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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Replacing fork seals

I'm getting ready to swap springs for a set of progressives and need to replace the seals (one is leading a little).

I've read the inductions in the manual and watched the you tube vid, and both of them show the need to remove the damper.

My prob is that the PO ate up the head on one of the Allen bolts that hold the damper in place. My question for those in the know: does the damper have to come out to replace the seals?

If so, I'm faced with a few options for removing it:

1. Drive a larger Allen head socket into the bolt and try to remove it that way

2. Drill the head out of the Allen bolt and try to separate the remainder from the damper

3. Drill out the Allen bolt completely and chase the threads with a tap

Other options would include removing the head & replacing the damper ask the way up to replacing the whole darn thing

Any wisdom would be helpful..

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 11:22 AM
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If you can grab the Allen bolt with an easyout, you might get lucky.
It sure is a lot easier if its free to move. In fact, I think you would have to to change the seals.
Which by the way, if you haven't bought them yet, rusty rider here in ohio (Newark) sells a nice seal. I just used them recently. They have a double spring instead of the stock single. It's like a double seal in one & their price was very reasonable
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 11:50 AM
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...how 'bout driving in an appropriate size "Torks" 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive socket ?

'86 VN750 13,700 mi -Stock
-Purchased 2008 w/8800mi
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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I've got the easy out, Allen socket and torx sockets. Got an impact drive too. I am not sure about the easy out because the head is somewhat shallow and the thread lock on it. Definitely an option though.

The PO gave me a set of seals, new Allen bolts, copper washers and the retaining rings when I got it, so at least that's taken care of. I've just gotta get those dang bolts out...

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Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
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Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
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Paint
ACCT to MCCT
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 01:28 PM
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I've been lucky before with a small chisel on the inside of the socket head, bump it loose and spin it out. Depends on the position and how tight, but you have 6 or 8 sides to tap on. I'd have to look my forks over to see what you're talking about.

Will be getting into mine in the future, assuming I hang onto the bike. When I was trying to bottom out the forks by hand, I heard a clunking noise from one of the fork legs. Spring binding maybe?

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 05:08 PM
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If all you want is to replace the seals, You remove them both out the top. The first one comes off with just prying it off. The second inner seal has a keeper. once the keeper has been removed, you can use a dry wall screw to remove it. Screw the screw into the old seal and use a pair of pliers to pull the seal out. Be careful not to damage the shaft that slides against the seal.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
If all you want is to replace the seals, You remove them both out the top. The first one comes off with just prying it off. The second inner seal has a keeper. once the keeper has been removed, you can use a dry wall screw to remove it. Screw the screw into the old seal and use a pair of pliers to pull the seal out. Be careful not to damage the shaft that slides against the seal.
That's all I'm doing. I'll give it a try first.

Thanks!!




Mods
Voltmeter/clock/temperature gauge
HD Electra Glide Fairing
Earshave/Coastered/CA emissions - gone...
R/R relocated
Nightster seat
Tombstone taillight
Drag specialties turn signals relocated
Sportster progressive shocks... Dropped rear 1 1/2"
Progressive Fork Springs dropped front 1"
NGK plug wires and iridium plugs
Coil Relay Mod
Paint
ACCT to MCCT
Honda Rebel luggage rack
VN800 Handlebars & controls
Screamin Eagle mufflers
F&S Engine Guard & Kury highway pegs
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 06:44 PM
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You will have to remove the cap with the valve stem to add oil.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 10:54 PM
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You could try this brother.....

https://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19760



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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 01:44 AM
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Even though you should be able to change the seals without removing the allen bolt, I would still try to get the bolt out anyways.

If you are going to the trouble to change the springs, oil, and seals anyways, it only makes a more complete job to completely dissemble and clean out all the parts. (who knows when the last time this was done -if ever-)

Plus, next time you need to get in there and do the job again, it'll be a lot easier the next go around.

If the easy outs don't do the job of getting the bolt out, very carefully drilling the head out will allow you dissemble so that you can get the internals out. Then you should be able to easily remove the rest of the bolt with a pair of vice grips holding the damper in you hands.

but that's just my opinion.
I Wolfie's method posted above works pretty good.

......I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere then in any city on earth.

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