Any walk thrus on installing mini apes? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Any walk thrus on installing mini apes?

My mini apes (12") are on the way. I know I have to change the brake hose to a longer one. I did a search and a few threads mentioned removing the gas tank. I have no problem with that but I can't figure out why?
Also, when looking at my clutch and throttle cables they just don't look like they have much slack to them. I know they are the stock ones. My bike only has 5300 miles on it.
Is there a tutorial anywhere to walk me thru the rerouting of the throttle and clutch cables? It appears that the electronics cables have enough slack in them.
Thanks!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 12:26 AM
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I just put drag bars on, you'll need longer cables, if you've got them just disconnect one control item at a time. Or try google!

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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From everything I read, I don't need longer cables. The only part that I need to replace is the brake hose. I am thinking that the reason guys are removing the tank is to reroute the throttle and maybe the clutch cables. I don't see any reason to remove the tank except for those reasons.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jgcable View Post
From everything I read, I don't need longer cables. The only part that I need to replace is the brake hose. I am thinking that the reason guys are removing the tank is to reroute the throttle and maybe the clutch cables. I don't see any reason to remove the tank except for those reasons.
So get to work. Don't be afraid to do any work on your bike it'll love you for it and you'll learn how to give it what it needs. The tank is held on by three bolts, and the pet cock fuel filter, which has three hoses. If for what ever reason you need to re-route cables under the tank for extra length and run into a snag I can respond immediately, if I can't help through support or my knowledge is lacking someone will come along soon with an answer. If you feel like documenting the process, and composing a guide after, I'm sure there will be other members who will be very appreciative.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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So get to work. Don't be afraid to do any work on your bike it'll love you for it and you'll learn how to give it what it needs. The tank is held on by three bolts, and the pet cock fuel filter, which has three hoses. If for what ever reason you need to re-route cables under the tank for extra length and run into a snag I can respond immediately, if I can't help through support or my knowledge is lacking someone will come along soon with an answer. If you feel like documenting the process, and composing a guide after, I'm sure there will be other members who will be very appreciative.
Thanks for the response. I have no problem with tearing the bike apart. I have completely rebuilt several bikes throughout the years.
I am really digging this little 750 though. Its a nicely put together bike.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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So, I read every thread ever posted on this forum regarding installing mini 12" apes and it looks like I am going to have to play it by ear. I was hoping I could speak to somebody who actually did this because I need to know what parts I need to get besides the brake hose. Once I get the original bars off I need to get the new bars on and all buttoned up and ready to go the same day.
So far I have read the following regarding 12" mini apes...
I need to change the brake hose to a longer one
I don't need to change the brake hose to a longer one
I need to lengthen the electronic cables
I don't need to lengthen the electronic cables
I need to reroute the clutch and throttle cables
I need to replace the clutch and throttle cables with longer ones
I need to remove the tank
I don't need to remove the tank
Its a straight forward easy job.... just get going!
Its a pain in the but and I am going to need alot of expensive parts that aren't readily available.
I would have thought that changing the bars to 12" mini apes or larger would be a fairly popular thing because the stock bars are fairly narrow and low.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 01:28 PM
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Your local Kawasaki shop can sell you any cables you need, add what ever the height difference is between the old bars and the new bars. The wires should be long enough. Ebay and Amazon also sell parts. Cables are $7- 15

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Last edited by ourselfish; 07-15-2011 at 01:32 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Your local Kawasaki shop can sell you any cables you need, add what ever the height difference is between the old bars and the new bars. The wires should be long enough. Ebay and Amazon also sell parts. Cables are $7- 15
Thanks bro. I do have a local Kawasaki shop so it should work out fine!

John G
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 04:14 PM
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Ok Im gonna do it lol The cables should all be fine stock, you really shouldnt need to reroute them. (My clutch cable had to be lengthened a few inches but my throttle cables are stock and my apes are 18") The brake hose might work stock as well cause the difference is about 2 in., The tank does not need to come off. Just start with the controls, remove the grips levers etc once its all kinda hangin loosen the four alan head screws from the HB Clamp. Remove stock bars, place new bars into clamp and make sure you center them. Then losely put the clamp back on sit on the bike and get a feel for where you want them. then tighten the clamp down. Double check bar position and make sure they swing side to side without hitting the tank. Re assemble all hand controls. Make sure you can move bars side to side without cables catching or binding. Then do a test ride to make sure shes good to go. If you have any problems just PM me, I'll be happy to help you figure out rerouting the cables but I dont think it'll be neccessary.

86 Vn750
Coastered
De-Goated
Ears shaved
"Custom Pipes"
"Custom Seat"
Apes
Stator Mod
Malteese led Turn Signals (Rear)
Paid 750.00$ for her in 2005 w/ 9k
Currently @ 23k and counting

Last edited by Stones750; 07-15-2011 at 04:18 PM. Reason: missed info
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 04:16 PM
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Oh when you place the new bars it might be easier to move them forward before clamping them, slide on all the hand controls then put bars where you want and tighten everything.

86 Vn750
Coastered
De-Goated
Ears shaved
"Custom Pipes"
"Custom Seat"
Apes
Stator Mod
Malteese led Turn Signals (Rear)
Paid 750.00$ for her in 2005 w/ 9k
Currently @ 23k and counting
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