Oil - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
the exhaust. If it has to do with the cooling,
engine or exhaust, discuss it here!

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
Wheel weight for $80? I bought a tire from a local independent motorcycle shop, and they installed and balanced it with weights for $20. The reason I bought the tire from them is because I had a brand new mail order tire and could not get the bead to seat. I decided to let them try. They worked on it for at least an hour during the day, and could not get it properly seated either. It held air, but there was a gap between the rim and tire, so I didn't trust it. We both decided it was a defective tire. They didn't charge me anything for the time they spent messing with the original tire. When I got it home I rechecked the balance. They had it real close, But I prefer perfect, so I rebalanced it. Not a believer in liquids and beads. I do carry Ride-On in case of a puncture.

I did check on eBay, there are a lot of Vulcan 750 wheels on there, especially front ones. Fortunately I gave up on the tire before damaging the wheel, though I did make a few scratches on it. I have never replaced wheel bearings on a Vulcan 750. The ones on my 2002 lasted 118,000 miles and were still working fine. Odd that they were glued in. I've replaced a lot of wheel bearings on bikes, and always knocked them out with a punch (the spacer between the bearings tends to get in the way) and tapped the new ones in with an appropriate size socket and an extension put in the socket backwards.
I may have been unclear. I took the wheel assembly to the local Harley shop that charges $99 per hour. One of the circlips that holds the wheel bearing in place snapped both edges past the drilled out hole, and I scratched the hell out of the hub trying to get the clip out. Unfortunately I couldn't. The first place I called was the Kawasaki dealership owned by a family that I would never do business with (McGrath) who wanted $75 to change the tire IF you brought the wheel into them off of the bike. Since I despise them, I went to the Harley/Suzuki dealership called Metro Harley. I was expecting a couple hundred dollar bill. They managed to get the broken circlip out, install the bearings for me, mount the tire and the wheel weight for $75. I then told them I do not want wheel weights and I should've specified, so they said they can install Ride On for $14 a can, so I do not have a wheel weight showing. I was pleased with the price. I was told by another Harley dealership that it is a good practice to change wheel bearings every time you change your tires, so that is the practice I follow. I only have 19,000 on the Kawasaki and they were fine. I had a $1200 repair when the back end went out in the Harley due to a wheel bearing, so I will pay the $30 to redo the bearings with every tire change.
Regarding the O-ring on the plug wires, they were all glued in, so I had to cut the glue... pretty easy stuff. Bike runs much better with iridium plugs, new NGK boots and wires, and an AGM battery. The Vance and Hines aren't on, so there was a blue flame coming out of the exhaust manifold. I also reduced the jets from 42/142 to 40/140. I tried to paint the engine with 2000 degree primer and paint, but it didn't cure yet (needs to get to 200*, hard to do without a tank on the bike) before I spilled gas on it while putting it in the tank because the gas can cap wasn't tight. I will touch that up today:

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?

Last edited by MSattler; 03-13-2020 at 09:05 AM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-13-2020, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubertalldude View Post
Regarding your unanswered posts, they were questions posted in really old threads that hadn't been active in like 6-8 years or so. In cases like that the people involved in the original thread may no longer be active on the forum or see your post asking a question about the topic.

Spark Plug O-Ring - You just gotta get that thing off the old wires. Might take some lube and/or a pick or maybe a replacement o-ring, but you just gotta get it off there.

Wheel Bearing - a puller may help you, and it's free to rent anyhow, but the post seemed to say you could tap it out. Maybe try tapping it our, if it's too stuck you can go rent the puller if need be
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Pittenger View Post
Is synthetic a good oil for this bike? I always stuck to Amesoil and 3k miles for change intervals.
I run it in everything from the wife's Jeep to my BMW. I love it, and none of our vehicles have ever had a problem. Once you switch to synthetic though, you have to keep running it, and shouldn't swap back to conventional.

'08 Road King Classic
'86 VN750:
Ear Shave, K&N Filters, Mean Streak Seat, AGM battery, Blue Wire Mod, Pick-up Coil Mod, Timing Advance Mod, NGK Iridium Plugs and Wire, LEDs, Bed Liner Paint Job, Over-sized Tires, New Brakes, New Fork Seals, Progressive Springs, Kick Stand Mod, Highway Pegs, 40/140 No Shims, Vance & Hines Exhaust, New Grips, Extra Wide Emgo Handle Bars
John 8:44, REV 2:9, REV 3:9 - If you were kicked out of 109 bars, would you think the problem was you, or the 109 bars?
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