Front Brakes Locking up. - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Question Front Brakes Locking up.

I am new to the forms but have been reading here for a while. I have a 93' 750 and have only had it for about a month. It is my first bike and I am a newish rider. My dad has a 00' 750 and from riding his I fell in love with the VN750s. I rode it for a few days and had no problems out of it until I rode it from Jax FL. to Jesup Ga.

I was almost where I was trying to go when I stopped for gas. When I went to start it again the Batt was dead and I had to go to the AutoZone next door and buy a new Batt. Here it is a few weeks laster and the batt will not stay charged. i hook it it up to the charger and it will start up just fine. After a while of riding around it will have trouble starting up and then just not start up at all. I have read on here a lot about this issue and I believe I have narrowed it down to the R/R or the Stator. I will do my best to test it and see which one this weekend and see what I need to buy for it.

Also, the same time as all this started. When I went to pull out of the AutoZone I was on my way and could not get any power and started to smell a burning. I started to pull over and realized my front brakes were completely locked up. The bike stalled on me in the turning lane and a guy had to help me move it off the road and it was a pain because the front tire would not move at all. I let it set in a gas station parking lot a while then suddenly the brakes were just fine. They stay good for a little while but after a few uses they lock up again and the only way I get them to free up is to simply wait or bleed them.

This is what has me stumped over the battery issue. I have read up on the issue but have not been able to get a real answer on what needs to be done. I took the master cylinder off the bike and cleaned it with a brake cleaner and then I flushed them out and ran all new brake fluid through the lines. So, with all new fluid in the lines it still locks up on me. They unlock immediately after bleed the brakes. How do I know if i need to focus on the MC, the lines, or the Calipers? the brake pads themselves look brand new.

Any suggestions or comments to help would be greatly appreciated. I am stationed at Fort Stewart and I live a good 30 minutes away and need this bike to by my daily commuter.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 11:48 PM
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I would guess the main brake hose is collapsing internally and needs replaced. The hose collapses inside and holds pressure, but you can't tell by looking.

For the charging system, just go through the steps for testing and you'll know exactly what it needs.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 12:00 AM
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Yep, sounds like two different and unrelated problems, Stator or rectifier problem (not charging) and brake problem, maybe collapsed brake line but could be that the calipers have rings of old deposits holding the piston out so they may need to be rebuilt/ honed out.

I'm no expert on these bikes but it sounds like your battery isn't getting a charge.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoolAmI View Post
Yep, sounds like two different and unrelated problems, Stator or rectifier problem (not charging) and brake problem, maybe collapsed brake line but could be that the calipers have rings of old deposits holding the piston out so they may need to be rebuilt/ honed out.

I'm no expert on these bikes but it sounds like your battery isn't getting a charge.
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.... & absolutely agree w/ Spockster.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 11:45 AM
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First, start a thread in the electrical section for the stator print off THIS guide and fill it out then post the results in that thread (I will be looking for it)... keep the test results in that format and be as persice as I have been in writing it. I have had people in the past stop at one test because the single test failed, but with out the rest of the picture they were chasing electrical ghosts.

on to the brakes:
have you opened up the master cylinder to see if there is junk in the bottom of the reservoir? If there isn't any debris in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, then I would do as others have mentioned and try a new set of lines, while the lines are off, look at the seals in the calipers and make sure the caliper pistons aren't pitted, it would also be a good time to look at the master cylinder to make sure that the internal seals are good, and there isn't any pitting in there as well.

get a service manual. HERE is a free one.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Thanks a lot. I just moved into a new house and starting work at a new army installation so it may be a few days before I have the information to you.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Also, just noticed that the paper says to set the OHMS to 100 but my multimeters lowest setting is 200. Is this going to be a problem?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VulcanMan86 View Post
Also, just noticed that the paper says to set the OHMS to 100 but my multimeters lowest setting is 200. Is this going to be a problem?
Not likely... those measurements will obviously < 100 ohms, should not be a problem.


'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
Replaced ALL Cables . Kuryakyn LED Voltmeter
SilverStar Ultra 9003/HB2 H4 Headlamp, Jardine Fwd Controls,
Iridiums DPR7EIX-9 & Wires, Tuxedo Mod, Coil Mod, P/U Sensor Mod, Fork Seals,
Splines Lubed - 11/4/2012 - MF AGM Battery
Additional Flashing LED Brake Light on Trunk
Dampers went out @ 13+K !
After TOC MCCT's..... so amazingly quiet I discovered a rattling heat shield on my stock exhaust !
...have a vulcan good day!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 10:35 PM
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I would try to clean the pistons on the calipers first.take off the boot around the piston(after removing the caliper)then put a c clamp so the caliper can't overextend itself and then press on the brake so the piston moves out a little bit.then clean the corrosion and crud with awire brush and some wd40.crank the c clamp back in to compress the piston and then repeat a few times .have to do this on my Goldwing every tine she sits for a while

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-18-2013, 04:50 AM
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The Vulcan 750 is well known for charging issues. Tons of information about it on here. Strangely, I have had 2 Vulcan 750s, bought new, with super high mileage, and have never had a charging problem.

As for the brakes, there are 2 main probabilities. Either the calipers/pistons are all gunked up and sticking, or the return passage in the master cylinder is plugged up, and not releasing pressure.

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