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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2020, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well I’m with you. Be it a motorcycle or a car, if I find myself having to keep putting money in it, it gets sold ASAP.

I don’t own a motorcycle to learn about fixing one, I buy it to ride. If it becomes unreliable, I get rid of it, and find another one. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/IMG]
Exactly. I don’t mind tinkering and tweaking things here and there but I have no aspirations of becoming a mechanic. I expected to do more maintenance and less repairs. I always heard Japanese bikes were supposed to be more reliable. I’m one major “WTF” away from a FOR SALE sign.
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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2020, 02:48 PM
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Well as time marches on, your odds of having problems do increase. Not sure what year your bike is, but keep in mind the average Vulcan is about 17 years old. The bike was pretty much unchanged since it release back in 1985 (35 years ago) thus its technology is still dated from then.

More modern Japanese bikes do have a good reputation for reliability. Especially those on the higher price end. The Vulcan was fairly cheap, and given
all the features it came with made it a bargain, so I donít want to say they didnít put much R&D into the bike, but itís possible. There are a few obvious design flaws, like the stator and R/R placement, and the seemingly temperamental and hard to service carburetors.

Itís almost like the bike WAS built to be difficult to work on. Donít get me wrong I loved the bike....when I owned it.

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2020, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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My bike is a 2005, just about as “new” as a 750 can be. I mentioned in the earlier part of the thread that I do like the VN900 custom, preferably 2012 and up. I like the custom more because it has mag wheels, fuel injection doesn’t hurt either, but I believe all the models have that now. I haven’t touched the carbs on my bike and honestly I don’t want to. I put sea foam in this bike like I’m feeding a baby and so far so good.
I’m not sure what you’re considering “higher end” for the price range but what I see those going for is about my highest end. My daughter is still young so dad needs to make sure something is in that college fund as priority 1. I’m not sure I see myself buying a brand new bike ever. Gently used is good enough for me.
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-25-2020, 02:37 PM
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By ďhigher endĒ I mean bikes that they put more $$ into in development and continually upgrade every model year.. Like Goldwings, R-1ís, The larger displacement Ninjas, etc... These tend to be more expensive motorcycles.
My FJR 1300 would be a good example. (MSRP is like $16,000+ now)
They came out in 2003, but thereís been 4 distinct upgrades/generations of changes made to them from then till now.
Compared to the Vulcan that had no major improvements over its lifetime.

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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-25-2020, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Oh ok, I see what you mean. The fact that they made 0 changes to this bike over 21yrs flat out surprised me the first time I heard it. I work in the engineering field (Telecommunications) and change is a constant. You’d hope that would be universal to any form of engineering. I can see them keeping the style and looks, but the technology kept moving forward. No way in hell kawasaki never realized the stator plate cluster f-ck! I’m sure keeping “as-is” was better for their bottom line.
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-25-2020, 11:44 PM
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Sportsters are fun bikes to tinker with, especially carbureted ones. They are one of the most reliable bikes ever made. No internal chains (other than the primary chain which is easily replaced) I love to tinker with both bikes and cars, but am becoming less and less physically able to do so. The Vulcan 750 is a disaster design wise, it has at least twice the parts a motorcycle actually needs. The Vulcan 800 was a major design improvement, but did not come with either tubeless tires or a centerstand, making it worthless to me. It was also not as comfortable. The 900 Custom at least has tubeless tires, but it is an EFI bike. Same as riding a computer on wheels to me. I prefer my computer to stay on my desk. I have two old cars I love to drive and tinker with, both Fords, a 1964 and a 1972. But I find myself having to keep them going, and driving them once a week or so to prevent deterioration. My loss of mobility and serious pain means they will have to go at some point, or I will wind up having to pay someone else to work on them.

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1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-26-2020, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Haha a “computer on wheels”, as I mentioned I’m in the tech field so it would be hard for me to look at technical evolution as a bad thing. There’s a reason why vehicles aren’t carbureted anymore. I can totally understand the tinkering aspect if it’s a hobby but for me there’s certain things in life that I just want to work. Bike being one of them. My TOCs should arrive Thursday so I just need the weather to cooperate so I can install them.
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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-08-2020, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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So I got my TOC MCCTs finally (took longer because of a postal error), I installed them yesterday and tweaked them as expected. The clacking noise is gone so needless to say I’m satisfied there. The noise was clearly coming from the left as you can hear in my video in the first post but I went ahead and changed both. I’m curious what others have used to keep the lock nut tight on the right side. Even with the coolant bottle loose it’s a b-tch. I’ve looked up multiple types of stubby 17mm wrenches but mostly everything I see I’m sure won’t fit.
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 02:00 AM
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Most Japanese bikes from 1985 were super reliable. The Vulcan 750 is just too complex, and not well thought out. It clearly shows signs that the original design was modified several times before final production due to unknown reasons. My first brand new bike, a 1980 Suzuki GS450L, is one of the most reliable bikes ever made. If I had kept it, it would probably still be running. Same with the Kawasaki KZ400 and 440. Very simple well made parallel twins. Inexpensive Japanese bikes from the early '80s were actually more reliable than pretty much any brand new one, due to their quality and simplicity. The Vulcan 750 competed with the Yamaha Virago 750, Honda Shadow 750, and Suzuki Intruder 750 at the time it was released in 1985. All of those other bikes were considerably simpler, and didn't have nearly as many problems. I had 2 Goldwings, an '85 and a '93, and both were nightmares, mostly due to their complexity. At least the '76-'87 models used belt driven cams, and the belts were easy to replace. But you still had to pull the engine to replace the stator.

You have to remove the coolant reservoir to replace the rear cam chain tensioner. Pretty much any common wrench will fit in there just fine. They should have come with thread locker on the threads. If not, use some blue LockTite on them.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike

Last edited by VN750Rider/Jerry; 03-09-2020 at 02:02 AM.
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-09-2020, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmart View Post
So I got my TOC MCCTs finally (took longer because of a postal error), I installed them yesterday and tweaked them as expected. The clacking noise is gone so needless to say Iím satisfied there. The noise was clearly coming from the left as you can hear in my video in the first post but I went ahead and changed both. Iím curious what others have used to keep the lock nut tight on the right side. Even with the coolant bottle loose itís a b-tch. Iíve looked up multiple types of stubby 17mm wrenches but mostly everything I see Iím sure wonít fit.
Could get a cheap wrench from Harbor Frieght and cut it off.

The locknut doesn't have to be super tight, just snug to hold the adjuster from turning.

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