Spewing oil - Page 3 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Engine / Exhaust / Cooling
\ From the radiator, through the case and out
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:42 AM
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Don't add more oil if you already put in 3.5 liters. Normally folks fill the oil filter before installing it.
Unless you live in the desert, you shouldn't be running 20-50w oil.
Manual clearly specifies 10w40.

When you say it's overheating, how far into the red is the needle moving?

I think before splitting the cases I'd make sure the oil isn't getting pumped as Birga suggests. You then should try putting some SeaFoam in the oil and running the motor a bit to see if it clears up the flow.

Are we sure the water pump is working properly? As I mentioned this would effect engine temperature much more drastically than the oil pump.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
Hang on, your oil light turns off when the engine is running, but you get no oil out where the filter screws on if you remove it? I mean, the pump must have been moving SOME oil when you overheated the first time, since the oil sight was reading empty. Even at 7-8 PSI there should be some movement. Just saying the symptoms don't necessarily add up. On the other hand, these other guys are right more often than I am!

The oil light doesn't turn off, it stays on. And I'll check the external lines this evening when I get home. I tried burping it yesterday evening hoping there was an air pocket and almost no oil came out.

KM the engine had no knock prior to the overheat. When I say overheat I mean that the needle was increasing past the thermometer and was at the red line, not into the red zone, when I pulled over. My concern at this point is the engine noises. I dont see any oil leaving the sight glass, even while running

Last edited by Firstbike750; 07-29-2019 at 10:15 AM.
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Firstbike750 View Post
The oil light doesn't turn off, it stays on.
Ok, I thought you previously said the light went off after it was running. I may have misunderstood.

It could be the chain for the oil pump drive has broken. That's known to happen.

Not sure I would try running seafoam, if it has no oil pressure, you're just doing more damage. If it's not pumping out of the oil filter, it's not pumping anywhere.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifemaker View Post
Don't add more oil if you already put in 3.5 liters. Normally folks fill the oil filter before installing it.
Unless you live in the desert, you shouldn't be running 20-50w oil.
Manual clearly specifies 10w40.

When you say it's overheating, how far into the red is the needle moving?

I think before splitting the cases I'd make sure the oil isn't getting pumped as Birga suggests. You then should try putting some SeaFoam in the oil and running the motor a bit to see if it clears up the flow.

Are we sure the water pump is working properly? As I mentioned this would effect engine temperature much more drastically than the oil pump.
As far as the oil weight, I used 20w-50 Mobil1 for V-twins. I thought I read in another post that this was an acceptable weight? As far as the water pump, unsure but I'm sure I'll find out when do the tear down to see whats wrong.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 03:19 PM
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Yup, time for a teardown. Sorry to hear it.

The timeline of the whole thing is fairly mysterious though. Oil pump was obviously working when you pulled over, then failed immediately afterwards. I'd be interested to know what happened when you open it up.

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 04:21 PM
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There's some chance the problem could be the pressure relief valve. A longshot, but still some chance.

The oil light switch threads into the relief valve, which is threaded into the engine block.

The manual states to check the valve by pressing on the internal check ball and see if it moves freely and springs back into place when released.

If the relief valve happens to be stuck open, oil pressure is lost.

Here's a pic of the oil switch and the relief valve: ... pic won't post, so here's the link: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

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Last edited by Spockster; 07-29-2019 at 04:24 PM.
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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So I found it, but I don't see a ball to depress. Did I blow it sky high or am I blind?
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Last edited by Firstbike750; 07-29-2019 at 07:17 PM.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 07:26 PM
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The check ball is inside the part with the long threads.

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Guys, I got no ball. There is a side hole, I took bad pictures, sorry for the confusion
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Last edited by Firstbike750; 07-29-2019 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Better pictures!
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 07:46 PM
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Looks like that's just a pass-through, not a relief valve. Maybe some years are different on that detail.

Here's a shot of a vn750 valve with the ball. Looks like it would just vent out the side onto the ground in an over-pressure situation, or if the ball were stuck. You'd be losing oil out the side if this part were the problem (unless there's a blockage in the tubing).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ka...8e6c055e024b01

Mine is the same as yours, with no side hole.

EDIT - The Haynes manual lists that part as 'switch fitting/union bolt', and shows no hole.

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Last edited by Thorn; 07-29-2019 at 07:51 PM.
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