With time on my hands, I`ve done a little research pgchimp. Weh44`s link to fergy`s link is a good one. It shows how to remove the rear wheel and check and grease the driveshaft and final drive, and put it all back together. I couldn`t easily find a link to the rest of his website, so I searched "rear+brake+replacement" and found 750 Doug`s thread from about 6 months ago. He has some good pics of the brake drum and brake shoe plate assembly and explaination of what was done. I bumped it up, so if you go to the top of this page and click on Quick Links, then on Todays Posts, you will find 750Dougs post with pics, at or near the top of the listings.
Now in answer to your questions, you definately need to pull the rear wheel and find and remedy that brake problem.
Q1. Yes you need a torque wrench. It does not have to be expensive,(I picked up one a few years ago at a discount place for about $20, IIRC). You do want to get a 1/2" drive, micrometer style adjustment, with an audible click, torque reached indicator. The beam type with a scale and a pointer are cheaper to buy, but very awkward to use. Stay away from them. If your sockets are 3/8" drive make sure you have a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for the torque wrench.
Q2. Don`t lift front wheel. Park with center stand sitting on a piece of 2" lumber, as shown by fergy and 750Doug. This will lift your rear tire high enough to get the rear tire and wheel out without deflating it. Remember to tie the center stand to the front wheel so you don`t roll the bike ahead and off the stand, (also as per fergy`s directions).
Q3. I am guessing, based on your description, that the shoes are probably stuck to the drum. Make sure that you check, clean, adjust and lube all pivot points in the linkage and cable from the pedal all the way back to and including the rear brake camshaft. Ensure that you don`t get any grease on the shoes or internal drum surface.
EDIT.- After re-reading your 1st post a few times, I conclude that antiq rightly identified the problem in the next post as the camshaft, not the brake shoes sticking to the drum per se. The camshaft lever is not releasing and turning back to its "at rest" position. Therefore the camshaft remains in the "brakes applied position." It could be that the shoes are in good condition and all that is needed is a good cleaning and relubrication of the camshaft and brake assembly plate
Q4. You should only need to remove the right muffler and cover which is the rearmost piece on the exhaust pipe. It is about a foot and a half long. Directions and pics are in the Clymer manual. Look at the pipe directly below the right rear passenger footpeg and you will see the connection point. There are 2 bolts below to remove to get the cover off. One more on the clamp holding the muffler to the exhaust pipe , and another just under the footpeg which supports the muffler. That`s it.
Q5. As long as you have the back end this far apart you should check and clean the rear splines and final drive. There are not many gaskets on this bike but there are some O-rings in there that probably should be replaced. You will have to check the pdf file available here or the diagrams and parts list on ronayers.com for part numbers. Seeing that it is a few months before you will be riding, you may want to pull it apart to determine exactly what you need so you can get everthing in one order. Anyone else out there have any advice on this?
Q6. You probably will need new brake shoes, but if you have a space to work in where you can leave the bike partially dismantled, with the parts laid out in order ,and no one will disturb them, see the second to last sentence in the paragraph above.^^^
I hope this helps pgchimp. I`m sure others can fill in anything I have missed or forgotten. I see you have the Haynes manual, not the Clymer that I use, so there are bound to be differences in pics and approach etc. In any event, take the manual, read and mark relevant sections and get a notebook to write notes, question, diagrams, etc. Then take it out to your workspace and review what you need to do while looking at the corresponding area of the bike. Make sure you have all the tools you will need. Have on old towel or blanket laid out on a bench or shelf where you can keep everything in the order it came off, to simplify reassembly later. If you have a Polaroid or a digital camera, take some pics before you start and as you progress to aid in assembly also.
Now is also a good time to check several other things while the rear wheel is already off, such as;
The wiring that runs along a channel in the underside of the rear fender to the rear lights.
The condition, lubrication and adjustment of the pivot bearing for the swingarm, driveshaft assembly.
Condition of the battery and battery box, (need cleaning and/or paint?), all electrical connections under the seat are clean, free of corrosion and sealed with dielectric grease.
Look for any cracks or scratches in the frame that need to be repaired or painted.
Good time to relocate regulator/rectifier if so desired.
Anything else you can think of, or find in the manual, that is easier to get at now, than it will be later when you would rather be riding.
Don`t get overwhelmed or discouraged by this list. Take it one step at a time, at your own pace, and set your own priorities about what needs to be done first. This is just my list of some things I need to check on my scoot. Make your own list and when you get tired or frustrated with the project, stop and take a break. Take it slow and be sure it`s right, rather than rush and have to pull it apart again. Don`t ask how I know this!! Good luck.
Last edited by OlHossCanada; 01-06-2009 at 03:26 PM.
Reason: See edit after Q.3