Removing brake discs, bolt snapped. On a scale of 1 to F***ed how screwed am I? - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Removing brake discs, bolt snapped. On a scale of 1 to F***ed how screwed am I?

I'm planning to paint my wheels and started disassembly of the front wheel today. 4 bolts came off without a problem after a little pressure, but 3 of the bolts were seized up pretty good. Using the breaker bar I was able to slowly work two of them out half way, and the third almost all the way.....when it started twisting and finally snapped.

Considering how seized up it was, I doubt a screw extractor will make a dent in it - I'd likely need to drill it out and re-thread the hole. Can I just leave that one out when I re-attach the disc or will that cause issues? How about the other two seized up bolts, how can I get those out without snapping them?

'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagaku View Post
I'm planning to paint my wheels and started disassembly of the front wheel today. 4 bolts came off without a problem after a little pressure, but 3 of the bolts were seized up pretty good. Using the breaker bar I was able to slowly work two of them out half way, and the third almost all the way.....when it started twisting and finally snapped.

Considering how seized up it was, I doubt a screw extractor will make a dent in it - I'd likely need to drill it out and re-thread the hole. Can I just leave that one out when I re-attach the disc or will that cause issues? How about the other two seized up bolts, how can I get those out without snapping them?
Can you get a bite on the bolts with Vice-Grips? If not, I would cut a slot into the bolt for a flat head screwdriver. I would soak the bolts overnight with a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. You should be able to remove them the next day.

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Last edited by JM2001; 03-08-2015 at 08:29 AM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 09:46 AM
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Agreed, soaking. Heat helps, if it won't damage anything.

Vise-grips, or small pipe wrench to try and turn the broken ones. May be too seized for the screwdriver slot. Then comes the drill bits, you have drill a pilot hole as small as you can, straight and through the bolt. Then move up a bit size. Sometimes the heat from drilling will help free it up enough to get the bolt spinning. The drill hole also relieves tension on the threads.

You could then gently try an extractor, or just keep moving up in drill size until the bolt spins out, or is just gone. Many times, I've ended up with the bolt stuck on the drill bit instead of the part.

I'm pretty sure I removed the wheel once with calipers in place, that might give you more room to work.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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The wheel and calipers are completely off, so ease of access is not a problem. Unfortunately the bolt broke off a good 1/4" down into the hole. Nothing I can grip or cut into without damaging the hole and threads.

'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Mods:
Rattle-can high gloss black paint job
Frame, engine, Headers/exhaust painted satin black
Ears shaved, K&N pod filters
TPE Stator, MOSFET R/R, Magna Power AGM battery
Pickup Coil mod
New mirrors, grips, cables
VN900 seat
Straight pipes with 8" baffles
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 12:50 PM
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Try a drill man. I wouldn't want to run something critical like brakes unless they were tip top.

Use the smallest drill bit you can and just step up. Go slow and don't drill on an angle.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 01:38 PM
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Sorry, I completely spaced and thought you were trying to get the calipers off.

Just about have to drill them out in steps, the final bit being smaller than the threads, it is possible to save them or re-tap threads if needed.

I wouldn't trust leaving it. If the bolt happens to thread out sometime on it's own, it could lock the front wheel. Not to mention uneven torque on the rotor.

If you can get the rotor off the wheel, is there any meat on the bolt to work with? Heads can be drilled off stuck bolts also. A drill press would really be helpful for a nice vertical hole. Would have to be large to fit the wheel under it though.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I was able to get one bolt out with penetrating oil, no damage to the threads. The other two on the other hand... I bought a screw extractor bit and gave it a shot, unfortunately it was too big. I then asked my father if I could borrow his screw extractor kit - broke two of his bits before I gave up. This after soak in penetrating oil from both sides (realized the screw holes go straight thru the wheel).

I managed to drill one out entirely, I think. I can't tell if there is any bit of the thread left in the old. The other screw has what's left of the screw extractor still in the pilot hole I drilled. I tried drilling that out, but my guess is the hardened steel is gonna take a bit of effort to get through. I've given up for the day.


'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Mods:
Rattle-can high gloss black paint job
Frame, engine, Headers/exhaust painted satin black
Ears shaved, K&N pod filters
TPE Stator, MOSFET R/R, Magna Power AGM battery
Pickup Coil mod
New mirrors, grips, cables
VN900 seat
Straight pipes with 8" baffles
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 09:39 PM
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Apply heat. they are loctited .It will soften up the locking agent and they will come out a lot easier. A butane torch will do. I bet you wish you had known that before




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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2015, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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I did not see any locktite on the other bolts (usually leaves a blue residue), but there was a lot of rust on the last few threads of each bolt.

'92 Kawasaki Vulcan 750

Mods:
Rattle-can high gloss black paint job
Frame, engine, Headers/exhaust painted satin black
Ears shaved, K&N pod filters
TPE Stator, MOSFET R/R, Magna Power AGM battery
Pickup Coil mod
New mirrors, grips, cables
VN900 seat
Straight pipes with 8" baffles
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 07:56 PM
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I have seen a few post here lately of guys parting out there bikes. Many it would be easier just to replace the fork. Just an idea if you can't get them out.
Where I work we have these things called drill bushings, you said the bolts are broken below the surface not being flush. What they do is fit into the hole, there is a hole in the center for specific size drill bits. This would allow you to drill a hole in the center of the bolt. Then maybe you could drill it up from there and use a tap. You would need to know the size of the hole the bushing needs to fit in. Granger has some, not sure about the sizes.

Last edited by ifixf18s; 03-10-2015 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Add content
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