Head Gasket Orientation? - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
the exhaust. If it has to do with the cooling,
engine or exhaust, discuss it here!

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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Reason was just to do the routine spline lube. Splines *looked* to be in good shape to me, but I have another spare final drive that I'm thinking to swap in and see if that works better, because yes, there was a great deal of red dust but also some grease.

Exhaust is all stock, so thanks for reminding me. Exhaust smells slightly sweet but there still could be some residual. I dont know how long anything sat previously, and there have been temp swings around here between 20 and 60. The exhaust smell is slightly concerning still, but I cant imagine where the two could be mixing. Condensation build up?

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What was the reason for rebuilding the driveshaft? Did you inspect the splines on the shaft coupler? Was there a lot of red dust in the coupler, or just old grease?

Water pump won't put coolant into a cylinder, just the oil.

If it still has stock pipes, the exhaust mixes in the "goat's belly", so front/rear exhaust is all the same. I would lean toward condensation, especially if there's temperature swings in your area.
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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:41 PM
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Could still have had some coolant in the pipes. Had that happen once with oil after a complete exhaust swap, smoked for about half an hour before it all burned out.

Here's some examples of stripped coupler splines:






2003-21k mi
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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much Spockster- maybe there really just is a lot of coolant left in the pipes and goat's belly.

Now, I checked the splines on the final drive, but not the coupling on the driveshaft. Hmm...that sounds like what my problem could be. I'll go break into that stuff.

Really appreciate your help once again.

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Could still have had some coolant in the pipes. Had that happen once with oil after a complete exhaust swap, smoked for about half an hour before it all burned out.

Here's some examples of stripped coupler splines:





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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 05:55 PM
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You're welcome.

Best bet is ebay if you need a coupler, sometimes $20 for a complete driveshaft.
The red dust means it's been dry at some point and grinding on the splines.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the condition of my coupler. I didnt think it really looked to be in that bad of shape?

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You're welcome.

Best bet is ebay if you need a coupler, sometimes $20 for a complete driveshaft.
The red dust means it's been dry at some point and grinding on the splines.
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 05:33 PM
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Here is the condition of my coupler. I didnt think it really looked to be in that bad of shape?
Looks like the first 1/4" or so is ground off. Hard to see though.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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I just swapped the rear spline/final gear with a spare I had that was in much better shape. This time when I took it out for a ride, I noticed when I plunked it into 1st, the bike lurched forward a bit but then still would not accelerate.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakob_rothfuss View Post
Here is the condition of my coupler. I didnt think it really looked to be in that bad of shape?
Looks like the first 1/4" or so is ground off. Hard to see though.
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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 06:47 PM
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I just swapped the rear spline/final gear with a spare I had that was in much better shape. This time when I took it out for a ride, I noticed when I plunked it into 1st, the bike lurched forward a bit but then still would not accelerate.
It wouldn't rev up or lacked power? Or revved up and just didn't go any faster?

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Engine would rev up and I could roll bike back and forth with my feet as if I were in neutral, but I was in 1st gear. I'm going to double check my clutch cable...there's a chance I have too little slack in it.

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It wouldn't rev up or lacked power? Or revved up and just didn't go any faster?
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-19-2020, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Sadly, no change in performance after I followed the Clymer's manual for adjusting cable tension. I'm going to swap clutch plates now, and soak the new ones in oil overnight. Maybe I just have old and worn friction plates.

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Engine would rev up and I could roll bike back and forth with my feet as if I were in neutral, but I was in 1st gear. I'm going to double check my clutch cable...there's a chance I have too little slack in it.
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