final drive gear seal - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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final drive gear seal

Hello all, im back with another question. My final drive seal is bad, its leaking oil. With that being said ive allready bought a new seal, Ive removed the final drive from the bike and need help from there. In the Clymer manual it says the tools needed would cost more than just taking it to a shop for repairs, that would be in chapter 11 page 396-397. Ok is this a can of worms I cant fix myself? I dont want to go any futher until I know. I generally fix all of my own stuff. I dont want to make a mistake and have it cost me more than what it allready has.

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Old 03-05-2015, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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this is the seal thats leaking and nneding to be replaced.


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Old 03-05-2015, 03:26 PM
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while that seal leaking is not impossible, its far from common.

usually, its oil from the weep hole (at top of pic) from overfilling, or someone over greased the splines in the pic. them splines need very little grease on them, unlike the splines at the other end of the final drive assy.

but, to answer your question, I have never had one apart. they are similar to a differential in a car, in that great care must be taken on reassembly to get everything just right.

another option would be to purchase a used one with good input splines (like I said, leaks at that seal are not common)

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Old 03-05-2015, 04:35 PM
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When mine was leaking, I took the two halves apart and you'll find a shim and a large o-ring. I cleaned it up on the mounting surfaces and put a very thin layer of rtv black on both sides of the shim and a thin layer on the o-ring and put it back together. 4 years and no leak.
If you notice the oil is down low, not up high.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4getful2 View Post
When mine was leaking, I took the two halves apart and you'll find a shim and a large o-ring. I cleaned it up on the mounting surfaces and put a very thin layer of rtv black on both sides of the shim and a thin layer on the o-ring and put it back together. 4 years and no leak.
If you notice the oil is down low, not up high.
Yes my oil is from the bottom, if I let the bike sit for 3-4 days i will have a puddle of oil below it on the garage floor. so no big deal to pull it apart?
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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ok so I seperated the two halfs and found that the gear set came off with the half that has the seal. Do I need to remove the gear in order to replace the seal? Im stumped at this point.

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Old 03-06-2015, 03:27 PM
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Don't disassemble the gear, hub, and cover... those are precision parts that have to be precisely set up...

You should be able to get the oil seal out without disassembling the gear...

You can try soaking the assembly in the picture in heated oil (250 degrees) and then punch the seal and pry it out with an awl or something like that... Make sure you don't scratch or damage the sealing surface on the ring gear hub!

------------------------------
GloryRider
Atlanta, GA
Current Ride: 1995 Vulcan 88 (1500A9)
Purchased Dec. 2014
approx. 6,800 miles

Previous Bike: 2000 VN750 "Glory"
With homemade stator
Details on stator build here

"Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul"

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Old 03-07-2015, 03:08 PM
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Don't you have a couple snap rings to take off?
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Old 03-07-2015, 04:52 PM
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according to the way I read my manual, no snap rings to remove the seal in question. Other seals in the rear gear do have snap rings to contend with.

And the manual says to remove that seal, heat the assy in oil to 250-300 degrees F. the carefully pry it out. so as always, Glory rider is right

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Old 03-09-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys, I managed to get it out with a pick, it took me a short while but I ever so slowly worked it out. Ive got the new one in, got it all back together and have put about 10 miles on it sofar. Just another lesson learned the hard way.
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