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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Poor Running Engine

Hey All,

I'm new to the posting thing, but have read quite a few articles so far. I have a question that hopefully someone else has experienced.

I have just replaced the stator (did the cut frame method, I'll post my process soon to give back to the forum), but my bike still has a problem. It's a 1995 with 14k miles.

At around 3000 rpm, or an equivalent load at a lower rpm , click clear up to full throttle, it acts as if a cylinder isn't firing. Checked plugs and none seem foaled but will still replace as a first attempt that's cheap.

Would anyone have any idea as to possible causes, whether it be a timing issue, ignition issue, or fuel issue. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:44 PM
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Most common is a dirty carb, clogged jets.

Is this all stock, with stock air intake? Carb vents routed to the correct spot on one of the filter housings? Wind on the vents can cause the same problem.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spockster View Post
Most common is a dirty carb, clogged jets.

Is this all stock, with stock air intake? Carb vents routed to the correct spot on one of the filter housings? Wind on the vents can cause the same problem.
Ditto

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 02:19 PM
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This is the problem you were having before the replacement of the stator?
Does this happen while your riding? Does it also happen while your not?

2000 VN750
Digital voltmeter
Lubed spline (5k)
New tires (5k)
Pick up coils to .20mm
K&N air&oil filters
Relocate R&R
2 wire mod
Iridium plugs (7.2k)
Change oil and filter (8.6k)
Removal of the CA emissions (7.3k)
Cap Reed valves off the engine (7.3k)
Redesign stock seat (8k)
Change Engine Ice (8k)
Install KLR650 bars (8.3k)
Change final drive oil (8.3k)
Install power source & phone mount (8.5k)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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It started doing it about 2 weeks before I replaced the stator. Everything is still stock. It happens when I'm riding, and if it is sitting there idling and I crack the throttle, I can feel it sputter a bit as I do. When I am riding down in the 1000-2500 rpm range, it acts normal. But once I start giving it more, it gets sputtery. I didn't mention earlier that when I pulled plugs, some were wet, so I know that it is not firing occasionally. I can get back later today on if its one side or one cylinder or all plugs that are wet, as I don't remember right now off the bat which ones they precisely were.

It starts and idles perfect. Just acts up when it begins to see load/higher rpm.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 07:34 PM
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Try opening the gas cap.

2000 VN750
Digital voltmeter
Lubed spline (5k)
New tires (5k)
Pick up coils to .20mm
K&N air&oil filters
Relocate R&R
2 wire mod
Iridium plugs (7.2k)
Change oil and filter (8.6k)
Removal of the CA emissions (7.3k)
Cap Reed valves off the engine (7.3k)
Redesign stock seat (8k)
Change Engine Ice (8k)
Install KLR650 bars (8.3k)
Change final drive oil (8.3k)
Install power source & phone mount (8.5k)
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 08:36 PM
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May be flooding out from a sticky float needle.look up Wolfie's back blow method in the sticky section of the carburation board

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick FYI, my bike is at home where I can work on it, but my dad is doing the checking for the time being until I can get back to it.

Gas cap was removed and it did not seem to make any difference.

I plan on diving into the carbs a bit the next chance I can get back to work on it, but before I do, my dad is kinda set on the idea that it is a timing/ignition issue. By the way I originally describe it, is there anything that stands out that may suggest such a problem?

If there are any more details that you would need, feel free to ask.

Thanks
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry Doc, was writing my last reply when you just replied.

Would it be sticking just at the certain level, but then return to normal so quickly once the throttle is back down in the lower range? And when the bike is at full throttle, shouldn't it negate a sticky needle because its using the largest amount of fuel? Also, should the bowls be flooded if the needle sticks? I have no issues of leaking fuel (which is already one plus over my old bike).
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