Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Maryland
Right on man. Thanks for the reply. I just did the lube job this afternoon. And it looked like someone took the time to lube it before. Although there wasn't much Molly in the coupling, it certainly wasn't dry. And the o-ring looked beautiful on the final drive, but I replaced it with the new one anyway. I left the coupling on since the teeth looked perfect. I did pull the drive shaft off the front splines and put molly on that, even though it said it wasn't necessary. And I sprayed the U joint down with the WL grease I bought. Everything went smoothly except I had to take the right muffler off. It only took 2 extra minutes but it was absolutely in my way. I couldn't see a way around it. Ok, here was my only problem:
I had trouble getting the axle nut back on. It would NOT go on smoothly. There was WAY too much resistance. So I couldn't torque it because I couldn't tell if it was just the thread resistance. So I tightened it as much as I could and then backed it off until the wheel could spin freely. I immediately purchased a replacement axle shaft and nut off of ebay. It'll take a week to get here. I test drove it around the neighborhood, only in 1st and 2nd gear and it feels perfectly normal. What do you think? I got it into position, the wheel spins freely, the rear brakes are working, and the cotter pin is in place. Its definitely not less than 80 ft-lbs. I just dont know if its TOO tight. Like I said, i backed it off until there was no resistance on the wheel's spin. Should be safe, right?
I wonder if I damaged the bolt threads when I was removing it. I can't imagine though because I was using a rubber mallet. But it's possible. It came off smoothly though. So something HAD to have happened after I removed it.
These pics are what I found when I opened it up.