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Ignition switch needed, w/key

3K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Harmonica Bob 
#1 ·
I bought my bike off an old friend and the switch was broken, I can't afford to pay for a new one, being on a fixed income. I'd rather not have to hot wire it and put a few hidden switches on it so it would be a pain for someone to figure out how to get it to start.
Hopefully I'll find one here!!!! 😁😎
 
#3 ·
When you say the switch is "broken", exactly what is wrong with it? Many here have successfully repaired switches that were not working.
Usually it's just a broken wire, a weak spring, or dirt on the contacts. If you believe you lack the skills to try fixing it, perhaps another member here can offer to look at it for you?
 
#7 ·
The whole top portion is gone all that remains is a plastic plate with I believe, 4 wires going to it, and I'm still going to have to figure out how to wire it if I can't find a used one. Being on a fixed income makes it practically impossible for me to buy a new one with everything else I'm having to do.
 
#9 ·
Whelp, you may have some wires that are MIA. I think there are 7 or so wires attached to a stock ignition switch.
We'll get you sorted out when you decide which direction you want to go with it all.
 
#8 ·
If I can't find a way to put a lockable box, as Thorn suggested, I would love to hear from you on the placement of a switch. As for servicing what is there, I believe it's impossible, since all I have is a plastic plate, with, if I can remember, without going and uncovering my bike, I don't have a garage, has 4 wires going to it. And as I stated, I can't afford a new one.
 
#10 ·
Thorn,
You're very correct, as I just got home, I checked the Forum, went out pulled off the tarp, sure enough, 7 wires!!! Maybe I've just been hoping it was only 4, but was thinking, how could it be. See, I've had this on hold for awhile for a number of reasons, but I decided about a month ago to start looking for and pricing parts, but then a couple of weeks ago I was talking to a friend I played with in a band years ago and I told him I had started buying a few things I needed to get my bike on the road. He asked how much I thought it would take and I gave him a rough estimate. He said, out of the blue, I lend it to you. It knocked me back!!! I had just told him the low end of the scale and I was hoping to find some decent used tires,(the ones on it are dry rotted), but just decided to find some new ones and actually found some reasonably priced through Amazon.
But I didn't include a new ignition switch in with it.
Thank God, the friend I got it from, had taken the time to drain all the fluids from it when he bought it. And I got my great deal because his Dad handed down his bike to my friend.
With any luck at all, after looking at the schematics over and over and over I'll figure out the wiring. I know I want to have a separate switch for the fan, and yes, so I won't forget to cut it on, it will also be in the locked box, as you suggested!!!!
Thanks so much for the input!!!
 
#11 ·
Much better having the fan on the temp switch, running the fan all the time isn't good. Above 30 mph the fan usually doesn't run. It pulls a lot of amps, drops the charging volts, and running all the time should be hard on the Junction Box, overheating the fan relay. It might even function as a restriction in 70mph wind.

For me using a toggle switch, I'd try to run it only as needed, and sometime the first day I would forget to turn it on until I smelled antifreeze and the gauge is pegged.
 
#14 ·
You're welcome!

After sleeping on it ... You can still use a toggle like you said, and run the ground to the temp switch. The fan would function normally as long as your toggle is on. So it would be like an airplane, power on, hit all the correct toggle switches, cleared for takeoff.

The temp switch works off of ground, all grounds on this bike are black/yellow stripe.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Just to save you some time and head-scratching, here's the procedure for replacing the ignition switch with manual switches.
This procedure removes the "park" state from the bike.

1. Chop off the terminal.
2. Insulate the end of the white/black wire. It is not needed. Alternately, it could be spliced to the white wire.
3. Wire the white wire to terminal 1 of the new on/off switch. This is your power in via the 30amp fuse in the JB.
4. Splice the orange/green, yellow, and Brown/White wires together. Attach them to terminal 2 of the new switch. This powers the turn signals, start button/ignition, instrument cluster, power to headlight fuse, and tail light fuse.
5. Splice the red and blue wires together. This provides 10amp protected power to the tail light. FYI, on a stock bike that 10 amp fuse is the 'headlight' fuse, and the tail light fuse is unused.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Spockster,
Between you and Thorn, y'all saved my ass!!!!
I'm SO GLAD I found the forum, I've been browsing through the threads and I know if I would have known about all of you sooner, I would more than likely have started this a lot sooner and I'm certain already been back in the wind.
 
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