No oil showing while running - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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No oil showing while running

I'm getting ready to do the spline lube. I'm expecting the new O-rings to arrive in a few days. I have everything else prepared. I have the bike on the center stand right now. I went out and started the engine today to let it warm up and run for a little while. When its sitting cold, the oil level looks good. It's close to High. I start the engine and it drops completely out of sight. I feel like that should be expected, as its cold and then is pulled to circulate. But I let it sit idling for about 15 minutes, and it was well warmed when I went back out to shut her down. I checked the oil level again before shutting her down and the window was still clear. No oil showing. The oil light never came on. After I shut it down, the oil level slowly started to rise to about half way. Is this normal? At what point do check the oil level for the actual measurement?

Im going to just change the oil too. I'll use the Shell 10W40 everyone here talks about. It was perfect when I got it, but I had the MC shop change the oil after about a month and the Coffee grinder started soon after. I know it's common, but it didnt do it at all when I first got it.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Also, for the spline lube, this may be a dumb question. I didnt see it in the instructions, but it could be because it goes without saying... but do I need to drain the differential fluid before removing the final drive?
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 09:48 AM
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It's normal for the sight glass to go dry while running. I forget the exact procedure for checking the oil level, but I just check it before startup and allow some room for expansion. You can download Owner's and Repair manuals from links in my signature.

You may also notice that after running a couple of minutes, the oil looks milky in the sight glass, like it has water in it. This is normal, and caused by air bubbles in the oil. It goes away once warmed up.

Don't need to drain the grease from the final drive for the spline lube.

Coffee grinder - The shop may have had the engine running just before you picked the bike up. Coffee grinder occurs when cool.

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 12:02 PM
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What do you mean by download from your signature? Where did you sign and where do I find this ?

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
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What do you mean by download from your signature? Where did you sign and where do I find this ?
One's "signature" is the information that shows at the bottom of each post.

At this point for me it's the "uncle Bob" quote.
I intend to add other stuff later. It can be done at your profile page or related pages.

At the bottom of every one of Spockster's posts are two links for the manuals.
Click on them to go for downloads.

"I need yo clothes, yo boots and yo motocycle."- Uncle Bob
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 02:18 PM
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You might not see signatures if you're using a phone, or if sigs are turned off in your User CP. Here's the links:

Owner's - http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf

Repair/Parts - http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, that's good news then! So as soon as I read your response...I ran out and took her for a ride. It was 48 degrees today and it's been 3 weeks since I've ridden. So I had to take advantage of the tolerable temperature. But once I knew the oil level was good, I went out. I did expect the oil level to settle a bit as it warmed up. So that's interesting to find that out. Thanks for the response and for the links.

This is my first motorcycle. Do you check a MC tire pressure with the same tools as you would any old car tire? Can I just go to a gas station and use the air pump to check the pressure and fill as needed?

Ok, so it's a 2004 with 4300 miles. I'm not expecting the splines to be well lubed, but I also dont think I'll find a lot of wear on them. Im a bit nervous about the project but I'm sure I'll figure it out. I plan to take a video of the process to put up on youtube. I have no intention of pretending I'm an expert, but I think it would help to see someone inexperienced running into the unexpected problems that a newb would experience. And taking note of the info a master might take for granted.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:29 PM
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yes, tire pressures are done the same as a car, although, the rear stem can sometimes be hard to get a gauge or air hose on, due to the small clearance.

its not the 'wear' thats the problem with the splines, its the rust that forms when they dont have proper lube. that in turn causes more wear

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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I hear ya. I've been looking on ebay just in case... just to see what's available to me should I find a worst case. I knew rust was a concern, but I guess I thought I'd only need to replace the final drive or shaft if the teeth were worn.

We'll see, I'll post pics when I get in there and ya'll can chime in on the condition if I have any doubts.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 08:00 AM
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when I had to do mine (2005 that had 30k +) I looked and looked for an 'affordable' coupling (the part on driveshaft that wears) and was able to find a complete driveshaft for 1/2 the price of just a new coupler. I also did need to replace the rear bevel, they do tend to wear out at the same time..

I also did the full driveshaft replacement because it takes a pretty 'special' snap ring plier to get the snap ring out. I didnt have one like that, and since it was still cheaper to get the full driveshaft than a coupler and the the plier (which by themselves is not expensive).

as I said, wear will occur normally, but with lube its pretty minimal. however, when there is no lube, and they start to rust, you might as well put the splines and coupler on a grinding wheel. they wont last long

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