Drained oil for a week now bike knocks at 3000rpm - Page 2 - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 10:42 PM
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It gets super hot in AZ. 118 degrees is not uncommon during the summer. And it never gets below freezing where I live. The oil fill cap says 10w40. But if you look in the owners manual (I don't know where mine is at the moment) there is a temperature chart in there that shows which oils can be used in what temperature ranges, and it shows 20w50 covers the widest range of temperatures, far below anything I would think anyone would be riding in. I use it because it provides better protection for the engine. It has a higher film strength than lighter oils so it is less likely to break down and allow metal to metal contact. Also, because it is thicker, it stays on vertical surfaces longer than a thinner oil. I have put 190,000 miles on two Vulcan 750s, and never had a problem with it. I have owned more than 50 bikes total, and used it in every one of them. Again no problems. It's the only weight oil Harley Davidson recommends. You also need to be careful using lightweight oils because some of them are Energy Conserving, and can damage a wet clutch. While it does not specifically say so, the main reason all manufacturers recommend the lightest oil they think they can get away with is to save a mile or two per gallon in gas mileage, rather than make the engine last longer. You can thank the EPA for that.

As for the filters, K&N OIL filters may be fine. K&N air filters are crap. They are marketed as a "high flow" filter, and because they flow more air, they also flow more dirt. They also lean out the air/fuel mixture, which is already too lean on a stock engine from the factory. You can rejet to compensate for that, but if you are looking for more power, you won't get any noticeable power increase out of it. I prefer a reliable long lived engine. You can also blame the EPA for the too lean jetting.

As for Fram oil filters, I personally know of two car engines that were destroyed by them. The element came unglued from the can and plugged up the oil passages. Watch this video about oil filters. You'll see what I mean
There are plenty more videos like it.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 03:22 PM
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Most people have found that their Vulcans DO NOT LIKE 20/50. Shifting and clutch issues,rough running, etc.etc.etc.A lot of us run Rotella 15/w40. What we really need is another oil discussion.lol

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 04:03 PM
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What's that? We need another oil thread? I'll go start one right away!

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:31 PM
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I figured maybe 5w40 was a typo for 15w40. Rotella, of course.

Had a father-in-law that insisted you had to wait five minutes to read a dipstick, to allow the oil to collect on the stick.

He also placed a level on the engine before checking oil. He knew which car needed plywood under a tire.

He would probably let one drain for week, if you let him.

He bought a brand new car, a 5spd. 2nd and 4th gears were never used. 1-3-5 every time. And if you drove it, you damn well better not screw up his gas mileage by using 2nd and 4th!
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorn View Post
What's that? We need another oil thread? I'll go start one right away!
How about two?

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lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 01:20 PM
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On page 62 of the owners manual, it says the following oils can be used:
10w40
10w50
20w40
20w50

Oil capacity is 4.2 qts. when changing the filter.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VN750Rider/Jerry View Post
On page 62 of the owners manual, it says the following oils can be used:

10w40

10w50

20w40

20w50



Oil capacity is 4.2 qts. when changing the filter.
Yes and every motor is different. Some have had good luck with 20w50, yourself included. But the majority seem to like 10w40, as I've seen from posts on here. It all depends on break in, usage over time, and what oil is consistently used. If the bike has been ridden for 40,000 miles on 10w40, most likely it won't like 20w50, and vice versa.

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lowered with progessive 412 10" shocks
rejetted for K/N Pods part#rc 2340
sportster seat

'I didn't lose my mind.i gave it away

BRING BACK WOLFIE."Peace and Carrots"RIP
"And I'm free...as a bird"John Lennon Free as a Bird
"I only carry when I have my pants on"Joe Robinson RIP aka Old Dog
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Well... that was not a typo. I guess for last 13 years I was riding on this $20 per gallon oil: Rotella T6 5W40. Why did I ever do that? Read somewhere that this will be excellent. Anyhow, whats done is done. What am I up to now? I like the bike was great to me for all those years. Never found a spec of metal on the filter. Changed oil once per year regularly. Used K&M filters. Guys, what shall I do now?
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 08:30 PM
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Yeah, I'm running 5W40 Shell Rotella Synthetic, too. Seems to be OK. . . .

The only thing that I notice is that the clutch *really* grabs when the motor is cold? I'm thinking that maybe I should try another oil on the next change to see if that makes any difference.

You all think the 5W40 might be causing the clutch to be grabby like that? Maybe the oil doesn't really matter?

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 10:51 PM
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15w40 would be ok unless it is really hot. The older an engine gets, the more wear it has, and the looser the clearances are, such as the crank bearings and the con rod big end bearings. You need a thicker oil for a high mileage engine to help fill in those looser clearances. But weight of the oil did not cause this problem. Neither did overfilling, especially if you changed the filter. I've always just poured a gallon in mine, and it comes out perfect, with just a tiny bubble at the top of the sight glass. All VN750 engines are built exactly the same. Some (probably most) have been modified to some extent, but nothing that would change oil capacity. This is something else.

I remember when I had a Kawasaki EX500, and belonged to the EX500 forum. There were a couple of cases where the bike was dropped, then picked up, started, and ridden away. Shortly thereafter the engines seized up from lack of oil pressure. Apparently while the bike was on it's side, the oil pump lost prime, and did not start pumping again right away. You didn't say anything about dropping your bike, but you did leave the drain plug out for a week. Did the OIL light go out as soon as you started it after changing the oil? Also, the Vulcan 750 has hydraulic lifters. Maybe yours are leaking. But I've let mine sit for as much as 2 weeks (with oil in it) and never had a problem. That sounds more like a clanging sound rather that a bearing knock or a cam chain rattle. You also said it did not make a noise at low RPM. Cam chains and bad bearings will both make noise at idle.

I am a motorcyclist, NOT a biker.


1997 Vulcan 750, purchased about a week ago
2006 Sportster 1200 Low
2013 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, converted to carb
2001 Yamaha XT225, heavily modified
2004 Honda Rebel 250
1979 Vespa P200E
2002 Vulcan 750 parts bike
1994 Yamaha XT225 parts bike
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