Weird engine issue today - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Weird engine issue today

Was driving down highway, had gone about 110miles since last fill-up, gas was low but not out. Moto stalled about 60mph. I was running peacock reserve. Oil light came on. Of course I squeeze the clutch and coast to a stop. Walked around moto. Shook gas tank wobbling from side to side. Restarted the moto after about 2 to 5 min. Rode the rest of the way home, about 9miles. Fuel gauge wasnt on empty. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there something I should be looking for? I checked it again when I got home. No fluids leaking, nothing unusual, all wires ok. Just spooked me. I have re-filled it (93 octane). Also, is it normal when the moto is off to be able to go from 1st to neutral without squeezing the clutch? I thought that was odd, but I did check clutch cable while looking over the other issue, and discovered I can switch between neutral to 1st and vice versa with the moto off and not squeezing clutch....
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:29 PM
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This is known as the Phantom Out Of Gas Syndrom or POOGS for short. Check the sticky threads for info.

Long story short, the gas tank vent isn't venting properly and it is developing a vacuum. This starves the engine of gas....and dead.

Quick, on-the-road fix is to open and close the gas gap. Long term fix is in the sticky.

The shifting is normal. With well timed throttle inputs, its possible to downshift without the clutch.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the reply. I'll look for that sticky tomorrow when I'm at laptop.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
...re-filled it (93 octane)...
93 octane won't help this engine, and will lead to carbon buildup, reduced power, and harder starts.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
93 octane won't help this engine, and will lead to carbon buildup, reduced power, and harder starts.
would like to add if you ride regularly (at least once a week for at least 15 miles) you can use 'standard' fuel (up to 10% ethanol) without much issue. if your riding less than that, it may be a good idea to search out ethanol free fuel and pay the extra few cents a gallon they charge.

I rode daily every day I had mine with 10% ethanol and never had an ethanol related issue. its when the ethanol sits in the carbs that the bad stuff happens

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:12 PM
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When you finally sit down to perform this procedure, make sure that you have a clean place to lay out the parts. As I remember there are a few small parts that can easily go "boing" off that-a-way, so you want to be able to cleanly/clearly lay out the parts for easy re-assembly.

Its not difficult at all. Buy yourself one of those compressed air cans used normally to blow out crud from your computer keyboard.

I cleaned out my system 4 or 5 years back and haven't had an issue since.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't had time to read the sticky yet. I ride this moto 66 miles a day when its sunny. 33 miles to amd from work. I've been using high octane, would love to use the cheaper stuff. I live southern east coast, most weeks I get between 2 to 4 days of riding in a week.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:06 PM
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Common sense would dictate that higher priced fuels must be better. They call it "premium" after all. But that isn't the case. The difference is that higher octane will not pre-ignite in high compression engines. We don't have that issue so our bikes actually run better with regular gas.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:10 PM
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Definitely switch to "regular" gas. That has nothing to do with POOGS, though.

Your tank ventilation "system" sometimes simply gets clogged. As Jason alluded to, when this happens as the fuel level drops through usage, a vacuum is formed due to it not being able to suck in air to replace the volume in the tank where there used to be liquid fuel. Eventually, the vacuum is strong enough to stop the flow of fuel completely.

So, as you'll read about, the procedure has you cleaning up the very small passages where air should flow. Don't forget to check the very bottom of the rubber hose that goes down underneath the bike. Sometimes this get goobered up by crud on the road. It needs to be open and free flowing.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:21 PM
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If you have a CA model with an evap system, that needs to go. Nothing but trouble. Remove the seat. If there are 2 nipples on the rear of the tank, remove both, and that will solve the venting problem. If you only have one, connect a hose to it, and run it down below the bike. Make sure the lower end is open. Take the gas cap apart and remove everything you can get out of it. Notice that there is a small rubber grommet behind the filler hole that a projection on the back side of the cap goes into. That is the vent. Ethanol gas will melt those little rubber grommets, and no air will get through them. You can't just remove it, because gas will leak all over the top of the tank when full. You have to replace it. If you have to use ethanol gas, but 3 or 4 of them. On the Vulcan, I have had that part, the petcock, and the coasting enrichener diaphragms destroyed by ethanol gas. Fortunately the petcock is rebuildable. Honda petcocks are riveted together, and are very expensive. DO NOT leave ethanol gas in the tank for more than a month. If you don't ride enough to go through a tank of gas a month, drain the gas out and refill it with fresh gas at least once a month. Pour the old gas in a car. With the stock petcock, you will need a vacuum source to drain the tank. I have heard that a Yamaha TW200 petcock will fit. That might be a good option. You don't need to remove any hoses from the petcock to drain the tank. Stick a small diameter vacuum line on the bottom of each carb float bowl, and stick the other ends into a gas can, and loosen the carb drain screws and let the gas drain through the carbs. Yes, it's a bit of trouble, but the last thing you want to happen is to have to remove the carbs and clean them. It's a nightmare of a job.

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