Audiovox CCS-100 Electronic Cruise Control Install - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Audiovox CCS-100 Electronic Cruise Control Install

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ID:	1933First of all I would like to thank Dave Sproul for his excellent writeup and QueXpress (Normand in QUÉBEC). I wouldnt have known about this mod, nor where to start without the information on their web pages. Also, Please understand that you do this at your own risk. I am not saying for you to do this mod, only telling you how I did mine. I claim no responsibility nor Liability for anything you screw up or if you get hurt and and I doubt Audiovox will either as this unit is made for a car, not a motorcycle.

So, on with the install: Read the instructions thoroughly that come with the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control.

Remove the seat and fuel tank and the left side front frame cover. If you can do that, your well on your way.

You will need to fab a bracket for the cruise control pad. I made mine from 1/8th"x2" aluminum flat stock that I bought from either the local hardware store or Lowes. There is a template in the instructions for the keypad side of the bracket. I just bent a piece into an L bracket that I could attach to where the throttle cables come out on the handle bars. Since I didnt want to drill any extra holes I made it so there is a hole on the front right side of it to fit over the return cable and it mounts with the single screw that holds the throttle cable into the housing on the throttle control.

I also re-made the mounting bracket for the servo from the same material as the control pad to add extra strength and less vibration and mounted the servo to the frame on the left side of the bike between the rear foot peg and the bottom of the seat with 2 screws. Mount it with the throttle cable facing down and the vacuum port facing out. Even with the bigger rear tire I have there is plenty of room without interference of the swingarm or rear tire. Just be careful and make sure your bracket and mount make enough clearance. I can fit my fingers between the servo and the tire sidewall.

Remove headlight and make the following connections from the keypad wires:
Gray and Orange wires to Blue wire inside headlight assembly.
Black wire to Yellow/Black wire for turn signals, not the one that connects to the headlight plug.

Ok, on to the servo wires:
Red wire from servo to Brown/White wire on fuse box.
Blue wire to front coil black wire. I just slipped the lug on the wire inside the terminal lug cover already there. You can splice if you like. Do not remove the noise supressor attached to the wire.

Purple wire to Blue wire going to rear tail lamp/Brake light. NOTEIf you have a brake light modulator, (flashes brake light) you will need to add 2 resistors and a diode to the connection or the cruise will not engage. Information on that from one of the 2 links at the end of this). I didnt have any luck with the relay, then again I may not have done it exactly right now that I think about it.

Wiring should be all finished now.

Make sure the dip switches inside the servo are set to 1 and 7 on and all others off. Check all the switches and make sure they are either off or on, not in the middle. After I got the wire harness connected inside the servo and the cover on I used a little black silicone to make sure no water gets inside being it is so close to the rear tire.

I secured the servo throttle cable to the left side of the frame inside the cover for the fuse box and stuff. There is a little bracket that the screw for the cover fits into. This should keep the cable from rubbing on the swing arm and causing damage to the cable. Run the cable up the left side of the engine and over the front cylinder valve cover and around to where the throttle cables attach to the carbs on the right side of the engine. I mounted the servo control cable to the right side bottom reed cover bolt. I also used the short loop cable included in the box to attach the servo cable to the carbs. I loosened the outside throttle cable lock nuts at the carbs enough to get the cable housing loose so I could disconnect the end from the carb linkage. Use the longer loop cable and slip it over where you removed the throttle cable at the end so that it kind of hangs over the part of the linkage you just removed the cable end from. Reinstall the throttle cable end and the cable housing. Now rotate the loop cable up and it should be over the cable end. If it doesnt, you didnt do it right. Now just use the bead connector to attach the loop cable and the servo cable together and adjust the servo cable to remove most of the slack. When the servo is active it will open the throttle in the same direction as the handle bar control.

Last step is to fabricate a small vacuum reservior from 1-1/4" plastic pipe. I think I used about 6 inches of pipe, 2 end caps and 2 1/8x5/32 nipples. Attach a small T fitting to the right side carb vacuum line. Plug in a length of vacuum tubing to this t and run it to a check valve, (not included in kit) and to the reservoir. The valve has to be facing so that the carb can pull air thru the valve. Now run another length of tubing from the reservoir to the vacuum port on the servo. I slipped the complete reservoir in between the exhaust and the frame from the left side of the bike and attached it with a zip tie to the frame in front of the battery box and above the swing arm pivot. There is a piece of frame that goes from one side of the bike to the other.

Reinstall the front frame cover, fuel tank and seat and test drive. Real electronic cruise control that works as good or better than your car. It should disengage with the clutch (it will rev a few hundred rpm before disengaging), either brake or just turning it off.

If it doesnt work, go back and check the wiring or the check valve. If the check valve is installed correctly, with the enging running, when you disconnect the vacuum hose at the servo you should have vacuum. If not the valve is in backwards.

Good luck, be careful and enjoy.

Any questions or comments, please let me know.

Sites I used for basic information:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shopta...se-control.htm

http://www.angelfire.com/il/sproulpage/page13.html

Kuryakyn Flame Grips
Bar End helmet locks
Chrome / Gold "Live to Ride Mirrors"
Coastered, Shaved & Jetted
K&N Pod Air Filters
KisanTech headlamp & Taillight modulators
Iridium's
Leather Lyke Hard Bags
Voltmeter, Clock
Stebel Nautilus horn
Slipstreamer SS28
J&M CB Radio
Audiovox CCS-100 Electronic Cruise Control
Mustang Seat, Protac Drivers Backrest
And of course the obligatory stator replacement[/FONT]
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 06:45 PM
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That is a lot of work for a electronic cruise control. I take very few really long trips, but the right up really a good one. Just for ****s and grins what is that guage just left of the controls on your handle bars. Is that a oil pressure guage?

2004 25,500 miles
Led tail light enhancement
Homemade floor boards
Headlight modulator
Extra heat sink on R+R
R+R relocation
Homemade driver's backrest
Fused Stator
Mcct conversion-cost 4.50
Ride-on in tires
crash bar with home made hyway pegs
iridium plugs
home made fork wind deflectors
coil pickups adjusted.
Kenda kruz tires 110/90 170/80
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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It really isnt as bad as it sounds. I was trying to be very thorough. I could probably do the next one in about 2 hours or less. The gauge you were asking about is just an ambient temperature guage. There is a matching clock on the other side.

Kuryakyn Flame Grips
Bar End helmet locks
Chrome / Gold "Live to Ride Mirrors"
Coastered, Shaved & Jetted
K&N Pod Air Filters
KisanTech headlamp & Taillight modulators
Iridium's
Leather Lyke Hard Bags
Voltmeter, Clock
Stebel Nautilus horn
Slipstreamer SS28
J&M CB Radio
Audiovox CCS-100 Electronic Cruise Control
Mustang Seat, Protac Drivers Backrest
And of course the obligatory stator replacement[/FONT]
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 08:18 PM
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Thanks for posting this IPFREELY....thinking about buying one for father's day!!!

PEACE!!!

2005 Vulcan 750
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 12:58 PM
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Great write-up! Sounds like a nice working add-on too. Just one question, is it possible to mount the control under the left hand controls in the same way you did under the right controls? Seems like it would be easier to fiddle with the controls with your left hand. Just wondering why you chose the right side.
Very well done! I want one on my 1500... Dang, already got my father's day gift...

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-18-2009, 01:23 PM
 
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pretty cool...good work
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergy View Post
Great write-up! Sounds like a nice working add-on too. Just one question, is it possible to mount the control under the left hand controls in the same way you did under the right controls? Seems like it would be easier to fiddle with the controls with your left hand. Just wondering why you chose the right side.
Very well done! I want one on my 1500... Dang, already got my father's day gift...
There were actualy 2 reasons why I choose to put the control pad on the right side versus the left side. The first was because that is the side they are on, on my Goldwing. The second is because there is a J&M CB Radio on the left side above the handgrip and I figured that that side was busy enough already. I mounted the control pad close enough to the throttle that it can easily be operated with just a thumb, without removing my hand from the bars. I guess you could put the control pad any where you like as long as you can mount it securely. The wiring is long enough to mount on either side or even in the middle of the bars.

Kuryakyn Flame Grips
Bar End helmet locks
Chrome / Gold "Live to Ride Mirrors"
Coastered, Shaved & Jetted
K&N Pod Air Filters
KisanTech headlamp & Taillight modulators
Iridium's
Leather Lyke Hard Bags
Voltmeter, Clock
Stebel Nautilus horn
Slipstreamer SS28
J&M CB Radio
Audiovox CCS-100 Electronic Cruise Control
Mustang Seat, Protac Drivers Backrest
And of course the obligatory stator replacement[/FONT]
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 09:11 AM
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Makes perfect sense, that you're already used to it on the right, and the CB stuff over the left. Just was wondering. I found a write-up that is specifically for the 1500 on Gadget's web site using the same rig. This is definitely something I'll be doing eventually. This bike has a vista cruise on it but I almost never use it as it is useless for any long stretch of road where I would want to use something like this. It is ok for a quick lock of the throttle to use my right hand for a quick adjustment of my back pad on my gear or something, but it doesn't hold the speed because of all the variables in roads. Anyway, really cool stuff here! Can't wait to get one.

Fergy
Kyle, TX VN750.com member #707 VROC#19556
2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart
SEAFOAM JUNKIE!


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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 12:04 PM
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Nice!

Thanks for the post.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 10:36 PM
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Dude, thanks so much, ipfreely! I know you started this thread 3 years ago, but I just stumbled across it and found it to be 100% accurate and incredibly helpful! I installed the CCS-100 in my van 3-1/2 years ago and it never quite worked right. In fact, I always wondered if the unit was defective. Well, I finally got the factory cruise control working (after countless hours of tinkering and troubleshooting) so that freed up the unit for my VN700. And it works awesome! I love it! It holds speed absolutely rock solid and I love the accel and coast features.


1985 VN700 - 24,000 miles - Flat Black - AGM Battery - Chopped Seat - Custom Forward Controls - Ear Shave - CCS-100 Cruise Control
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