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Random hose and Clutch killing bike

1K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  K2unit3d 
#1 ·
Alright all you Vulcan lovers out there. Im the FNG here and I got some questions.

But first let me say this site is AWESOME and all the help you guys have given over the years leads me to believe this is the best biker forum out there. Now on to the story

I got my 91 Vulcan about 2 weeks ago (bought it from a guy that said it had cooling problems after about 30 minutes which is initally how I found the site great deal on the bike) and still havent rode it yet😞. Me and a long time biker buddy of mine trailered it home because I didnt want to ride it a little over an hour back to my house. He didnt have his trailer set up for bikes so we went ahead and layed her on her side amd strapped down real good. Just mentioning this part so my bike can be diagnosed by you carb doctors. No issues on the way and the bike started but at the time it was roughly 20-30 weather and the guy had let it sit for a while so I could only get it to start with the choke on. I did the seafoam in the tank/carbs and ended up slowly backing the choke off over a week and a half and finally got it running without choke for maybe 3 seconds and it dies...NO GAS😡 at least not enough to get it to run I thought so I went and got 1 gallon and put it in with more Seafoam of course and noticed I had some leaks around my fuel lines after I started it (back on choke btw)...Upon buying new clamps/some more hose I discovered a hose at the front of my bike down by the oil filter that runs up by the right ear/air filter when sitting on the bike. Does that hose go to the nipple on top of the carbs because thats I can think of? Also I used to be able to pull and let the clutch out no problem but now it just kills the battery in neutral. Oh please great gurus of the Vulcan. Help me in my time of need so that I may enjoy my baby on the open road like I shouldve gotten to do from the jump😡...I know its my fault lol

Also I noticed the black plastic fat tube that goes on the left side carb was on at an angle so I got that set on and clamped down all the way. Its the pne that keeps you from getting to the right side carb fuel hose
 

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#2 ·
The Bike has some circuitry to avoid you pulling off with the side stand down, switches in clutch, sidestand and neutral are in the circuit. Sounds like that is why she dies when you pull the clutch in.

Carbs have three pipe connections each, fuel in, float chamber vent out and vacuum port. Float chamber vents are in between carbs, teed together and the long hose from the t tucked into a hole on the right ear. Fuel in is obvious, the bigger black plastic pipes. Carb vacuum comes from the side of the carb close to the inlet, left goes to operate the fuel valve, right goes to the valve controlling air flow to the reed valves that are supposed to stop popping on deceleration.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I hope I replied the right way. Yeah I looked it up and almost everything I read said the bike will die if the kickstand is down and you try to take off in first but with it being in neutral Im still confued as to why it does. Could be an issue with a switch somewhere or the combination of said safety switches. Ill try it again today after I get home.

Ok so the long black hose that doesnt hook to anything should go on the carb T? I may have misread your message so just trying to clarify. Btw thanks for explaining that to me. Former diesel mechanic in the Marines but my bike gives me trouble

*UPDATE*

So got the vent hose back on to close of the T in between the carbs. However the clutch drops the rpms a tiny bit so if I dont have at least 25-30% choke, itll die out. Also when I roll on my throttle itll drop rpms too which didnt use to happen when I first got it to fire up. I would assume itd be the carbs but that shouldnt be the case since I was able to roll on the throttle no problem before. What does everyone else think.
 
#4 ·
Progress!

I would suspect Carbs are the issue, they pretty much always the primary suspect for performance issues. Clutch on these is "wet" - runs in the engine oil, so cold and or goopy oil will make the clutch drag a little.

A lot of folks disable/remove the nanny switches, mine have saved me at least once from public embarrassment in a gas station.....

Thank you for your service.
 
#5 ·
Lol of course. Ive been drwading this but since yesterday Im rrady to just dive in and get it done. I know theres alot patience needed and I may have a drink or 5 but I want to be up and riding by next week. Got a thread here of rebuild kits that cone from Canada that are less inexpensive than alot of others Ive seen so I guess Ill be breaking the carbs down twice which only gives more experience as how Im looking at it. Ive heard of guys changing their oil to make the clutch problem go away, but in the picture I linked (which I also have the chatter at times) changing out the clutch springs may get rid of the problem as well. What do you think?

Wait howd it save you? Story time😁 ...I honestly might disable them. Would you happen to know how or could point me in the right direction of instructions?
 
#7 ·
Pull in to gas station, put bike on side stand to get off, remove gloves. Put bike on center stand to better fill tank all the way. Jump on bike, put on gloves, rock off center stand, start bike and attempt to drive away,...............
 
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