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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 07:58 PM
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Splines were good on this replacement coupler? Splines on the final drive are ok?

Any debris in the oil screen when you pulled it? A lot of clutch material might point to worn clutch discs. The recent antifreeze in the oil might have taken it out too. Then of course, it needs the correct oil for the wet clutch.

Chance it may be the clutch is worn out, or it's stuck. Coffee Grinder Syndrome is often a problem on this bike, many discussions on it. It happens when the clutch doesn't grab when you let the lever out, then grabs suddenly and unexpectedly.

I suppose it's possible the clutch pack could just stick in the released position and stay there. But if the clutch lever has spring action when you move it, then it's not likely stuck.

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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 08:41 PM
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I had the same/similar issue a few months back. I checked both the Clymer and Haynes manuals for how to adjust the cable but still needed some help from here (Thx Spockster).
Is that gap lined up for the clutch arm with the line on the engine case? I had to take it off and realign it to get the cable adjustment right.
Worth mentioning before you rip the clutch basket out.
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Yes- splines weren't worn on either of the replacement parts. I do not have any history on the clutch discs, or any experience to know by looking if they're worn out of not. Clutch does have a spring action.

All seems really bizarre to me. I'm going to check the oil screen before I pull the plug to repack the clutch, but otherwise it can't hurt anything to do so.

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Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Splines were good on this replacement coupler? Splines on the final drive are ok?

Any debris in the oil screen when you pulled it? A lot of clutch material might point to worn clutch discs. The recent antifreeze in the oil might have taken it out too. Then of course, it needs the correct oil for the wet clutch.

Chance it may be the clutch is worn out, or it's stuck. Coffee Grinder Syndrome is often a problem on this bike, many discussions on it. It happens when the clutch doesn't grab when you let the lever out, then grabs suddenly and unexpectedly.

I suppose it's possible the clutch pack could just stick in the released position and stay there. But if the clutch lever has spring action when you move it, then it's not likely stuck.
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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The gap was previously not aligned close, but I just aligned it when I attempted to take it for a test ride. Didn't yield any different results though. I was hopeful it might haha.

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Originally Posted by mmart View Post
I had the same/similar issue a few months back. I checked both the Clymer and Haynes manuals for how to adjust the cable but still needed some help from here (Thx Spockster).
Is that gap lined up for the clutch arm with the line on the engine case? I had to take it off and realign it to get the cable adjustment right.
Worth mentioning before you rip the clutch basket out.
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 09:23 PM
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If you don't mind taking the rear wheel off again, you can just look and see if the drive shaft is spinning when it's in gear.
Come to think of it, there's a rubber gasket at the swing arm where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. You can just pull that back with a screwdriver and see if the shaft is spinning without really disassembling anything. That would at least point you towards the right half of the drive train.

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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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I didnt even think of that. Would you recommend firing up the engine while the rear wheel is off to see the driveshaft spin? Or would that do damage?

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If you don't mind taking the rear wheel off again, you can just look and see if the drive shaft is spinning when it's in gear.
Come to think of it, there's a rubber gasket at the swing arm where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. You can just pull that back with a screwdriver and see if the shaft is spinning without really disassembling anything. That would at least point you towards the right half of the drive train.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-20-2020, 11:59 AM
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I would think if the clutch plates where worn badly (but clutch otherwise seems to work) you would feel some resistance from the clutch plates.

I would have to think either the clutch assembly is not closing the gap between plates and disks (thats done by springs). that would be stuck pressure plate or all the springs broken/bad (all 5 of them?)

or the driveshaft is not connected properly to the splines at the front bevel, or the splines at the rear bevel are bad/not engaging the rear bevel. There is a spring that goes inside the coupler that will push the shaft to the front of bike to keep the front splines engaged

there is possibility of something in the transmission being fubar, but thats not common on these

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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-20-2020, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
I would think if the clutch plates where worn badly (but clutch otherwise seems to work) you would feel some resistance from the clutch plates.

I would have to think either the clutch assembly is not closing the gap between plates and disks (thats done by springs). that would be stuck pressure plate or all the springs broken/bad (all 5 of them?)

or the driveshaft is not connected properly to the splines at the front bevel, or the splines at the rear bevel are bad/not engaging the rear bevel. There is a spring that goes inside the coupler that will push the shaft to the front of bike to keep the front splines engaged

there is possibility of something in the transmission being fubar, but thats not common on these
Good points. Second paragraph made me think of a broken clutch basket. Lever has spring action, but flexing of the basket prevents engagement?

Important 3rd paragraph - Coupler spring is in place, or missing? Previous owners might have been in there, sounds like you had some old grease on worn rusty splines.

New clutch plates have friction material approx. the thickness of 2-3 layers of cereal box. Plates that are worn put can have thickness of of one layer, but they can still move the bike, probably slipping when power is added.

If nothing MTB posted is amiss, your plates must be completely wiped smooth. However, I'm reminded of a bad clutch I had one miserable winter. I could start the car, put it in gear, get out to scrape the windows with the trans in gear, get back in to rev the engine. After a while the car would move and drive although the clutch slipped if I put on too much power. Drove to work a week this way. So even metal to metal, a clutch can still grab.

Does it look like the clutch has been opened up, like a new gasket, etc.? Somebody left a disc or steel out?

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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-20-2020, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakob_rothfuss View Post
I didnt even think of that. Would you recommend firing up the engine while the rear wheel is off to see the driveshaft spin? Or would that do damage?
Thinking on it more, I'd leave the tire on. An unsupported shaft could flop and shift and bang around horribly. Looking past that rubber gasket at the transmission should be fine on the center stand started in neutral then clutch released in 1st.

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Service Manual Download
Wiring Diagram + annotations * still undergoing revisions, but still more useful than the generic one. Let me know if you find mistakes or think something additional should be added
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-20-2020, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. The clutch pack is good and I soaked it overnight in a good oil. Put everything back together and still no deal.

Heres how this happened originally. The bike was running perfectly normal, then I pulled in the clutch while in 1st, and then the bike wouldnt move as it still does not.

Clutch cable tension has been adjusted as per the manual. The only possible thing could be the rear driveshaft coupler, however that looks in very good condition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by michiganteddybear View Post
I would think if the clutch plates where worn badly (but clutch otherwise seems to work) you would feel some resistance from the clutch plates.

I would have to think either the clutch assembly is not closing the gap between plates and disks (thats done by springs). that would be stuck pressure plate or all the springs broken/bad (all 5 of them?)

or the driveshaft is not connected properly to the splines at the front bevel, or the splines at the rear bevel are bad/not engaging the rear bevel. There is a spring that goes inside the coupler that will push the shaft to the front of bike to keep the front splines engaged

there is possibility of something in the transmission being fubar, but thats not common on these
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