Rear wheel removal pictoral or video?? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Rear wheel removal pictoral or video??

After seeing that I'd be paying what I feel is too much for a dealer to remove the wheels/swap tires, I have decided that I'd rather give it a try myself. I believe, after watching videos on how to remove/install the tires that I can do that here (once the wheels are off) but I have not run across any video on the actual removal of the rear wheel from the bike. Sure, there are videos on different bikes but I'd prefer to see one showing ours. Anybody know of something like this?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 12:06 AM
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I'll look on youtube.

Tell you what... I find using zipties instead of tire irons so much easier and quicker. Much less problem with damage too. There's a few youtubes on that. Used a large c-clamp and 2x4 to break the beads.... takes a bit of armstrong.

Not real hard to pull the rear wheel. Good idea to tie the centerstand forward so it can't come down.

Undo the brake strut, I just left the rod with cable connected and lowered it with one hand as I pulled the wheel down. Undo the lower shock bolts, let the shocks hang.

Need to catch or chase the spacer that falls when you pull the axle out. On the right side, I think.

Edit: Roach to the rescue. He's lubing the swingarm, but the wheel comes off first. If you look at his page, you may see other videos on servicing the rear.


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Last edited by Spockster; 08-10-2016 at 12:19 AM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 12:38 AM
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Also an excellent time to check and redo the spline lube. Just four more bolts.

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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Owner's Manual: http://www.mediafire.com/file/nscb5f...ers+Manual.pdf
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Now when he pulled the rear wheel out it seemed like he essentially pulled it straight out the back (after getting it to dis-engage from the final drive). I'm curious how he did that since my bike is on the center stand right now and there isn't enough clearance to pull it straight back by a good 3 inches. It'll contact the bottom rear point of the fender. So far I haven't started to dis-assemble it because I see how much empty space is below the tire, which means the top of the tire will drop down the same amount leaving several inches of tire above the lowest point of the fender. I really, really don't want to take off one of the saddlebags to try shimmying the thing out sideways. Am I missing something?

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris and Shim View Post
Now when he pulled the rear wheel out it seemed like he essentially pulled it straight out the back (after getting it to dis-engage from the final drive). I'm curious how he did that since my bike is on the center stand right now and there isn't enough clearance to pull it straight back by a good 3 inches. It'll contact the bottom rear point of the fender. So far I haven't started to dis-assemble it because I see how much empty space is below the tire, which means the top of the tire will drop down the same amount leaving several inches of tire above the lowest point of the fender. I really, really don't want to take off one of the saddlebags to try shimmying the thing out sideways. Am I missing something?

I had the same thought last winter before I removed my rear wheel to do a spline lube. I found a few tricks on here. I am on my cell so rather than hunt the threads down again, I'll say it here. First thing you need to do is to put a few boards under your center stand. I had 2 pieces of 1x10 laying around so I used those and it jacked the bike up 1-1/2". You could us some scrap plywood or whatever. It is a little harder to get the bike up on the center stand, but it is completely do-able. You should definitely ratchet strap the center stand to the front tire once you get the bike up on it. Then once you unbolt the back shocks, the tire will drop and come straight out. You may have to put a sandbag or something on the front tire or handlebars to weight the front of the bike down. I just picked the back of the bike up with one hand, pivoting it on the center stand till the front wheel touched the ground. Then pulled the wheel straight out with my other hand.

If you look up the spline lube sticky thread, it explains the whole process, with pics, pretty well. Again, I would give you a link, but I'm on my cell right now.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 04:59 AM
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try this;
https://www.vn750.com/forum/26-transm...-part-1-a.html

oh, yeah. you can thank "Fergy".

if it goes vroom or boom, I LIKE IT!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Drew: I was thinking about tossing some good scrap pieces of wood down just for that purpose. Mine are a little thicker, I think, which is ok. The new 110/90 front tire levers the rear end down about a half inch when on the center stand more so than the stock 100/90 tire did. I don't have any sand bags but since Shim is Korean I have plenty of bags of rice to use!
Ruger: I still need to acquire some Moly 60 grease so I can do the drive shaft front and rear. Now, in a perfect world it shouldn't need much, if any, since I had it done 4K miles back. But I am always a bit leary about getting any work done on any machine of mine when that work is done where I can't see it being performed (their shop floor being off limits due to insurance reasons) and the work is also in a place where the eye can't see the finished product. They charged me for doing the work but I had no way to confirm it and they are also out of business now. As I said, in a perfect world it shouldn't be too bad but if they scammed me then it will need it badly.

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 02:04 PM
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I don't think jacking it up more than I did would hurt anything. It might be a bit harder to get the bike up on the stand, but completely do-able.

Rice bags work just fine! ??

I have an '03 and the splines on mine were bone dry. Luckily the PO didn't ride it much, so it only had about 3,000 miles on it. I had trouble finding the moly60 that everyone recommends. But I did find a moly paste from Locktite that was cheaper and had a higher moly content. I found it on Amazon.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Every so often in life I run across something that makes me worry about myself. For example: I had actually read the spline lube procedure several times but apparently didn't bother to read Step 1 ! The first sentence of the first step mentions getting some wood for the center stand. It even goes into a few ways of getting the bike up onto this wood. If I had read, and retained, that information then I wouldn't have written the reply a few above this one where I noted the bike had to be higher than the center stand normally puts it. I even wrote "Am I missing something?" Well, YES, I missed Step 1! Yep, I get concerned about myself sometimes.........

TOC MCCTs
Saddlebags, hard mounted
Fork mounted tool bag (now hard mounted)
Relocated rear turn signals
LED turn signals, brake lights and running lights
LED license plate frame
Engine Guard and Highway pegs
National Cycles Low Boy Heavy Duty windshield
Home made lowers (nice)
Custom seat (made by a local guy)
Iridium plugs (DPR7EIX-9)
Shenko 230 Tour Master tires at 11,123 miles
Splines lubed at 11,123 miles
Luggage rack
Light bar with LED lights
Chris and Shim is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 02:17 PM
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It's like that one test, where they tell you to read the directions and then follow it.
The first thing says read through all of the instruction first. The next couple of things tells you to do something ridiculous. The last thing tells you to ignore those steps and do nothing. Or at least thatís how I remember it went.
So if you didn't follow step 1 and just went straight to doing the next step then theyíll know you didnít follow step 1.

Don't take my word for it. I'm just a foolish newbie.
When in doubt, just know that I am only joking around.

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