Checking fork oil - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Checking fork oil

Is it necessary to remove the front wheel just to see if the forks actually still have oil in them? How about to just change the oil?

-Robert
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 07:11 AM
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https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1118

Here is a link from the Vulcan Verses.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. So I have no idea if my forks leak. I don't see oil leaking but it's possible it leaked out before I got the bike. So maybe I should just try changing the oil and worry about leaks if it leaks then? Otherwise is there an easy way to determine if there is any oil in there now? The forks are totally soft.

-Robert
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-31-2013, 06:02 PM
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There is a small drain screw at near the bottom of each fork on the side. Just unscrew it (should be a Phillips head) and if no oil comes out....you have no oil.

No need to remove the wheel or even raise the front end.

You can change the oil without removing the wheel too.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much. So, assuming there is fluid in there and I just want to change it; what should I plan to have on hand? I don't like to get 1/2 way through and realize I need something else. I see there is a list of stuff to have in the Versus but its assuming a seal replacement.

I assume I need fork oil. Probably 15w since I"m a big guy?
I assume I'll need some sort of tool to measure the new fluid when I pour it in(a graduated cylinder, just a measuring cup, a ruler)??

Once I remove the top cap and the snap ring below it, does the new fluid just get poured in?

-Robert
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 06:10 PM
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Roach measured and poured, then used a tape measure to check the level (with the spring removed) Also, pump the fork a few times to get the air out before measuring.

here's his video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-NklWACrzs

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 03:18 PM
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^ X2. I did the same with mine. You need the forks fully extended when you measure, so you're going to want to support the bike's weight. You should do it to take the top cap & retaining ring off. I used a bar clamp for that part. Worked pretty slick. Click image for larger version

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 03:30 PM
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Dang, now I have a use for one of those clamps and I'll end up buying one!

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__________________________________________________ ____________
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 03:49 PM
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They're not expensive & I've used them for a lot of weird things.

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Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
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Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
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Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
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F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2014, 05:56 PM
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I think there is a write up in the verses by me on installmg Progressive Fork Springs.....which if you are not changing springs still works for just changing the fork oil. I didn't use a clamp to hold the spring plug down, I used a human. (Offer anyone free beer and its amazing how helpful they can be. )

If you have help you don't need to remove the front wheel. There is a tip in there about using ziplock bags to drain the fork oil. I just measured the oil in a Pyrex measuring cup.
The photos from my write up are in my flickr link below under "Forks"

I'd go with 10w oil if you're keeping the stock springs. (I strongly suggest replacing them with the Progressive units)

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Last edited by Knifemaker; 01-03-2014 at 06:03 PM.
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