Thanks as always.
jakob_rothfuss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 05:38 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 7,387
iTrader: (5)
   
Not sure about orientation. Don't see anything in the manual, and haven't heard anything about "This Side Up" for the head gaskets.

Did this engine run 1-5 minutes before the oil change? On this engine, air entrainment in the oil during warmup makes the oil look murky, milky looking until it's completely hot. It can take quite a while to get this engine to normal temp just by idling. 10-15 minutes in cool weather.

Hopefully that's all it is. You could let it run until completely warm, then have a look. Short ride is even better. If in doubt, you could drain the oil into a clear container and let it settle overnight.

Water pump seal is another spot to get coolant in the oil.

If you didn't drain oil from the filter screen on the side, there's some extra oil in there. Not sure if it would be enough to show up milky, but maybe.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks for the reply- right now I'm changing my oil again, since there was previously a great deal of coolant contamination in the oil. I'm hoping there was just a lot of residual left in the engine. I got it up to normal temp tonight after doing so, and noticed what you meant about the air.

Where's the oil filter screen located? Should I check that and clean it out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Not sure about orientation. Don't see anything in the manual, and haven't heard anything about "This Side Up" for the head gaskets.

Did this engine run 1-5 minutes before the oil change? On this engine, air entrainment in the oil during warmup makes the oil look murky, milky looking until it's completely hot. It can take quite a while to get this engine to normal temp just by idling. 10-15 minutes in cool weather.

Hopefully that's all it is. You could let it run until completely warm, then have a look. Short ride is even better. If in doubt, you could drain the oil into a clear container and let it settle overnight.

Water pump seal is another spot to get coolant in the oil.

If you didn't drain oil from the filter screen on the side, there's some extra oil in there. Not sure if it would be enough to show up milky, but maybe.
jakob_rothfuss is offline  
 
post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 09:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 7,387
iTrader: (5)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakob_rothfuss View Post
Thanks for the reply- right now I'm changing my oil again, since there was previously a great deal of coolant contamination in the oil. I'm hoping there was just a lot of residual left in the engine. I got it up to normal temp tonight after doing so, and noticed what you meant about the air.

Where's the oil filter screen located? Should I check that and clean it out?
The oil screen is on the bottom left side of the engine, the cap has a 17mm hex facing straight out to the left side. There's an o-ring on the cap, a spring, then the screen, there's a split rubber gasket on the screen.

Definitely drain this every oil change, there's more oil in there, maybe 10oz. In this case, milky oil. Inspect the screen for debris, small bits of clutch material is normal, but larger rubber debris usually means failing damper bushings.

Here's a link for the repair manual in case you need it: VN750_Vulcan_Service_Manual_Parts_Catalogue

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
 
Thanks for the link and info!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
The oil screen is on the bottom left side of the engine, the cap has a 17mm hex facing straight out to the left side. There's an o-ring on the cap, a spring, then the screen, there's a split rubber gasket on the screen.

Definitely drain this every oil change, there's more oil in there, maybe 10oz. In this case, milky oil. Inspect the screen for debris, small bits of clutch material is normal, but larger rubber debris usually means failing damper bushings.

Here's a link for the repair manual in case you need it: VN750_Vulcan_Service_Manual_Parts_Catalogue
jakob_rothfuss is offline  
post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 10:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 7,387
iTrader: (5)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakob_rothfuss View Post
Thanks for the link and info!
You're welcome, let us know how it goes.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
 
All seems to be normal now. Guess the filter/oil change was all it needed. Now I just have to figure out why the motor shifts into gear but the rear wheel doesn't move. Clutch problem? Just rebuilt the driveshaft so I know all is good there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
You're welcome, let us know how it goes.
jakob_rothfuss is offline  
post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 7,387
iTrader: (5)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakob_rothfuss View Post
All seems to be normal now. Guess the filter/oil change was all it needed. Now I just have to figure out why the motor shifts into gear but the rear wheel doesn't move. Clutch problem? Just rebuilt the driveshaft so I know all is good there.
Couldn't rule out the clutch yet, but I think it would have to be completely toast, unless somehow it's stuck in the released position. Clutch cable has free-play and the alignment was done when re-installing everything? Any trouble when installing the clutch arm, etc?

How about the shifter, does it still feel like it has spring action. Or, does the neutral light work? Does it go off when you plunk it into first?

First candidate is splines on the driveshaft or final drive, but ...

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 42
iTrader: (0)
 
Yes- all of the above about the clutch are true. There is play in the handle, and it shifts into gear fine. Neutral light is on when in neutral, and off when placed into gear.

I just performed a spline lube on the driveshaft. That doesn't mean I didn't put it back together wrong though. Haha- i'll take a dig into that next.

I'm getting some white smoke out the front cylinder exhaust pipe again- thinking I might have a bad seal by water pump since both head gaskets are indeed new. Only in front cylinder, not rear cylinder (white out the right tailpipe). It does seem that once the engine warms up that this smoke stops so could to be a lot of condensation? I do not know how long he engine sat with the previous owner and I had it in pieces for a month or two.

Thanks a lot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Couldn't rule out the clutch yet, but I think it would have to be completely toast, unless somehow it's stuck in the released position. Clutch cable has free-play and the alignment was done when re-installing everything? Any trouble when installing the clutch arm, etc?

How about the shifter, does it still feel like it has spring action. Or, does the neutral light work? Does it go off when you plunk it into first?

First candidate is splines on the driveshaft or final drive, but ...
jakob_rothfuss is offline  
post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Spockster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 7,387
iTrader: (5)
   
What was the reason for rebuilding the driveshaft? Did you inspect the splines on the shaft coupler? Was there a lot of red dust in the coupler, or just old grease?

Water pump won't put coolant into a cylinder, just the oil.

If it still has stock pipes, the exhaust mixes in the "goat's belly", so front/rear exhaust is all the same. I would lean toward condensation, especially if there's temperature swings in your area.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
Spockster is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome