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rekeying helmet locks

18K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  wib714 
#1 · (Edited)
rekeying helmet locks, now with pics and write-up!

has anyone else done this yet. I had no problem picking the lock using the raking method. got the lock halfway apart but don't see how to get the cylinder out to rekey it. if I can get it apart and rekeyed I would like to do a full write up on it with pics to help anyone else with this problem. instead of purchasing new helmet locks this will only cost one tiny bent screwdriver out of a one dollar jewellers screwdriver set.
 
#2 ·
Did you search try the forum search? I ask because I saw a thread here not long ago, (when I was just wandering around reading stuff) that was done by someone who did this and explained it. I can't remember the title, the forum, or who it was by though....
 
#3 ·
Is this the one you mean.........?

You can also rekey the helmet locks to match your ignition key.
(From the Yahoo Group files..)
Notes from Lance (lostiguy) on re-keying locks:



I was able to "rekey" my new Kaw toolbox
lock on my own. It's really easy. I'm passing on the link to the
page someone else had once passed on to me:

http://home.howstuffworks.com/lock-picking2.htm

I took the tumbler and pins out, rearranged the pins in the
order that suited my ignition key the best I could, using
all but one pin. So I left that pin out of the new arrangement.
Works fine. In 15 min, I was done, ...and now using my
original Kaw key.
__________________
Dianna
Conway, AR
Patriot Guard Rider
2000 VN750 Sere (Serendipity)
1990 GL1500 (Ole Blue)
1986 VN750 EVie (project bike, heavy custom)
Vroc # 11628 TNVROC # 45 (H) ARVROC # 7
 
#4 ·
I used that thread to pick the locks, I just dont see how to get the tumbler out of the lock now.
 
#6 ·
that thread shows you how to pick the lock but does not show you how to get the tumbler and pins out of the lock. on the back side of the lock there is a black plastic cap with one screw in it, once you remove that there is a gear that comes right out and then you can slide the shaft out that holds the helmet. after that is where I am stuck, it almost looks like a snap ring but is solid and there is no way I see to get it off the slot it is in.
 
#7 ·
still no luck on getting these apart. anyone else ever rekey theirs?
 
#8 ·
Yes I have done this before. There is a sping loaded tab in the cylinder. You should see it once you take the gear off the back. You need to use a pick onr something to push the tab in. Then the lock cylinder will come put of the end you put the key in.
 
#9 ·
I dont see a spring loaded tab so still no luck.
 
#11 · (Edited)
allright!!!!!! I got my lock rekeyed! will try to do a full write up on it tomorrow when I have more time and light to take some pics. I think the problem with mine is either the springs were wore out or it could have been the key or the pins in the lock, although if it were the key being wore I think I would have ignition and tank problems as well. so in one lock I had to reposition one pin and take one pin out altogether and lock works fine. the other lock however I had to take three pins out leaving only one, so it is not nearly as safe to use as the other one but I really don't think it is a problem because a thief will not know there is only one pin in it. if I were really worried about it I think the pin could be filed a little bit and you could still use all four. I will explain that more in my write up.
Thanks Jamie b for your input, after a little playing around I finally figured out the springloaded part although it does not look like that part will move a bit it does. big help. hopefully the write up will make the verses for anyone else needing help on this problem.
Why buy new locks when you can still use the old ones unless you want chrome grip locks or something the money spent on new locks can go elsewhere like a windshield, floorboards or something else really noticeable or functional or just DANG PRETTY!
 
#12 · (Edited)
I will try to get better pics if someone needs them as all I have right now is my camera phone but hope this helps.

tools needed- I bought this jewellers screwdriver set for a dollar at a dollar store.



Take the 3/64 flathead and bend the tip of it to form a dental pick.



use the 9/64 to turn the lock to keep pressure on the pins as you rake them.



use the dental pick you made, insert all the way into the lock with the point up and keeping upward pressure on it pull it out slowly to push the pins up, if you keep turning pressure with the large screwdriver the pins will stay up. you may have to rake it a few times to get all the pins. there should be four of them. when you get all the pins up the lock should turn. remove the lock from the bike with a large phillips head.


next put the lock back to the locked position. remove the phillips head screw on back of lock and remove the plastic piece and the gold gear inside







this should be what you see now, with the lock in this position you will see a silver washer with a slot in it, underneath that you will see a gold pin about a quarter inch wide at the top of the lock, this is where I got stuck. taking a 5/64 flathead screwdriver start at the left of it and slip it between that pin and the wall of the lock, you will see it spring towards the center of the lock till you cant see it any more, push on the center of the lock cylinder pushing it out the side the key goes in.



next you will find five pins with springs in each. the last one being larger than the rest (this is the one that holds the lock in the cylinder.

remove the four smaller pins and springs. you'll have 4 pins and 6 slots, one at a time put a spring and pin in a slot and then try the key, with the key out part of the pin will be exposed out of the cylinder, when you put the key in it should make the pin flush with the cylinder, if it does leave that pin and move on to the next one. if it doesn't take the pin out of that slot and try another until you get them all or as many as possible to work.
any questions or troubles I would be more than happy to help you with up to and including pm'ing you my cell# if need be for a fellow vn750 member.

Hope this helps anyone who needs it!
 
#13 ·
oh yeah, if it does help. let me know. I'm sure it would work on a tank lock too if need be.
 
#15 ·
I'm glad it helped, and I thought the same thing. I got to use mine at walmart today, sure beat carrying my helmet around inside there!
 
#16 ·
Hey, Thanks for the great info! :smiley_th

Tonight I was able to single key my bike. Only wound up having to remove one pin on the toolbox lock. One point, probably completely obvious, but I figured I'd mention it anyway; no need to rake the lock if you have the key in hand.

Thanks again! No more listening to the second key rattle around while I ride!
 
#18 ·
I don`t know if the pins in a house door lock are the same diameter as our bike locks or not. I get new locks rekeyed at the local hardware store to match the key on my keyring. Most places that sell door locks, should have some one who can rekey them. Try taking your dismantled tumbler and pins in, to see if they have any pins that will work in your lock. JM2cents W
 
#19 ·
I know it is a way old thread but it came in so handy today on my Son's bike we are fixing up as I was able to rake the locks to get them open so I could remove them (2 as he has one per side of his sissybar backrest) and re-tumbler them so it would work with his ignition key as the prior owner had lost the key to them.

Thanks!
 
#20 ·
great help!

this is great. looks like it works for the tool box too. i just found this site and jointed 20 minutes ago. already (hopefully) found the answer to my question.
 
#21 ·
this is great. looks like it works for the tool box too. i just found this site and jointed 20 minutes ago. already (hopefully) found the answer to my question.
Im sure you will find the site very useful, welcome to the forums Drew!
 
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