Rusted screws in the master cylinder - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Rusted screws in the master cylinder

My 1995 vulcan has seen some weather before I bought it. I am trying to get it road worthy but have hit a few snags. The master cylinder being one of them. The top screws are rusted and seem to be rusted in. I have used wd-40 on them many times in the past 24 hours but they aren't budging. I am worried about stripping them out, but other then drilling them out, I have no idea on how to get them out. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 08:45 PM
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They make lef hand bits that grab ande remove stuck screws.
You will need to replace the screws after but then you know they are good.
http://tinyurl.com/ybbzng

Chad Falstad "Hawk"
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 09:31 PM
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You may want to try a manual impact driver. These use a hammer to supply the impact and can usually remove stubborn bolts without stripping them. They aren't expensive and I have used mine many times on stubborn bolts on the bike. The smaller rotor/stator cover comes to mind.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 10:04 PM
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Mine were the same way on Orleans. Unmoveable. I hit em with PB Blaster multiple times, and let them just soak in it. Then I used a philips haed screwdriver, and tapped gently on the screws themselves. Somtimes I tapped gently around the screws. Finally, I used a drill at low speed - the extra torque was enough to get 'em out. Took me about 2 weeks of blast, try, blast again, try some more before they finally released.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 10:35 PM
 
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I was going to suggest the PB Blaster as well. Heat around the bolts but not on the bolts sometimes helps by expanding the metal around the bolt. I would try the PB Blaster and a screw extractor (left handed) bit first.


Good luck.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2007, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal Fang View Post
My 1995 vulcan has seen some weather before I bought it. I am trying to get it road worthy but have hit a few snags. The master cylinder being one of them. The top screws are rusted and seem to be rusted in. I have used wd-40 on them many times in the past 24 hours but they aren't budging. I am worried about stripping them out, but other then drilling them out, I have no idea on how to get them out. Any suggestions?
They are farked... It's not the screws that are locked. It is the cover that is holding the screw in... Been there and done that two times already... Here is what I did...

Take a 1/4" drill bit. Start drilling the head on the screw enough to pop the head of the screw off. Repeat for the other screw. Once you get the master cylinder cover off, the screws will screw out with either your fingers or with a pair of plyers. DO NOT GET ANY SHAVINGS IN THE MASTER CYLINDER.

Don't replace them with the POS screws that Kawasaki sells. I went to Ace Hardware and purchased some stainless metric screws and they have not given me any trouble in 5 (yes, 5) years...


Evan Breyn ~ The Bulldog
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2006 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic FLHTCUI ~ The Big Black Bitch ~ 26,000 miles.
2002 Kawasaki Nomad 1500 ~ The Red Dog ~ Traded in at 22,000 miles of smiles (purchased new 10/05 / Traded in 6/12).
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 ~ Black Betty ~ 34,999.7 miles
VROC ~v~ 485
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2007, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question

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Originally Posted by bulldog485 View Post
Take a 1/4" drill bit. Start drilling the head on the screw enough to pop the head of the screw off. Repeat for the other screw. Once you get the master cylinder cover off, the screws will screw out with either your fingers or with a pair of plyers. DO NOT GET ANY SHAVINGS IN THE MASTER CYLINDER.
Great info Bulldog but I ran into a little snag. I drilled until the screw tops popped off and stopped right there but there isn't any screw sticking out to unscrew. Do I just continue to drill it out or am I better off using the screw extracter?

If the screw extracter, how do I hammer them in so I don't damage the master cylinder? (other then very carefully, lol, is there a special way to do it?) I have never used the screw extracters but seem relatively easy in theory anyways. Thanks!!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2007, 07:52 PM
 
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Normaly you drill a smaller diameter pilot hole not very deep to get the extractor bit started. Usually there are instructions with extractor bits. The ones I've used you set your drill to CCW rotation and start it into the screw at a certain point it will begin backing the screw out.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2007, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal Fang View Post
Great info Bulldog but I ran into a little snag. I drilled until the screw tops popped off and stopped right there but there isn't any screw sticking out to unscrew. Do I just continue to drill it out or am I better off using the screw extracter?

If the screw extracter, how do I hammer them in so I don't damage the master cylinder? (other then very carefully, lol, is there a special way to do it?) I have never used the screw extracters but seem relatively easy in theory anyways. Thanks!!

I drilled and popped both heads off the master cyliner cover. The I removed the cover leaving the screw stubbs sticking around 2-3mm out of the housing. I then was able to grab the screw stub with a set of plyers and remove them. I replaced them with stainless phillips screws of the same size as the OEM Kaw screws.


Evan Breyn ~ The Bulldog
http://www.bulldogsbike.com
2006 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic FLHTCUI ~ The Big Black Bitch ~ 26,000 miles.
2002 Kawasaki Nomad 1500 ~ The Red Dog ~ Traded in at 22,000 miles of smiles (purchased new 10/05 / Traded in 6/12).
1990 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 ~ Black Betty ~ 34,999.7 miles
VROC ~v~ 485
McHenry County Road Pirates
Chicagoland, IL
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2007, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog485 View Post
I drilled and popped both heads off the master cyliner cover. The I removed the cover leaving the screw stubbs sticking around 2-3mm out of the housing.
I did the same but when I removed the cover, the screw stems were flush with the master cylinder. I stopped as soon as the screw head popped off on each side. Oh well, guess I will have to use the screw extractors tomorrow. It was definetly worth a try and good practice. This is my first time trying to remove screws that are stuck and stripped out.
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