Fork bottom allen bolt has strippe head... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Fork bottom allen bolt has strippe head...

Trying to rebuild the forks on my other VN750. I just need to take out the brass-colored bolts that retain the inner guts, but the allen heads are stripped out by the P.O.

Any ideas? I'm not sure the next size allen or torx will fit even with some "persuasion". This is really discouraging because it's the only bike I can ride right now.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 05:52 PM
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You could try to hammer the next oversize torx bit in there, then before trying to turn, heat with propane to loosen the blue Loctite that should have been used on it.

In a pinch, I've been able to chisel on the edge of the allen head to turn them, but that is recessed so I'm not sure if that would work.

One trick I saw is to loosen those before taking the wheel off, makes it easier. Be sure you're using a metric allen wrench too.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 05:52 PM
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Next size torx with a hammer is my suggestion. Then after you get them out go to the hardware store and pick up new ones.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-28-2014, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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I tried metric to begin with. Looks like it used to be a 5. I have a full set of Torx but they won't fit. Probably have to notch it before I can hammer one in. I'll try that tomorrow...

So.. Guess I'm in the market for a new bolt for this thing..

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 01:08 AM
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ran into this with my brothers Nighthawk. As a last resort, we ended up just drilling the head of the bolt off and finding a compatible bolt at the hardware store since Honda doesn't offer the bolt anymore.

Drilled about 90% through the head (didn't want to run into the bottom of the fork) then just beat the bolt head with a hammer and punch a few times until it snapped loose.

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Last edited by Ndr; 04-29-2014 at 01:11 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that's my last resort. If I drill the head off, how much tension is still left in the threads? Can I just cut a little groove in the remaining shaft to use a screwdriver? Or is it tighter so l I need to use an extractor or drill it all and tap? IIRC that's the valve assembly on the other end? I don't want to drill/tap that if I can help it..

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 05:18 AM
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Once you get the head off the allen head bolt, as NDR, described. The alloy slider should come off and you'll probably be able to spin what's left of the bolt out with your fingers.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 07:56 PM
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use a chisel and cut a slot in the top or the allen head then use a large flat head bit on a rachet to get the bolt loose

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 11:13 PM
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Instead of using the next size Allen key try using a star torx bit on a ratchet. If not a set of "easy outs (around $9)from harbour freight have saved me about 4 times.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-30-2014, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Nick View Post
Once you get the head off the allen head bolt, as NDR, described. The alloy slider should come off and you'll probably be able to spin what's left of the bolt out with your fingers.
Exactly, once the head is broken off, it all just slides apart and you should be able to spin the threaded part of the bolt out by hand. Or at worst, put a screwdriver through the holed in the damper and use a wrench on the bolt. either way, it will come off pretty easy.

Another thing that may help:
get the fork of the bike if it isn't already, turn it upside down, and have a helper hang their full weight off the bottom slider of the fork compressing it. This might take just enough force off the bolt to let whatever bit you can get to bite in there to break it loose.

Edit: be sure to take the plastic cap off the top before doing this, otherwise it'll probably break when someone puts their full weight down on it

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