Front fork Allen and top cap stuck - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Front fork Allen and top cap stuck

Hey all; I have a 97 Vn750 I'm rebuilding and right now the front forks are giving me a pain. I can't loosen the Allen bolt on the bottom at all and the top won't compress for me to take out the retainer clip at all. These are the two most important parts of changing the seals, so any ideas?

I have a love/hate relationship with this bike I swear to God.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunthyon View Post
Hey all; I have a 97 Vn750 I'm rebuilding and right now the front forks are giving me a pain. I can't loosen the Allen bolt on the bottom at all and the top won't compress for me to take out the retainer clip at all. These are the two most important parts of changing the seals, so any ideas?
Hi dunthyon, I replaced front seals w/o those problems.
I have heard of stubern(sp?) fork bolts, but do not recall resolution.
Do the bolt heads appear rusty ? If so, penatrate the rusty heads.....
Maybe another member will have sugestions.
Again sorry, Hope all turns out well....

WilliamTech

Originally WilliamTech
Since May 2011
86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock -Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
Jardine Fwd Controls, Custom Fenders w/Rails
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery, Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !

...have a Vulcan good day !
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 10:27 PM
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The allen screw has Loctite on it. Best to have the wheel on, or least the axle through the forks. Some heat directly on the screw head might help release the thread locker, but you're also heating the oil there if you haven't drained it all.

On top, place a 5/8"-11/16" socket with extension over the top and smack it with a hammer.

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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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That's why I'm confused, the Allen holes look fine but they won't budge at all. Is that holder tool absolutely necessary for removing those? I don't have a lot of special tools, I kind of thought after I got the top cap off and the spring out it would be simple to remove.

I have a love/hate relationship with this bike I swear to God.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 10:52 PM
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Impact wrench on the allen head bolt. Makes it so easy, you won't believe it!

The top end was no trouble on mine--just put a socket over it and held them down w/ a pry bar while I pulled the retaining ring out w/ small screwdriver. It wouldn't hurt to have an extra set of hands. Would guess that it would be harder once the forks are off the bike, too. I pryed against the handlebar while the forks were still in place. . . .

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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 11:16 PM
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An impact driver does help with breaking the threadlocker, but it's a tool most don't keep around anymore. Was a 'must have' to remove phillips head crankcase screws. They aren't usually expensive, the impact driver is designed to turn the screw when the driver is struck with a hammer. It's not that the screws are extremely tight, they are just glued with threadlocker. You also have to be wary of stripping out the heads, be sure the hex wrench/bit fits tight.

Releasing the springs won't help with breaking the threadlocker at the bottom. After I loosened the top caps with the hammer/socket, I used the socket/extension to hold the cap down with one hand and popped the clip out with a small screwdriver. The springs will come up about 4-6" when released, so not a lot of tension, but some.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 11:38 PM
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I actually meant one of these

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-...QaAqyMEALw_wcB

I've had trouble w/ bolt just spinning and not coming out. Once it's loose that can be a problem, too.
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDI View Post
I actually meant one of these

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-...QaAqyMEALw_wcB

I've had trouble w/ bolt just spinning and not coming out. Once it's loose that can be a problem, too.
I thought that might be what you meant, 'impact gun'. That would break it loose, but you'll want a tight fit on the allen head for sure.

This is an impact driver, or actually, "manual hand impact driver". Used to get these for $7: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d_i=2399141011

Harbor Freight didn't even list one, they only listed cordless, electric and air impact guns.

I didn't use a holder tool, but it seems like I remember jamming something against the block at the bottom, down through the tube, large blade long screwdriver maybe.

Frickken red Loctite is a biatch. When those screws come loose, it will sound like you broke it off.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Will be grabbing an impact driver tomorrow, with the allen attachment. However one allen head is almost stripped fully.. If it strips what do I do? And also what bolt can I get to replace it that's not strictly OEM?
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-29-2018, 12:36 AM
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Rounding out the head leaves you hacking at it with a chisel or drilling the head off.

I'm thinking your best bet is getting all the oil out of the tube and heating the bolt head with a propane torch, that's the only way to get past the Loctite, besides brute force.

For replacement bolts, you'll need to match the thread size and pitch, and that bolt is only threaded about half it's length. I don't know the sizes but you might find it on a parts diagram at one of the parts websites.

2003-21k mi
Shaved w/UniPK92+Stock Jets-TPE/MOSFET-Shinko Tires-AGM batt-bags-chrome-LEDs...more
__________________________________________________ ____________
Repair Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/mj7z81..._Catalogue.pdf

Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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