Bleeding Brakes - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Bleeding Brakes

Hey all. I was changing my brake fluid last week, and got to bleeding the system. After bleeding the MC then calipers, it was still spongy. I saw about tying the lever back overnight, so I tried that. Works like a charm. I now have brakes.

This is a great website. I love it. Thanks.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 04:25 PM
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Brakes are a good thing to have
Glad ya got them working.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 09:45 PM
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Jeff, I just bled mine a few weeks back and have noticed they don't have the grab they used to. I will try this trick but to be sure, I'm guessing squeeze firmly but not till it touches the grip and than tie in place? Does this mean there is an air bubble some place? Thanks.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 02:28 AM
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Air in your line could make the brakes seem like they're not grabbing like they should. It will usually make the brake lever feel 'squishy' also, as the fluid doesn't compress as easily as the air does.


The process I believe Jeff refers to is from the Vulcan Verses, and says.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Verses
This is something I learned a long time ago for bleeding the air out. Works like a charm as I've done it about a half-dozen times in the past 15 years or so... Did it on my VN750 when I first got it and haven't had to retouch the system until now when I need to change out the fluid... Bleeding hydraulic brakes via constant pressure: (works on cars, bikes, etc.) Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Make sure it is at the proper level. Pump the brake a few times until you get plenty of pressure. If you can't get constant pressure, there may be a leak somewhere in the system. Push or pull the brake lever as tight as you can. Somehow secure it there. If in a car, use a broomstick on the seat, etc. If on a bike, use some type of non-stretching rope or twine. Make sure to cover anything that might be damaged like the seat material or the throttle material. If on a bike... Wrap the twine or rope or twine a few times and pull the brake lever tighter if you can. Wrap some more. The tighter the better. After wrapping around tie it off so it can't slip loose. Let it sit for around 12-14 hours - overnight if possible so you don't have any temptation to tinker with it. I'm not sure if the air escapes or dissolves into the fluid at high pressure over time, but it doesn't come back on cars and hasn't come back on the bike I did either. If your brake line lets go during the holdover period, it was a sign that you probably needed one anyway. Better to blow while standing still than on the exit ramp. However, I have never heard of this happening.
Don't forget.. we also have a write-up in Files > Maintenance Tips > Bleeding Brakes (Yahoo Board)


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I saw it the Vulcan Verses.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 10:46 AM
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After reading this suggestion, when I recently changed my brake fluid, I used a tie-wrap and just cinched that down on the lever to hold it in. It's a very easy way to compress the lever and keep it there. I keep a bag of different size tie-wraps in my garage (and in my saddle-bag on trips), definitely a handy thing to have around.

Steve in TX
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 02:55 PM
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i bought a mighty vac for bleeding the brakes on my jeep, cost like 30 bucks at pepboys. its a hand held vacum pump. i havnt done my bike yet, but i am sure that would work wonders

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