I must be dumb.... - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Wheels, Suspension and Brakes
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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I must be dumb....

I have the front tire off for replacement and I ordered the front brakes for tomorrow. However, the Clymer's manual says to pull the pads out. I apparently and dumb because I can't figure it out...can someone help? I really would like to be on the road tomorrow after work.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 01:40 PM
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I have the front tire off for replacement and I ordered the front brakes for tomorrow. However, the Clymer's manual says to pull the pads out. I apparently and dumb because I can't figure it out...can someone help? I really would like to be on the road tomorrow after work.
The small (inside pad) should just pop right out; to get out the larger (outside) pad, you'll need to compress the piston. I found that I couldn't compress it fully by hand, and used a c-clamp to get full retraction. Then the outside pad just popped off.

C
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey Cindy, thanks for such a quick response. I'm havin' a hard time with the larger one too....what did you do with the "C" clamp? What would happen if I disconnected the lines to take the caliper to the shop? I can't seem to get this by hand...what's the magic touch? Thanks a bunch
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 04:15 PM
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Open the bleeder fitting and then push the piston in. You should probably bleed the system anyway.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 05:09 PM
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also the larger pad has 2 holes on either side you have to pry it over the 2 studs at an angle. it can be a bit tricky but remember if it can go in or on in can come out or over!!!!
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyMike View Post
Hey Cindy, thanks for such a quick response. I'm havin' a hard time with the larger one too....what did you do with the "C" clamp? What would happen if I disconnected the lines to take the caliper to the shop? I can't seem to get this by hand...what's the magic touch? Thanks a bunch
I just cleaned up six calipers (seem to have developed a couple spare sets in the Orleans rebuild process), but all were off the bike at the time. As Artman said, you should open the bleeder valve to do this; and if you pull the hoses, you'll want to bleed the whole brake line again. If you pull the caliper off the fork (two bolts), use the c-clamp - soft side (if your clamp has one) against the piston, other end around the back of the piston. Just tighten down the clamp until the piston fully retracts. Then the pad should just slip off those two posts. If you have trouble, holler and I'll take pics of the process (four calipers are just sitting around waiting for a photo opp).

C
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2007, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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So I need to grab some 1/16th in. clear tubing, put it on the bleeder, open the bleeder and then squeeze the piston? I'm sorry guys this is my first time doing this and I can't thank you enough for your patience. :-D
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2007, 09:35 AM
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Yes, some brake fluid will come out and you do not want that to get on anything, will stain paint, aluminum, etc. Put the end of the tubing in a small jar to catch what comes out.

You should get very little as the small amount you will compress the piston shoudn't displace much fluid, but just to be safe....

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2007, 09:41 AM
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So I need to grab some 1/16th in. clear tubing, put it on the bleeder, open the bleeder and then squeeze the piston? I'm sorry guys this is my first time doing this and I can't thank you enough for your patience. :-D
That's it, although I'm thinking my bleed hose was 3/16ths... did I post something before? Geez, it feels like a Monday.

I may have this explanation kinda wrong, but here goes my understanding of how these brakes work. These are hydraulic brakes, in that pressure in the lines from the brake fluid works the piston. That is, there's brake fluid behind the piston (not the front pad, but the actual piston) - when you depress the brake lever, it increases the hydraulic pressure, which exerts pressure on the piston, which then moves out (towards the rotor) and applies the brake-age. Release the brake lever, reduce the pressure, the piston retracts.

So, when you are going to remove the pad and need to retract the piston to do this, you want to release the pressure that built up behind the piston mechanism. One way to do this is by opening the bleed valve. When you c-clamp the piston, then as it retracts, it will push brake fluid out of the bleed valve (release of pressure).

Put one end of the hose over the bleed valve nice and tightly; put the other end of the hose into some kind of container - old water bottle, milk jug, something. Brake fluid is apparently very caustic so you don't want to get it on stuff. Open the bleed valve by using a 10mm combo wrench - CCW just a little and you can release just a little of the pressure. When you depress the c-clamp, it'll retract the piston and more fluid will ooze out. Once you've got the pad off, pull the hose off the bleed valve and tighten her down.

No apologies for lack of experience allowed on the Forum! Not a one of us would be here if we hadn't started out lost somewhere along the line.

C
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-09-2007, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cindy. I don't remember who said 1/16th but if you say 3/16ths I'll take your word for it. Sounds like you know what you're doing. ;-) I have to run out and get the tubing and a jug of sorts while I wait for the tires to come back. Now only if I could convince you to come to PA and pull my carbs for me....I'll let ya know how it goes.
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