Oil - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2020, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Even though the last several questions of mine have remained unanswered, I just wanted to share that I got Castrol GTX Synthetic for $1 a qt at my local Walmart. No promotion, so I stocked up. I’m not sure if it was a local thing, but it is worth checking out. It said $2.50 on the shelf tag. Click image for larger version

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'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-10-2020, 06:58 PM
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I got Castrol GTX Synthetic for $1 a qt at my local Walmart. No promotion, so I stocked up. I’m not sure if it was a local thing, but it is worth checking out. It said $2.50 on the shelf tag. Attachment 47265


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Odometer @ October, 2019: 14,200
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 07:56 AM
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Regarding your unanswered posts, they were questions posted in really old threads that hadn't been active in like 6-8 years or so. In cases like that the people involved in the original thread may no longer be active on the forum or see your post asking a question about the topic.

Spark Plug O-Ring - You just gotta get that thing off the old wires. Might take some lube and/or a pick or maybe a replacement o-ring, but you just gotta get it off there.

Wheel Bearing - a puller may help you, and it's free to rent anyhow, but the post seemed to say you could tap it out. Maybe try tapping it our, if it's too stuck you can go rent the puller if need be

Earshave+Rejet (38/135) – NGK Iridiums – MCCT Conversion – Slipstreamer S03 Windshield – Custom Extended Backrest – Custom Highway Bars – MOSFET R/R – LED Underglow – Volt+USB In-Dash – Two-Wire & Blue-Wire Mod – Satin Black Engine Paint – Dampers Parts - Jets: Main=99101-393(#132 stock)/Pilot=n424-22 Pilot(#38 stock)
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. It turns out that O ring was glued on... so I had to perform surgery. I mangled the wheel trying to get the bearing out before I caved and took it to a local dealership. They ended up un****ing the situation, installed the new bearing, mounted and balanced the new tire with the ride on fluid so I didn’t have to have the wheel weight for $80. It was the Harley dealership, so they were a little out of their element. The service guy came out and gave me some tips for both the Harley and Kawasaki repairs. Will 10/10 go back.


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'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 04:20 AM
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Wheel weight for $80? I bought a tire from a local independent motorcycle shop, and they installed and balanced it with weights for $20. The reason I bought the tire from them is because I had a brand new mail order tire and could not get the bead to seat. I decided to let them try. They worked on it for at least an hour during the day, and could not get it properly seated either. It held air, but there was a gap between the rim and tire, so I didn't trust it. We both decided it was a defective tire. They didn't charge me anything for the time they spent messing with the original tire. When I got it home I rechecked the balance. They had it real close, But I prefer perfect, so I rebalanced it. Not a believer in liquids and beads. I do carry Ride-On in case of a puncture.

I did check on eBay, there are a lot of Vulcan 750 wheels on there, especially front ones. Fortunately I gave up on the tire before damaging the wheel, though I did make a few scratches on it. I have never replaced wheel bearings on a Vulcan 750. The ones on my 2002 lasted 118,000 miles and were still working fine. Odd that they were glued in. I've replaced a lot of wheel bearings on bikes, and always knocked them out with a punch (the spacer between the bearings tends to get in the way) and tapped the new ones in with an appropriate size socket and an extension put in the socket backwards.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 01:03 PM
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Is synthetic a good oil for this bike? I always stuck to Amesoil and 3k miles for change intervals.


'89 VN750 Bought stock 4/12/18 @ 17805.9 miles $800. Wrecked once. 27454.5+ miles

Completed modifications:
Removed mufflers, straight pipes out of GB. 110/90 Front Tire. Pick-up coil mod. Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA r/r. USB Outlet + Voltmeter. Repainted Metallic Blue w/ new tank bages. Ear Shave (wo/ coasters) 40/140 NO shims 45MPG. MCCT conversion.

Planned modifications:
Custom LED turn signals. Windshield. Highway Pegs. (Possible) ignition adv. Tuxedo Mod. Ignition coil mod.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 02:00 PM
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Synth isn't a bad idea, I've heard it's especially good for hotter climates (like mine, I live in FL)

I used to run Rotella conventional, but would always get oil pressure issues from air emulsion. Now I run Rotella T6 synthetic and can actually run my oil for more than 2000 miles before getting frothing/emuslion issues and sticky shifting.

It could all be in my head, though. T6 is cheap enough that I don't mind the additional cost once every 12-18 months (I don't ride a ton)

Earshave+Rejet (38/135) – NGK Iridiums – MCCT Conversion – Slipstreamer S03 Windshield – Custom Extended Backrest – Custom Highway Bars – MOSFET R/R – LED Underglow – Volt+USB In-Dash – Two-Wire & Blue-Wire Mod – Satin Black Engine Paint – Dampers Parts - Jets: Main=99101-393(#132 stock)/Pilot=n424-22 Pilot(#38 stock)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2020, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
Synth isn't a bad idea, I've heard it's especially good for hotter climates (like mine, I live in FL)

I used to run Rotella conventional, but would always get oil pressure issues from air emulsion. Now I run Rotella T6 synthetic and can actually run my oil for more than 2000 miles before getting frothing/emuslion issues and sticky shifting.

It could all be in my head, though. T6 is cheap enough that I don't mind the additional cost once every 12-18 months (I don't ride a ton)
I wonder if synthetic shows the air entrainment the way conventional oil does in this engine? Would be interesting to find out.

The air entrainment is what makes the oil look like a milkshake (or blown head gasket) when the engine is shut down before it warms up. First engine I've known to do that, VN750.

I've used Rotella conv. in everything for a long time and swear by it, but I'm considering a switch to synthetic on some engines.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 07:34 AM
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How this turn into another oil thread?

I use Rottella synthetic now too.

As for changing, 3,000 miles for the most part is not necessary, but if you do I’d question spending the extra money for synthetic. It depends more on how many miles you put in a year and where you live.
Generally I suggest changing your oil once a year no matter what kind you use. I do mind in the spring.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 07:42 AM
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How this turn into another oil thread?
EVERY automotive or motorcycle forum thread turns into an oil thread on a long enough timeline
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Earshave+Rejet (38/135) – NGK Iridiums – MCCT Conversion – Slipstreamer S03 Windshield – Custom Extended Backrest – Custom Highway Bars – MOSFET R/R – LED Underglow – Volt+USB In-Dash – Two-Wire & Blue-Wire Mod – Satin Black Engine Paint – Dampers Parts - Jets: Main=99101-393(#132 stock)/Pilot=n424-22 Pilot(#38 stock)
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