Ma Kaw's F&S engine guard prevents upshifts on my motor - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Ma Kaw's F&S engine guard prevents upshifts on my motor

When I got back to riding last season after missing 4 riding seasons due to an accident, I had to rotate the shift lever up one spline. This was necessary because my ankle is not as flexible as it used to be, and also I now have a 3/4" lift in the sole of my left shoe. Therefore I could not get my toe under the shift lever "pedal" to upshift until I rotated it up one spline.

I finally got the engine guard and highway pegs mounted on the bike, then discovered on the test ride that I could not shift into second gear due to clearance issues with the engine guard. I am curious to know if anyone else has had a similar problem, and what you did to get around it.

I think an extra 1/4" vertical movement is all I need to be able to reliably upshift. I was talking to a Nomad rider yesterday at bikenight who has an acetylene welding torch. Our thoughts are to clamp the shift lever in a vise, heat it red hot down at the bend then pull the lever out a few degrees to open the bend a few degrees. I know this will probably discolor the stainless steel lever and maybe take some strength out of it too. So is this a smart thing to do, or should I find a different method to get the shift clearance I need?

Gordon

1991 VN 750 -"Cosmic Lady" or "Bad Girl"?
Purchased May 16, 2008
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 03:24 AM
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the lever can be bent cold a few degrees, I bent my spare one to almost 90 before it broke (I was trying to break it).
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 09:20 AM
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....what I did on my older FWD controls setups was to cut a "V" out of the top, bend it, then reweld.....once ground and polished, you can barely tell.



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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 10:57 AM
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Had the same problem with mine, couldn't shift into 2+. I just took the lever off and rotated it down a couple notches on the shaft. worked like a champ.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 11:42 AM
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You can bend the lever a few degrees without needing to heat it up. It's not stainless steel btw, just chrome plated mild steel.

Am guessing you are talking about getting a position "between". the ones provided by the splines.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 12:43 PM
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I think he is talking about bending it sideways so the shifter goes up along side the crash bar. Hoss you could use a press if you know anybody that has one

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 01:07 PM
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I went back and read the OP and I think you're right bama. I think there's three options. Bend it out past the guard, fabricate a heel/toe shift lever or make a bracket that drops the peg and rotate the shifter down.

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Mods
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HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
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Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 06:15 PM
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How about moving the crash guard up a bit by elongating the holesin the mounting tabs

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 06:51 PM
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I always thought the guard was poorly designed.... Hoss is not the first person to have problems with the shifter with the thing installed.

I though his problem was about the up/down position, not the side to side one.

Guess he can clear that up...

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 08:31 PM
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I have the same prob with mine i wear steel toed boots for work had to move shifter up a spline or two so i could fit the boots under the shifter, wouldnt work i had to move it back just dont ride my bike to work. Looking for forward controls or going to build some to solve problem,( or removed engine guard)

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