Swapped brake fluid-quick tip - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Swapped brake fluid-quick tip

Well I finally got around to changing the brake fluid and now I feel much better. The old stuff was brown as molasses, yuck!!!

Anyway after looking all over town for the right size tubing to attach to the brake bleed valve here's what I did. I discovered that 5/16 id is just barely too big, doesn't seal enough for my comfort to prevent leakage while bleeding. Then the 1/4 is just barely too small sooo I just barely heated up the end of the tube and popped it on the valve while it was still warm and vioala!

Okay so I'm proud of myself what can I say. I just thought I would share my solution to a somewhat aggravating situation. I read somewhere probably here, that tubing from an aquarium shop would work but none of the pet shop places here had it.

Just trying to contribute next on the list...replacing fork oil....then the mother of all things to date spline greasing (stop laughing all you expert wrenches, baby steps here )
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 04:49 PM
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Good work.

Fork oil change not too hard. Most difficult part is removing the top cap. I have a good trick when you're ready.

Splines aren't too hard, lots of good posting and write-ups on the site. Many of us have done it lots of times and be glad to support you.

Did you get a good, firm brake lever just by bleeding the lines? If not, tie the brake lever on with a piece of rope (or whatever) for 24 hours, do one more bleed and you're all set.

Jon

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 07:06 PM
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hey all of us 'expert' wrenches started right where u did. oil, splines plugs ect. we all slowly worked our way up to replacing our own stator....and tell u what, the bike feels different now that i have'bonded' with her (well hope thats it, cause if i forgot to tightnin a bolt i am gonna be pissed....)

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
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westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hizzo3 View Post
hey all of us 'expert' wrenches started right where u did. oil, splines plugs ect. we all slowly worked our way up to replacing our own stator....and tell u what, the bike feels different now that i have'bonded' with her (well hope thats it, cause if i forgot to tightnin a bolt i am gonna be pissed....)
I did not connect the coil for the rear cylinder when I put the engine back in after the stator change. Chased a carb problem for 3 days until I realized it was running on one cylinder!

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93VN750 View Post
I did not connect the coil for the rear cylinder when I put the engine back in after the stator change. Chased a carb problem for 3 days until I realized it was running on one cylinder!

Jon

your not alone, i had just loosly put the nuts on the driveshaft cover to the rear hub....went for a ride lost one nut and almost lost another.... which reminds me i need to go buy one more....

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm pretty sure I got a good firm lever. I just pumped out the old stuff as I was putting in the new stuff, did it till it was crystal clear then stopped.

So I guess what I did was more of a swap than a drain/replace/bleed. Who knows maybe just for the heck of it I'll try the rope trick just to be sure.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 07:18 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy750 View Post
Well I finally got around to changing the brake fluid and now I feel much better. The old stuff was brown as molasses, yuck!!!

Anyway after looking all over town for the right size tubing to attach to the brake bleed valve here's what I did. I discovered that 5/16 id is just barely too big, doesn't seal enough for my comfort to prevent leakage while bleeding. Then the 1/4 is just barely too small sooo I just barely heated up the end of the tube and popped it on the valve while it was still warm and vioala!

Okay so I'm proud of myself what can I say. I just thought I would share my solution to a somewhat aggravating situation. I read somewhere probably here, that tubing from an aquarium shop would work but none of the pet shop places here had it.

Just trying to contribute next on the list...replacing fork oil....then the mother of all things to date spline greasing (stop laughing all you expert wrenches, baby steps here )
How did you 'drain' the old fliud?
I am having trouble getting all of the air out of the system.
I tried using a large syeringe and tubing, and drwaing the fluid down into the syringe keeping the reservior full during the process. I could not get any hard brakes. I tried using the syringe and forcing fliud up from the brake cylinder into the resevior, but still no brakes.
I have good brake hoses and fittings and no leaks.
Any suggestions?
Bob
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choppbobby View Post
How did you 'drain' the old fliud?
I am having trouble getting all of the air out of the system.
I tried using a large syeringe and tubing, and drwaing the fluid down into the syringe keeping the reservior full during the process. I could not get any hard brakes. I tried using the syringe and forcing fliud up from the brake cylinder into the resevior, but still no brakes.
I have good brake hoses and fittings and no leaks.
Any suggestions?
Bob
Run new fluid in through the master cylinder until it runs out new from both calipers. The bleed a few times to remove the bulk of the air bubbles. Then tie the brake lever on with a piece of rope (or whatever) for 24 hours, do one more bleed and you're all set.

Jon

93VN750, under re-construction
vn750.com Member # 828

Rick's Stator and R/R
MF AGM Battery
Coastered
Degoated
Shaved & Jetted
Iridium's
MAC Tapered Staggered Pipes
Battery/Temp/Clock Gauge
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Dunlop D-404's
23,XXX miles and holding pending gasket change (underway!!!)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 10:35 PM
 
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Thanks for the reply.
I'll give it a go. Right now my bike is in many parts for maintenance and new tires. It will be a week or so before I do the brakes.
Bob
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-02-2007, 11:32 PM
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i bought a mighty vac.... i think it was 39.99. its a hand held vacum, i used it on my jeep and my ex's car... works wonders, havent used it on the bike yet

'04 Vn750
Currently Installed
nat'l cycle deflector shield
westco 12v30 MF, 30A/h w/ 350 CCA's w/ custom box
TOC stator cover w/ Frankenstator mod!
R/R relo

Soon to have (own or on order)
TOC ACCT's
Mez's 110-FRT 170/80-Rear
Custom rear fender and tail light
Givi hard bags w/ custom rear turn signals


Band Engineer/Webmaster for Josey Contreras Tejano Band
Hizzo3 is offline  
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