Fork Oil - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
Wheels, Suspension and Brakes
Everything to do with wheels, tires,
suspension, forks and brakes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
"ya can't live forever"
 
artman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Jupiter, Florida
Posts: 321
iTrader: (4)
 
Fork Oil

Anyone have an easier method of changing the fork oil? Clymers seems to make a major project out of it.
artman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 12:54 PM
Member
 
Mushu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mexico City
Posts: 90
iTrader: (0)
 
Send a message via MSN to Mushu
I haven't seen what Clymers procedure is but it's very simple (specially if you a have an extra pair of hands for one step). In a nutshell the procedure is:

1) Remove the top caps from the forks, with a 10 mm long socket and an extension push down the cap, this will reveal a small circlip. Remove it and slowly release the cap (don't let go or the spring will shoot up the cap). Do this on the other leg.

2)Remove the spacer, small washer and spring from the fork legs. Check that they good and not deformed.

3) Remove drain bolt, place a oil pan near and pump the legs up and down slowly so not to drip too much oil out.

4) Refill with fork oil (320 ml per leg aprox.), replace the spring, the washer and the spacer in the fork legs (be careful with the washer as it tends to flop a little bit inside the fork leg make sure is flat against the spring)

5) Measure the level of the oil with the fork leg compressed to the top of the fork leg. It should be 230 mm +/- 10mm. A bit higher level gets you a bit harder damping but don't stray too far from this level.

6)For reassembly just put a car jack under the engine to extend the fork legs. Place the cap over the spacer, push down and have someone else replace the circlip on the fork leg. Do the other one...

This is not to hard. If you have someone help you with the circlip on the fork legs it cuts down about 30 minutes of bad language. You can do this in about 1 hour...

Hope this helps

93 VN750
R/R Relocation to the front
Pirelli MT66 Tires soon to be mounted (only after 14 years...)
Mushu is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 01:02 PM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
93VN750's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 1,766
iTrader: (2)
 
Send a message via Skype™ to 93VN750
Great write up Mushu!

If you don't have the extra pair of hands, I use a small pry bar with a towel over it. Put the end of the pry bar under the handle bar (with towel on it to protect the handlebar). Then pressing down on the pry bar (with same socket as Mushu's write up), I can hold down the spring tension with one hand and remove the spring clip with the other. Same to install.

I stirpped my forks down and replaced the seals so I just used a measuring cup to add the right amount of fork oil. Believe you can only do this if the fork is truely void of all old oil.

Fork oil weight is determined by rider weight. Comes in I believe 5, 10, and 15 W weights, pick the one for your normal load weight.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
93VN750 is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 01:10 PM
85 VN 700
 
curtis97322's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 1,033
iTrader: (4)
 
I just used a 3/8 socket wrench with a socket on it as the "pry bar" that 93VN750 describes (rust spots allready on handlebars so didn't worry about a towel).

Would have been nice to have an extra set of hands - but the wife was allready mad at me for spending time with my "other" girl ;-)

Curtis - Albany Oregon.
Currently receiving therapy from "Doc" - My 1985 VN700.

Daily rider in NorthWET Oregon.
Ammo Can Saddlebags
Shaved and Rejetted. Coastered. Degoated w/ Hardley pipes.

Bought Feb 2007 with 12K miles.
Hit the 24k mile July 2008

http://photobucket.com/curtis97322
curtis97322 is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2007, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
"ya can't live forever"
 
artman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Jupiter, Florida
Posts: 321
iTrader: (4)
 
Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot tonite.
artman is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2007, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
"ya can't live forever"
 
artman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Jupiter, Florida
Posts: 321
iTrader: (4)
 
Alright, very good input. Did the oil change and it took only 40 minutes start to finish. The prybar technique was very easy to do. Thanks again.
artman is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 03:19 PM
Senior Member
 
Jace Bror's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Prior Lake (MPLS area), MN
Posts: 950
iTrader: (1)
 
OK So I just changed the oil in the rear shocks. And holy s what a difference. Now I want to do the front. Couldn't I just remove the drain cap at the bottom and pump out the oil, and then pump in new oil?

Sold 750 (9-09)
Bought '07 900 Classic "LT" (6-09)
Mustand Seat (6-09)
Balanced Carbs (4-09)
Adjusted Mix Screws (4-09)
Drilled Baffles 8 holes (4-09)
R/R Relocated (3-09)
Splines Lubed (3-09)
Metzelers ME880 170/80 in back 100/90 in front (3-09)
Painted flat blak (3-09)
Kuri grips (8-08)
Kuri Longhorn pegs (8-08)
Iridium Plugs (8-08)
Highway bar/ engine guard(FS)
Some saddlebags no idea which ones
Facebook group Vulcan 750 Riders (Invite Only Group)
Facebook ID Eli Gaffke
Jace Bror is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 03:29 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 45
iTrader: (0)
 
I'v done the procedure this way on the Vulcan and on the TDM 850

http://www.wilbers.de/download/montageanleitung_rsu.pdf

The air gap as per Clymer's page 12-5 is 215 mm. There could be a difference if progressive fork spings were obstructed. E.G. 150 - 160 mm.
T.o.m is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 08:23 AM
Senior Member
 
skalding's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 409
iTrader: (4)
 
Jace - what happened with the change? Did you change oil weights? Add/not add air? Inquiring minds with ****ty shocks want to know.

Scheherazade
'86 VN750
MF Battery, Iridium Plugs, RR relocated, Voltmeter, 170/80/15 Kenda Kruz rear tire, DIY Samsonite hard bags, DIY shaved seat with Beaded seat pad ('cause that's how I roll) and the dreaded STATOR CHANGE.

Shining Black Bess '86 VN750, retired for parts after a fried stator and being knocked (kee-runch) in her parking spot.
skalding is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 08:29 AM
Members who have donated towards server costs
 
750Doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 2,850
iTrader: (10)
   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace Bror View Post
OK So I just changed the oil in the rear shocks. And holy s what a difference. Now I want to do the front. Couldn't I just remove the drain cap at the bottom and pump out the oil, and then pump in new oil?
Remove the drain plug at the bottom to let the oil out, then up top either press in the air valve, pull the stem out like on a tire valve, or remove the top cap. Otherwise the vacuum will hold the fluid in and not let it drain. If you choose pulling the valve stem or cap, don't forget to press the valve stem first to relieve any air pressure or you'll get a face full of fluid.

There are a few recent threads about fluid and/or seal changes, as well as in the Verses is a write up on changing the fluid without removing the tubes or wheel. (I don't remember who wrote it)
750Doug is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Once registered, your User Name"cannot be changed". We can make exceptions within 7 days, but after that, it is set in stone.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome