Slightly used tire, been sitting up. (&brake pad question) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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Slightly used tire, been sitting up. (&brake pad question)

A friend game me a tire off his old bike that has been sitting up. He bought new tires shortly before the bike broke down, and it's been sitting in the elements I guess for a little over a year. (yamaha maxim 700 FYI, simular model to our 750 in style)

The front tire is the exact same size I already have on my 750. 100/90 15..... I think. Dunlops, but not the same model name. The rear tire will work but it's just a bit smaller. Since I have a little bit of wear left on the back tire and I dont want to go any smaller I didnt take it.

The tred looks great, and still has the little rubber "hairs" on the side edges. I dont see any noticable cracks anywhere and the tire is still holding pressure.

Is there anything I might need to do to treat the tire to make sure it is not too dry before I put it on my bike? It looks a LOT fresher than the one I already have on my bike, it REALLY needs to go!

I was going to order some front brake pads and have the pads and tire installed at the same time. But since I took his wheel off his manga (almost the exact same wheel we use too, even has simular brake calipers) and brought the whole wheel home. I was thinking MAYBE I could install the pads and tire myself?

I've never done either one but I THINK I can figure it out. Use a hammer, couple screwdrivers, and crowbar to remover the tires, then work the new one on? Inflate. And again, never done pads either but looks reletively simple......

Take the plunge and try it? I am not much of a mechanic but I am eager to learn. I figured out how to get his wheel off, unbolt brake calipers, spedo cable, and I took his crash bars thinking JUST maybe they might fit. All with no help, and little to no wrench experience.

Either way, wether I install them myself or have a shop do it, I have a few weeks before pads come in so that'll give me time to uh...... oil er...... armoral..... um, anti- dry the tire?........ If there is any such process.

This still leaves 2 concerns. Facing the tred the right direction, and balancing the wheel.

If I do try to do this myself, is there any bearrings or anyhting in there I should check / lube while I have the front wheel off?

If this goes well, then same process + spline check will be one of my next projects down the line. (diffent brakes in the back though I realize)

I have scanned the verses, and I do have a Clymer manual.

If this can be done on my own, it could be a huge confidence booster for me learning to become a DIY'er.

Last edited by vn750joe; 08-12-2007 at 09:58 AM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 08:45 AM
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Don't know about reconditioning a old tire. But I wouldn't take a hammer and screw drivers to an aluminum rim. I've seen tire tools on ebay in one of the stores. Good Luck

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 11:59 AM
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Keep armorall the HELL AWAY from the bike!!! It'll make things very slippery - not good on a bike.

Harbor freight has a tire changer (and motorcycle rim adapter) I've had my eyes on - if you're going to do it yourself, get the right tools - it'll cost what about 4 changes of tires would cost - but from there on out changes are free...

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis97322 View Post
Harbor freight has a tire changer (and motorcycle rim adapter) I've had my eyes . it'll cost what about 4 changes of tires would cost - but from there on out changes are free...
And if you have friends that need tires changed... it can pay for it's self alot sooner!!

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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I think I have a couple tire irons layin around. I was more conerned about balancing and making sure the tred is running in the right direction. Since I have the tire, the cost from the shop would be in mounting and balancing.

I know these tire cleaners and shiners make bike tires slick and therefore are a bad idea. What I was thinking is that it'd have time to soak in and dry up before I actualy use them. Looks like there is either no need to treat the tire, or no such process.

Looks like ym best option may be to put the tirer on the bike and ride the outer part off on the asphalt and get to some fresher rubber underneath.

Like I said, it doenst look bad, looks better than the dry and cracked and nearly bald tire I already have on there.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 02:14 PM
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There'll also be a date code on the tire - baseline is you don't want to run a tire older than 5 years old.

There'll be a dot number on the tire - There should be 4 numbers at the end (assuming the tire is newer than 2000). 0900 would indicate the 9th week of 2000, 2304 would indicate the 23rd week of 2004, etc.

If the tire was manufactured in 99, etc the code will be a 3 digit code - 159 would be 15th week of 1999, 444 would be the 44th week of 1994, etc.

Curtis - Albany Oregon.
Currently receiving therapy from "Doc" - My 1985 VN700.

Daily rider in NorthWET Oregon.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn750joe View Post
I think I have a couple tire irons layin around. I was more conerned about balancing and making sure the tred is running in the right direction. Since I have the tire, the cost from the shop would be in mounting and balancing.
There's usually a paint dot on the tire sidewall that should be lined up with the wheel's valve stem. This get's the tire somewhat close to balanced, but by no means perfect.
Also, if the tread is directional, there should be an arrow on it pointing in the drive direction.


AKA: Tim & 'The Adventure Cycle' VROC #24567, NEVROC, SteelCity VROC


"When life throws you curves,
Aim for the apex."

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Hyper, that's good stuff.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 07:20 PM
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And if ya do change the tire yourself, be sure to use plenty of some kind of lube. I used to use a mix of Murphy's Oil Soap and water. Or ya could just use regular dish soap. For a mix, ya only need a couple tablespoons per cup of water.
Lube helps as much for taking the tire off as putting it on.
I found some actual tire change lube at a fleamarket that's slippery as snot, but dries kinda tacky to help seal the bead.

Once the tire is off the wheel, be sure to clean (wire brush) the bead area of the wheel. A leak on a newly installed tire is usually from a bad seal at the bead.

And, if the tire on the bike now is as bad as it sounds, it'd probably be better to use the tire ya just got from your buddy, but keep a real good eye on it for the first hundred miles or so, and plan on getting a NEW one sooner rather than later.
Just don't use ANY type of 'conditioner'!
Once a tire starts to go bad, it's bad, ain't no fixin' it good enough to trust it when ya only have two of them under ya.
Atleast that's how I feel about tires on a bike. They're what hold ya to the ground, and gravity really likes motorcycles!!

Ride safe


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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2007, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis97322 View Post
Keep armorall the HELL AWAY from the bike!!! It'll make things very slippery - not good on a bike.

Harbor freight has a tire changer (and motorcycle rim adapter) I've had my eyes on - if you're going to do it yourself, get the right tools - it'll cost what about 4 changes of tires would cost - but from there on out changes are free...
Are you saying Armorall shouldn't even be put on the sidewalls?

86' Vulcan, Stock & Lovin it!
Stator, R/R, splines lubed, ACCT's repl. at 25,200
Just turned 29,000 mi.

95' Vulcan, all stock, 9,700 mi.

John Spangler
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