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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Front Brakes

First, I wanted to thank everyone for their help in trying to figure out what exactly was wrong with my front brakes.

Second, well after 15+ hours of leaning over the brakes to find out what is going on I figured it out. It was a stupid pinhole in the master cylinder that was clogged. The return hole that I didn't know what their was clogged close. I went to a used parts place and got a new (used) one for $60, pretty good deal. I opened up the top cap and realized that there is supposed to be two small holes in bottom, not one! So I cleaned out the new one really well, took out the old one and bleed the brakes. 250 miles and no pressure build up. But......it appears as though the pads are riding against the rotor, I know there supposed to a little bit, but their riding on it enough to heat up the rotor a bit when I ride. Is this normal? Should it be like this? I don't want to waste my gas if the pads on the rotors are slowing my bike down. I mean the bike coasts, but not as good as some of my other bikes. But I've never ridden a V-Twin, Shaft before either. Is this normal? How far can you coast? I just want to make sure nothing else is going to go wrong with the brakes.

Thanks again guys and girls!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 05:59 PM
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It's easy to tell. Put it up on the centerstand and have someone sit on the seat and lean back, so the bike rests on the rear tire. Turn the front wheel and see that it spins pretty freely. It's gona rub agains the pads a little, and you will hear some light rubbing noise, but you should be able to rotate the wheel pretty easily. As far as coasting, if you have the clutch in and are coasting, the bike should coast pretty good for a light bike. Obviously, a heavier bike would coast farther, etc. But if you are talking about decelerating with the bike in gear, as in, rolling off the throttle with the clutch engaged, yes, the bike will slow much quicker, or "engine brake" pretty strong. It seems to slow with engine braking much faster than my KZ1000 did. Hope this helps!

Fergy
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah, I have noticed that in gear, off the throttle deceleration is very quick. I restored a '77 Suzuki GS750 and the thing seemed to coast forever, even in gear. So I guess I'm just not used to it yet. Do your front rotors heat up though? They get quite hot if I ride for awhile and stop to feel them. It worries me that something else is wrong besides the master cylinder. Thanks!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyger View Post
Yeah, I have noticed that in gear, off the throttle deceleration is very quick. I restored a '77 Suzuki GS750 and the thing seemed to coast forever, even in gear. So I guess I'm just not used to it yet. Do your front rotors heat up though? They get quite hot if I ride for awhile and stop to feel them. It worries me that something else is wrong besides the master cylinder. Thanks!
Rotors should get hot, constant friction there, brake on or off.

Glad you found the problem.

Jon

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 07:24 PM
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Brakes

Hi Tyger I have been following your problem with interest both here and on the Yahoo site. It really does pay to know that you can find help from other knowledgable people. I really had no idea about the small hole that was a bleedback but I do remember that it was brought up on the Yahoo site. congratulations on finding the problem those kind of things can make you crazy. Keep the shiny side up Jim
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 09:37 PM
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Way to go, Tyger! What is that saying that DMAG has come up on the home page? "Keep looking around; there's always something that you missed."

Nice work!

C
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys! Your support made me sit out there during the really nice days wondering why I have a bike that runs awesome but no front brakes. I knew there had to be something that was wrong, something small and stupid. Low and behold it was a pin hole, literally. So your guys and girls rotors get hot also? So there is nothing odd about that? I had my girlfriend sit on the bike, while on the stand, and lean back bringing the front tire off the ground. It spun pretty nicely, but had the stupid pad dragging sound. So if I'm getting a good "free spin" in the wheel then all is good? If so, how many revolutions should I be getting. With a "normal pressure" spin I might get 2 revolutions. Good or bad? Thanks again for the support. It's nice to know people are out there that really care.

Last edited by Tyger; 06-26-2007 at 10:47 PM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 05:16 PM
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Tyger, that sounds about right, although I never counted the revs. But yeah, it makes that typical disc brake swishing sound when you spin the wheel. I never thought to touch my rotor after a ride, but I'm just going to save myself the pain and expect that it's hot! After watching NASCAR a couple times (not a big racing fan, but like to see the technology they talk about during races) and seeing the rotors glow orange, I'd say ours are going to be a little hot to the touch just from spinning with a little friction.

Fergy
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2002 VN1500 Classic
Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod
Rusty Tank Cleaning!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Alright, good, well not so good, but it works. I'm glad that I got it all figured out. Thanks again for all of the help. I think this weekend I am going to do the R/R relocate and spline lube with your helpful directions Fergy. Both seem pretty easy and both should be done. My question about the R/R relocate is what did you use for the metal piece to connect the u-bolt and the R/R together? I don't really have any scrap metal lying around. Any ideas?
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