Fork oil level - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2014, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Fork oil level

I pulled the top cap of my forks to measure the fluid. I don't feel like I"m getting much dampening. One side was 15.5" from the top the other side oil was 14.75" from the top.

1) Is that low? My book shows a measurement of 8"-9" but its not clear if its taken from the top

2) THe caps were really rusted. I soaked them in PB Blast before removing them. The left side was very difficult to dig out even with the ring removed. Then getting it back in was difficult due to the rust around the ring. My caps don't have the air shrader that some do. Can I replace the cap with the kind that has the air to get more adjustment??

3) I"m thinking about just draining the forks on the bike and then pumping the bike up and down on the wheel to push out the oil. It seems like it should be possible to do this without removing the wheel. Does this sound reasonable?

-Robert
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2014, 09:55 PM
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Your oil level should be 9" (without the spring in taking up volume) down measured from the top of the fork tube.

I don't know about the air nipples, my dirt bike had them, but none of my road bikes.

Not sure if you would be able to pump all the oil out without removing the fork, which isn't difficult to do.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2014, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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If I take it apart maybe I should rebuild it. Are these the right springs if I want to go progressive?

Progressive Suspension 11-1145 18" Fork Spring
http://amzn.com/B000GTZI9I

-Robert
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-08-2014, 11:14 PM
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http://www.bikebandit.com/progressiv...rings?m=150021

I would just disassemble the forks, replace the seals and clean all the parts the best you can. Also checking for any dry rot in the dust boots.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Looking at various directions they tend to recommend removing the lower Alan screw and taking the lower part apart. But from what i can tell this is unnecessary to just change the oil and seal. In fact the seal may be accessible just by leaving the inner tube on the bike and yanking in the outer tube.

Does that sound right?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertGary1 View Post
Looking at various directions they tend to recommend removing the lower Alan screw and taking the lower part apart. But from what i can tell this is unnecessary to just change the oil and seal. In fact the seal may be accessible just by leaving the inner tube on the bike and yanking in the outer tube.

Does that sound right?
It is unnecessary if your just changing oil but needs to be removed to replace seal.

Hope this helps..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-Nk...e_gdata_player


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Can I replace the cap with the kind that has the air to get more adjustment??
I dont think the centers on the non air are removable....you could get a pair of used air caps, but with progressives, shouldnt really need it....

http://www.cmsnl.com/products/valve-air_161261043/



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I dont think the centers on the non air are removable....you could get a pair of used air caps, but with progressives, shouldnt really need it....

http://www.cmsnl.com/products/valve-air_161261043/
Do you recommend the progressive???
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014, 10:09 PM
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OH YES !...especially if you have a lil weight on ya....I kept my airs because of my super heavy 1968 fiberglass fairing...but honestly, progressive spring are WELL worth it....easy install too !



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