First of all I would like to thank Dave Sproul for his excellent writeup and QueXpress (Normand in QUÉBEC). I wouldnt have known about this mod, nor where to start without the information on their web pages. Also, Please understand that you do this at your own risk.
I am not saying for you to do this mod, only telling you how I did mine. I claim no responsibility nor Liability for anything you screw up or if you get hurt and and I doubt Audiovox will either as this unit is made for a car, not a motorcycle.
So, on with the install: Read the instructions thoroughly that come with the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control.
Remove the seat and fuel tank and the left side front frame cover. If you can do that, your well on your way.
You will need to fab a bracket for the cruise control pad. I made mine from 1/8th"x2" aluminum flat stock that I bought from either the local hardware store or Lowes. There is a template in the instructions for the keypad side of the bracket. I just bent a piece into an L bracket that I could attach to where the throttle cables come out on the handle bars. Since I didnt want to drill any extra holes I made it so there is a hole on the front right side of it to fit over the return cable and it mounts with the single screw that holds the throttle cable into the housing on the throttle control.
I also re-made the mounting bracket for the servo from the same material as the control pad to add extra strength and less vibration and mounted the servo to the frame on the left side of the bike between the rear foot peg and the bottom of the seat with 2 screws. Mount it with the throttle cable facing down and the vacuum port facing out. Even with the bigger rear tire I have there is plenty of room without interference of the swingarm or rear tire. Just be careful and make sure your bracket and mount make enough clearance. I can fit my fingers between the servo and the tire sidewall.
Remove headlight and make the following connections from the keypad wires:
Gray and Orange wires to Blue wire inside headlight assembly.
Black wire to Yellow/Black wire for turn signals, not the one that connects to the headlight plug.
Ok, on to the servo wires:
Red wire from servo to Brown/White wire on fuse box.
Blue wire to front coil black wire. I just slipped the lug on the wire inside the terminal lug cover already there. You can splice if you like. Do not remove the noise supressor attached to the wire.
Purple wire to Blue wire going to rear tail lamp/Brake light. NOTE
If you have a brake light modulator, (flashes brake light) you will need to add 2 resistors and a diode to the connection or the cruise will not engage. Information on that from one of the 2 links at the end of this). I didnt have any luck with the relay, then again I may not have done it exactly right now that I think about it.
Wiring should be all finished now.
Make sure the dip switches inside the servo are set to 1 and 7 on and all others off. Check all the switches and make sure they are either off or on, not in the middle. After I got the wire harness connected inside the servo and the cover on I used a little black silicone to make sure no water gets inside being it is so close to the rear tire.
I secured the servo throttle cable to the left side of the frame inside the cover for the fuse box and stuff. There is a little bracket that the screw for the cover fits into. This should keep the cable from rubbing on the swing arm and causing damage to the cable. Run the cable up the left side of the engine and over the front cylinder valve cover and around to where the throttle cables attach to the carbs on the right side of the engine. I mounted the servo control cable to the right side bottom reed cover bolt. I also used the short loop cable included in the box to attach the servo cable to the carbs. I loosened the outside throttle cable lock nuts at the carbs enough to get the cable housing loose so I could disconnect the end from the carb linkage. Use the longer loop cable and slip it over where you removed the throttle cable at the end so that it kind of hangs over the part of the linkage you just removed the cable end from. Reinstall the throttle cable end and the cable housing. Now rotate the loop cable up and it should be over the cable end. If it doesnt, you didnt do it right. Now just use the bead connector to attach the loop cable and the servo cable together and adjust the servo cable to remove most of the slack. When the servo is active it will open the throttle in the same direction as the handle bar control.
Last step is to fabricate a small vacuum reservior from 1-1/4" plastic pipe. I think I used about 6 inches of pipe, 2 end caps and 2 1/8x5/32 nipples. Attach a small T fitting to the right side carb vacuum line. Plug in a length of vacuum tubing to this t and run it to a check valve, (not included in kit) and to the reservoir. The valve has to be facing so that the carb can pull air thru the valve. Now run another length of tubing from the reservoir to the vacuum port on the servo. I slipped the complete reservoir in between the exhaust and the frame from the left side of the bike and attached it with a zip tie to the frame in front of the battery box and above the swing arm pivot. There is a piece of frame that goes from one side of the bike to the other.
Reinstall the front frame cover, fuel tank and seat and test drive. Real electronic cruise control that works as good or better than your car. It should disengage with the clutch (it will rev a few hundred rpm before disengaging), either brake or just turning it off.
If it doesnt work, go back and check the wiring or the check valve. If the check valve is installed correctly, with the enging running, when you disconnect the vacuum hose at the servo you should have vacuum. If not the valve is in backwards.
Good luck, be careful and enjoy.
Any questions or comments, please let me know.
Sites I used for basic information: