Engine oil leak - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
GDI
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Engine oil leak

So, stator is fixed, replaced mirrors, replaced left-side ear that was messed up from PO, added forwards. Bike is running good except it likes to mark its territory with a drip. I've already replaced the spark-plug well o-ring on the front cylinder, and that helped a lot. Drip is right under the side-stand. Looks like maybe the stator job wasn't done as well as I'd hoped? Put new gasket on with Yamabond on one side of the gasket only and torqued the bolts nice and tight. Also replaced shift-shaft seal. . . . Not even sure where the oil is coming from at this point.

Saw this

https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine...-oil-leak.html


thread where a guy tried the Bar's Stop Leak. Thread really didn't seem to have any follow-up, so don't know if things went sideways or if the leak stopped or anything. . . . Just searched the web and found this

https://barsleaks.com/product/oil-se...g-leak-repair/


link where they say "motorcycles (including wet clutch)", so was toying with the idea of trying it. . . . Seems like it may not be worth the risk. It has been a really slow leak--probably one or two drops each time I park the bike. I guess I need to get under there and try to track it down a little more before I take such desperate measures? Also running the Shell Rotella 5W40 Synthetic. Wouldn't think that has much to do with it as was leaking when I bought it.

Anybody else have this problem and try the Bars stop leak on a wet-clutch?

GDI
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018, 11:44 AM
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Haven't tried the leak stopper products, but I'm a fan of the UV dye.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Got a little ahead of myself, probably. Seems like the outer cover is the culprit. Tipped the bike over to the right, pulled the cover, wiped 'er down w/ brake cleaner, and gobbed some RTV on all the o-rings. Have it sitting waiting for the hour to be up before final torqueing. Will wait until tomorrow to ride, and see then if it made any difference. . . . Seemed like the oil was concentrated all around that outer cover, though--kind of hard to say. Wind can move oil around pretty good.

GDI
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-22-2018, 12:55 PM
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Sounds like you may have it fixed.

I'm leery of stop leak for oil, though I have used for coolant with no problems, but not on the bike.

Oil stop leak either relies on swelling up rubber seals, or hardening in places that it contacts air or leaks out. This engine has so many oil passages, and some are relatively small. We work so hard keeping sludge out of our engines, I hate to add to it or block/restrict a critical passage in the heads, rod bearings, etc.

I've seen engines and trans. in which over-applied rtv has migrated throughout. Makes a helluva wreck.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-22-2018, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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The good news is the leak is fixed! Took the bike on a ride today, and worked 'er pretty hard. Would have normally left a few spots, but nothing.

I am the guy that uses a little too much product sometimes, though. Hope I didn't get too much RTV in there! I did do the wipe around the inside of the big o-ring before buttoning 'er up and left 'er sit overnight without starting it. Hopefully it'll be forgiving.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-22-2018, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDI View Post
The good news is the leak is fixed! Took the bike on a ride today, and worked 'er pretty hard. Would have normally left a few spots, but nothing.

I am the guy that uses a little too much product sometimes, though. Hope I didn't get too much RTV in there! I did do the wipe around the inside of the big o-ring before buttoning 'er up and left 'er sit overnight without starting it. Hopefully it'll be forgiving.

GDI
You probably did fine, I just mentioned it in relation to clogging oil flow with stop leak.

I've seen slivers of silicone clog carbs and auto transmissions, causing big problems. But the worst was a Ford V8, it looked like they used a full bead from the open top of the tube or heavily coated the whole gasket surface. The engine had big discs of silicone which had spun around the pushrods, clots in the oil drainback holes, a big silicone cookie in the oil pump screen with wads in the oil pump gears.

They must have fired it up right after the last bolt was in the valve covers.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 05:18 PM
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Hi guys, just bought my 95' 750 and i got some oil leak, it comes from a bottom engine bolt, which is near the oil drain plug. How can i fix it?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
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Hi guys, just bought my 95' 750 and i got some oil leak, it comes from a bottom engine bolt, which is near the oil drain plug. How can i fix it?
Make sure it has the washer on the drain plug. Hopefully the threads aren't stripped.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Oil leaks can be hard to track down. The best thing is to clean things up real good, so you can tell for sure where it's coming from. There is another common leak on these bikes that originates from the spark-plug wells. There are a number of threads on that subject if you search. My '03 was leaking pretty bad from there as well.

It's a pain, but leaks are fixable-you just have to be persistent in tracking them down.

good luck,

GDI
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
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There is another common leak on these bikes that originates from the spark-plug wells.


GDI
Checked them before buying, spark plug drain looks dry.
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